Non the second day, between one fashion show and another of Milan Fashion Week in February 2023, it is Pradawith a curative fashion show that brings everyone together – especially Raf and Miuccia.
The enlightened woman of Max Marabut also the noble rebel of Moschino and the sexy champion of Blumarine. A day that celebrates the all-round character of femininity.
Prada beauty care
The dress as a cure. Miuccia Prada And Raf Simons join forces to create a wardrobe designed to enhance the body and spirit. Their palliatives are all there: on the one hand the austerity of the lady, on the other the luxuriant inspiration of the ex Jil Sander. The infallible method, based on mini, midi and tubular skirts, bourgeois sweaters, oversized suits, shirt dresses that recall classic white coats and down ensembles that warm up and look like beds of clouds. L’utilitarianism this time it is aimed at reviving body and spirit, and it becomes dualism: trait d’union, the flowera jasmine perfumed that inebriates the spaces of the Tower and blossoms in 3D format, skilfully embroidered, on pieces specifically designed to last all day, from morning to night.
Gigi Hadid at the Prada FW23/24 fashion show (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics).
Exemplary, the wedding dress, a symbol of beauty and love, which transforms into an original uniform. In the room – characterized by a mobile ceiling already seen in the men’s fashion show – the first and second surgeons swap roles with notable dexterity; among the illustrious patients, Gigi Hadid And Kendall Jenner. The operation, which closes “on the beautiful blue Danube” by Strauss borrowed from 2001 A Space OdysseyAnd decidedly successful.
Max Mara’s enlightened woman
The woman who inspires the collection of Max Mara Autumn-Winter 2023/2024 Émilie du Châtelet. A free spirit who has anticipated feminist issues since the eighteenth century and is not afraid to speak her mind, a unicum of those restrictive and at the same time enlightened times: it is no coincidence that the intellectual was the beloved of Voltaire, a man of science, a revolutionary. And often Émilie to be accepted in the cafes she dressed as a man. The Maison’s wardrobe looks right at him, an excursus between male and female cuts, with a touch of costume: the Newtonian precision of the packaging mixes with scholarly clothing. There is the rigorous overcoat and the notary bow in hair, the officer’s cape, the duke’s mantle. All transported into the modern era, with transparent turtlenecks, chunky boots, miniskirts and socks combined with moccasins.
A look by Max Mara FW23/24 (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics).
The color palette seals the camelocracy which gives the collection its name: an explosion of neutral which symbolizes the spirit, especially fluid in thought. «The only fault of a great man like Émilie is being born a woman» – said Voltaire: but in truth, it was precisely his character and his style that led to the change. Against all skepticism and a pinch of avant-garde romanticism.
Moschino’s noble rebel
A totally punk catwalk. Jeremy Scott for the Fall-Winter 2023/2024 show by Moschino he wears the crests of an original American prankster naked and raw on the catwalk, like The Offspring. The rebel message, however, passes through less leaders loud. Oversized spiked studs are placed on feminine suits and total black jacket-style mini-dresses; tulle or gathered skirts with aristocratic velvet details are worn with tops and fishnet stockings; crystal and stone brooches embellish crop tops and leather trousers.
Extra suggestion for the accessories, the Salvador Dalí-like surrealist vein that almost disappears under so much sound: the buttons seem to merge and alter in the same way as bodies and dangling watches, the peace symbol melts away on It Bags and the buckles of bags and boots, golden and glittering, are fancifully distorted.
Stella Maxwell walks the catwalk for Moschino FW23/24 (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics).
What enters your head is the base note, a melodic and catchy hardcore, interpreted by the nonconformists of the moment, almost hidden by their enormous hair: from Stella Maxwell to Dear Taylor.
Emporio Armani, a classic off the register
The person rather than the character. Giorgio Armani for the 2023 fashion show by Emporio Armani aims to remove the mask. The staging of the everyday, as in an Elizabethan theater, is borrowed through reality: on the catwalk, a rather urban eclecticism. And a basic irony: the sequined mini-dresses are equipped with ties, maxi flowers bloom on the dresses, the crop-top is covered with grosgrain frills and suspenders, the silk skirt takes on the appearance of a colorful balloon. Small bowler hats, lace-up clown boots and Harlequin bow collars make the wardrobe more fun, “Armanian” by definition thanks to the textured velvet suits, the micro jackets with carved shoulders and the amalgam of colours, a mix of white, black, gray with hints of magenta and iridescence.
A look by Emporio Armani FW23/24 (Spotlight Launchmetrics).
Classic, but off the register, for one collection that makes you smileas the blow-up of the model on the bottom suggests.
The sexy champion of Blumarine
A fiery B welcomes guests to the world Blumarine imagined by Nicola Brognano for Autumn-Winter 2023/2024. The protagonist, the flame that continues to burn, the woman imagined by the designer since 2020, the year of his arrival as creative director. To date, sexy and recognizable, anchored more to the 2000s than to heritage (the fashion house was founded by Anna Molinari in 1977). The designer, born in 1990, this season rather dusts off the heroic past of paladines of yesteryear like the legendary Giovanna D’Arco. L’medieval inspiration it is contained in the second-skin-effect wide-ribbed knit suits, in the armor-suits covered with buckles, in the cargo trousers and in the liquid dresses that mimic the effect of metal.
A detail of Blumarine FW23/24 (Photo: Getty Images).
A warrior who doesn’t give up on seducing, thanks to mesh-effect tunics and micro bralettes – and remaining in her own battlefield.
Gcds, cat eye
Giuliano Calza for the 2023 fashion show by gcds shows his truest affections to the public. Starting with his cat, Khitto, which inspires the Fall-Winter 2023/2024 collection. The set of the show, but also the individual pieces are seen through feline eyes: the landlord’s starched office uniform, the leathers and velvets of the sofas, the vivid and spongy touches of yellow that recall the bathroom rugs, in the form of furs and faux fur tops. The original point of view is sealed by the scenography and an irresistible themed handbag.
The GCDS cat bag (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics).
A cat that recalls Luna, Sailor Moon’s cat, but is inspired by the designer’s four-legged friend. Feline, on closer inspection, is also the wardrobe, where prints and logos this time leave room for enveloping silhouettes and short cuts that bare the… paws. The animalier motif becomes a structural rather than a decorative pattern and mixes with the tweed: a meow that does not disturb.
From Genny to Giada to MM6
Cats or… cats. Sara Cavazza for Genny instead look to Eva Kant, the female protagonist of the comic Diabolik. And on the catwalk vinyls, satin boots, sensual siren silhouettes are all the rage. Quite another inspiration for Jade, which returns to Milan in the spaces of its second home, the Braidense library. The brand designed by Gabriel Colangelo presents a collection that reflects light through patterns and surfaces. The verticality of the line is driven by a focus on materiality, with full and empty spaces of color with a degradé effect: purity, style and vigor.
A look by Giada FW23/24 (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics).
While MM6 Maison Margiela he plays at Cadavre exquis and expresses himself freely, in the wake of his inherent surrealism.
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