Non the second day at Milan Fashion Week, the February 22, 2024, the romantic army brought on stage by Miuccia and Raf Simons for the Prada 2024 fashion show steals the show. Emporio Armani’s poetic fashion show under the snow (in a Milan under the flood). And a good premiere for the debut of the new creative director of Moschino.
Here is a summary of everything we will remember from day 2 at Milan Fashion Week Autumn-Winter 2024/2025.
Prada’s romantic army
Fighting for love. Is there anything more poetic? They return in defense of fashion, the soldiers par excellence: Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons. The location is the terrarium set up in the Foundation, the same setting as the last men’s fashion show. Today, however, an army of women are following it at a fast pace: they wear agent hats and make sure to defend the concept of beauty even in this fashion week, with the Prada fashion show Instinctive Romance Autumn-Winter 2024/2025. More than policewomen, gendarmes with a taste of yesteryear (among them also Mariacarla Boscano, after a decade of absence from the brand’s fashion shows): the inspiration is given by the headgear, which reinterprets the helmet as the beret, and brings to mind old war films.
The secret of Prada? Questioning different eras, feelings and styles. The answer comes instinctively. Historical elements of heavy weight merge with light pieces, almost impalpable: the embroidered sheath dress floats over the standard boots, the double-breasted blazer covers the silk dress, the gunmetal jacquard sweaters rest on the sheer skirts in pastel shades, the color-block twin sets on the rigorous pencil skirts. The maximum of counterpoint arrives at the end of the fashion show, with a profusion of cute and unexpected elementssuch as bows, cut-outs, ruffles and fur edges. Romantic details and at the same time charming which elevate the most severe wardrobe, bringing a good dose of femininity. The ballet flats become pointed, the iconic bags are worn on the arm thanks to bracelet straps.
The dualism between the beginning and the end of the Prada 2024 fashion show is clear, the wardrobe appears to be split in two. But the warring factions end up making peace, in the name of beauty and love.
Max Mara, double personality
Writer and theater actress, dual personality, acute, elegant. The emancipated Colette she was one of the leading women of the early twentieth century, a symbol of the contradictions of Belle Époque. His wardrobe, hyper feminine on one side, masculine on the other – Colette often dressed as a man, transforming into her own alter ego, Chéri – it is the basis of that of the woman Max Mara for Autumn-Winter 2024/2025. So here comes a succession of extremely rigorous outings on the catwalk, with officer’s coats, pea coats and black shirts. Paired with tulip-shaped skirts, crystal-lined jumpsuits, cowl-neck sweaters and micro shorts. Thin belts flatter the waist, soft leather bags with stylized buckles complete the look, as do brogues borrowed from his shoe rack.
The trait d’union it’s in fabrics precious, which indifferently enhance the more casual pieces such as the evening ones: cashmere, camel and alpaca dress the new coats; flannel and tweed are placed on shirts, pajama sets and slip dresses. “Easy leggings”, wide trousers with pleats, woven knit dresses punctuate the catwalk. The inner life: the title of the show resonates programmatically. After all, what is more spiritual than concreteness?
Emporio Armani: Good morning, night
In a rain-soaked Milan Fashion Week 2024, the snow which falls gracefully on the models’ umbrellas at the end of the fashion show Emporio Armani appears like a godsend. The women who interpret the next Autumn-Winter collection are smiling and wearing stardust. Glows at night is the clear title of a line that brings a breath of beauty, joy and serenity, thanks to a mostly nocturnal wardrobebut dotted with lights.
The classics of the brand are all there: the cold but vibrant palette and the soft lines first and foremost, followed by the micro vests, the blouses with the bow, the loose coats, the balloon skirts, the maxi jewellery, the crystal clutches and the flat shoes. The protagonist is the whirlwind of evening dresses, covered with embroidery of stars, chains and rhinestonesto be worn in the name of good humor. Good morning, night.
The window on the world of Moschino
The past few months have not been exactly simple for the brand Franco Moschino. First Jeremy Scott’s farewell, then the sudden death of his successor Davide Renne. Look forward, and continue walking in the artist’s footsteps from whose creativity everything took shape: Adrian Appiolazathe creative director officially appointed only a month ago, reopens – as promised – that window onto the world opened by the founder in 1983. With a certain grace, clever references to the archives parade: the bouquet of flowers, the prints trompe-l’œil, lettering t-shirts, question marks, bow ties, pearls and maxi polka dots; brought back up to date thanks to some contemporary and very wearable looks.
In a world where lies seem to take over, the designer from Buenos Aires, born in 1972, respects the word given at the end of January. And this can only be a sign of good omen. Move forward in an authentic and natural way: perhaps wearing the yellow sweater on which the giga-smiley. Respecting the past and the present, with a tricolor as a top. And with your dog in tow.
Tom Ford, naked
English Peter Hawkings is the designer of Tom Ford for two seasons. And she seems to love Milan, considering that she has chosen not only to debut, but also to continue to show here. The look takes shape, while the idea remains that of the founder of the same name. Thanks especially to outerwear, protagonists of the fashion show: variations on the pea coat, the safari jacket, the eco-fur fur. At the center of the show, a wardrobe that is both liquid and luminous, dotted with sequins and metallic flashes in shades of naked for party girl micro dresses.
Follows the slew of exits in leather for him and for her, and the show ends by turning the spotlight on the old/new must-haves: the three-piece suit with vest, pinstripe or bright solid colour; but also cut-out or fishnet dresses. They will be the notes of the soundtrack of Basic Instict, but everything exudes sensuality. Natural.
From Giada to MM6 Maison Margiela
Not just the Prada, Moschino and Tom Ford 2024 fashion show. On day 2 of Milan Fashion Week, other names who are regulars at the Milanese fashion shows parade, such as Calcaterra And Jade. The Chinese brand led by Gabriele Colangelo brings the mosaics of Villa Giulia, in Rome, to the catwalk, translated into rigorous, sophisticated and expressive clothes. The octagonal cuts like weaving in the leather, the lines of the knitwear and jackets, the flourishing of jewels on the body: at the centre, the art of Made in Italy savoir-faire.
MM6the second line, the more casual one, dthe Maison Margiela, brings his counter-current attitude to Milan once again. An acidic, chemical taste pervades the catwalk, played on used-effect denim, transparent plastic glasses, latex boots. Also on the catwalk is the co-lab of shoes with amphibians Dr. Martens.
iO Donna © ALL RIGHTS RESERVED