“Labbeauty is health. And health can be seen on the skin» explains the professor Antonino Di Pietro, president of Dermocosm, director of the Vita Cutis Dermoclinic Institute and founding president of Isplad. The epidermis rtells us who we are and how we are. It is a sensitive mirror capable of reflecting, on the surface, even the invisible. There are many open fronts in the cosmetic panorama, especially in terms of anti-aging, which investigate the skin in its most infinitesimal mechanisms with the aim of preserve its state of beauty, and therefore that of health, from the passing of time.
Guests at round table by Dermocosm, the scientific congress in the context of Milan Beauty Week, White Gianguido, Managing Director L’Oréal Dermatological Beauty Italia, Vittorio Garavelli, Country General Manager Shiseido Group Italy, Luigi CorviPresident of Cosmofarma, Stefano Fatelli, sole director of Cosmetics Italy.
Milan Beauty Week, skin at the centre, research and more
Active ingredients that are increasingly of interest, and in detail, to those who purchase cosmetics. Bidreams that are sometimes dreams, and seek answers in jars of cosmetic formulas. The result of science, in-depth, inevitably futuristic, rather than magic.
«The skin is the largest organ, subjected to accontinuous research to find solutions, cosmetic answers. Increasingly important percentages of the budgets of large cosmetic companies are invested in research and development, without which modern skincare would not exist” explains Fatelli of Cosmetica Italia.
Vittorio Garavelli raises with the example of Shiseido, a cosmetics group currently receiving a record number of awards for scientific innovation at the IFSCCthe International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists: «Let’s talk about intellectual skins: consumers are increasingly informed, they demand effectiveness, safety and ethics from the cosmetic brands they rely on. There technology is the tool to always look beyond: we boast beyond 1200 researchers in the world and constantly developing technologies to be one step ahead in the global scenario.
He is an example of this revolutionary technology applied to the development of the new product of the V lineital Perfection, LiftDefine Radiance Night Concentrate: a system of 4D visualization of the epidermis which allows us to study the transformation mechanisms from within and in a dynamic way. The existence of natural anti-gravity factors in the skin has been discovered, i.e the hair muscles, which form one dynamic belt natureLAnd in the epidermis. A scientific discovery transformed into a cosmetic formula with three long years of work, which opens up new approaches to skin aging.”
If the skin speaks for us
“About 80% of Italians declare they have skin or scalp problemsand that, for 71%, this has impacts on quality of life. Anyone who buys a cosmetic is clearly looking for an ally, help, at multiple levels of meaning» he adds White Gianguido, Managing Director L’Oréal Dermatological Beauty Italy.
Other interesting data: «There are as many as 600 million people in the world who resort to aesthetic medicine. Italy is second in the world for requests for non-invasive procedures for the body and others first for those dedicated to the face. It means that uOne in three Italians relies on aesthetic procedures. In this framework, the Skin care is looming as a psychological, anthropological and sociological phenomenonbefore being aesthetic.”
He adds Brothers of Cosmetica Italia: «On average in Italy 13 cosmetics are used per day. People have desire to dedicate time and resources to self-care. From this assumption was born the industrial wonder of the Italian economic sector which is beauty sector, which has a turnover of 36 billion a year and provides employment to over 400,000 people.”
«Working on the skin should be defined as a general health project» continues Bianco: «A system of integrated approach between the dermatological, cosmetic and medical aesthetic fieldswhich starts from companies and professionals and reaches the awareness of the person.”
Growing old yes, but well
«56% of people, when they have a skin problem, go to a doctor or dermatologist. The same not can’t be said when talking about aging: Everyone experiences aging in a very subjective way, but basically we divide into two factions.”
«There are those who do perceived as a pathologylike for example acne or other problems, to which wrinkles are assimilated and those who, on the contrary, have a more relaxed, holistic approach, embracing the concept of well aging, of acceptance of the passing of timedoing everything possible to make it happen in a better world” continues Bianco. Giving you all the tools to age well is the ultimate focus of modern cosmetics.”
Goes on Garavelli by Shiseido: «The segment of Anti-aging skincare is the growth leader on a global scale, drives around 5% of the market volume, catalyzing continuous requests and attention. The Cosmetic treatment is increasingly seen as an opportunity, not just cure but prevention. Working every day like Asia, we perceive that the trend has already been underway there for years. Now the culture of skin care is spreading in Europe too, taking advantage of its intrinsic characteristics, especially in pre-aging key».
Short-sighted, therefore, the desire to fight the passing of time, rather, manage it as best you can. And the cosmetic keys are all starting to appear.
Not just cosmetics. Beauty is a project
“There skincare it’s only one step of a set of virtuous behaviors which should include nutrition, habits of the individual, but also of the system. Starting from cosmetic companies, which must be responsible in terms of product quality and ethics, also passing through professionalism of industry experts, from dermatologists to pharmacists through to beauty workers. Taking care of communication about cosmetics is also very important, especially online, from the media to social media” continues Luigi Crows, President of Cosmofarma.
“In Shiseido, – continues Garavelli – we are focusing on new areas of study, from the camp of ingestible to nature-tech, that is, the technological optimization of natural resources for one truly green and sustainable cosmetics, as in the case of the brand Ule, arriving next year in Italy, born from a vertical agriculture project with a closed circuit irrigation system with minimal water waste and a very short chain.”
«The future is holistic, preventive, sustainable, personalized» adds Bianco. “There beauty is culture. And science must be increasingly accessible to the consumer to understand what he is buying and why, in his personal care project» closes Fatelli di Cosmetics Italy.
iO Donna © ALL RIGHTS RESERVED