The doors of the gastronomic Olympus have been opened wide this year, and never better said, because a couple have been the restaurants accepted in such an exclusive club of three Michelin stars: Atrio (Cáceres) and Kitchen Brothers Torres (Barcelona) have managed, after years of effort and excellence, to appear among the greatest of the 2023 guide, presented tonight in Toledo. Since the 2018 guide, two restaurants had not entered paradise at once (then they were Àbac -Barcelona- and Aponiente -El Puerto de Santa María, Cádiz-).
In the case of the twins Sergio and Javier Torres, they also contribute to turn Barcelona into the undisputed capital of good foodsince the Catalan city adds, with its own, three ‘tri-starred’ establishments. They were already at the top abac (Jordi Cruz) and lasarte (Martin Berasategui-Paolo Casagrande). San Sebastián has the trio Arzak, Martín Berasategui and Akelarre but the city does not reach Barcelona’s 38 stars, while Madrid reaches 36 and has only Diverxo as a ‘tri’ (who by the way has achieved one for Ravioxo). Therefore, a great taste in the mouth in the Catalan capital leaves the new red bible after a 2022 edition that had been stingy with Catalonia.
“Dream after every bite”
The inspectors of the guide thus justify the distinction to Kitchen Brothers Torreswho has starred in a long-distance race at an ever-increasing speed thanks to his commitment to the impressive venue on Carrer del Taquígraf Serra: “It makes us dream after each bitesince Sergio and Javier Torres have created a magic space where the gastronomic experiencewhich travels from coherence by the best seasonal productsexceeds the expectations of the diner to become a big show“.
For their part, they dedicate these words to Atrium: “Elegant and delicate proposal by chef Toño Pérez, who has given a return to the DNA of the local gastronomic traditionwith the Iberian pig as the main protagonist, to captivate our palate from passion, sincerity and technical excellence“. An acknowledgment that somewhat alleviated the pain suffered by the theft of dozens of jewels from his cellar, of incalculable value because some were unique; despite the arrest of the thieves, there is no trace of the bottles.
13 ‘tri-starred’
With the additions of Cocina Hermanos Torres and Atrio, Spain now has 13 ‘tri-starred’ restaurants: in addition to those mentioned: Àbac and Lasarte (Barcelona), El Celler de Can Roca (Girona), Arzak, Martín Berasategui and Akelarre (San Sebastián ), Azurmendi (Larrabetzu), Diverxo (Madrid), Quique Dacosta (Dénia), Aponiente (El Puerto de Santa María) and Cenador de Amós (Villaverde de Pontones, Cantabria).
Three new ‘bi’
In section two starsthere are three high. Deessaat the Mandarin Oriental Ritz in Madrid, which after achieving the first last year got the second for “reflecting the love for the Mediterranean that always exudes the elaborate and creative cuisine of master Quique Dacosta, executed by chef Guillermo Chávez”.
Pepe Vieirain the small village of Serpe, next to Raxó (Pontevedra), because “there the chef Xosé T. Cannas has known how to surround himself with professionals from all fields to create a truly unique space in the middle of the countryside, with marked avant-garde lines and with the sole purpose of exalting, as they themselves say, the flavors of… ‘the last cuisine of the world’!”.
Y Juan Carlos’ Corner, at the Royal Hideaway Corales Beach (Adeje, Tenerife), the Padrón brothers (Juan Carlos and Jonathan) “after reviewing the Canarian recipe book from a creative point of view, with premium products, very high levels of refinement and the ability to excite in various plates”. Now there are 41 Spanish ‘biestrellados’.
29 with a star
And what happens with those that are released with the first Michelin star? Well, there are many 29 neither more nor less, for “a great year”, as Michelin qualifies this edition of the guide thanks to “new establishments with numerous chefs who have reached professional maturity and young talents that have captivated us, from their personality and their good culinary work”. Above all, the youth of many of the distinguished chefs stands out, “who have taken a step forward to show all their possibilities”. Michelin also highlights the entry into the high gastronomy of vegan cuisine.
In the words of Gwendal Poullennec, international director of the Michelin guides, “the younger chefs take the front and embark on their own journeys, in many cases flying the flag of reinterpreted regional or fusion cuisine“.
In Barcelonathey get the first wound aleia, Eat, Mont Bar, Slow & Lowwhile Enigma recovers it after having closed due to the pandemic. That means that the particular pulse of stars between the Catalan city and Madrid has opted this time for the first: 38 to 36.
13 green stars
In section green starswith which the gastronomic bible distinguishes those establishments that “create experiences that combine gastronomic excellence with a remarkable commitment to eco-responsibility”, the novelties in Spain are 13: ambivium (Penafiel), Arrea! (Santa Cruz de Campezo), can cook (Saragossa), new house (Sant Martí Sarroca), Jew’s House (Santander), The Visco (Fuentesback), The Moles (Ulldecona), maskarada (Lekunberri), muxgo (The Gran Canarian palms), narbasu (Cherry), Oba- (Casas-Ibáñez), Sale Moncalvillo (Daroca de Rioja) and Zelai Txiki (Saint Sebastian).
Three special prizes
The Michelin Guide has also awarded three special prizes: Young Chef, Chef Mentor and Room Service.
Young Chef Award 2023: Christopher Munoz (ambivium, in Peñafiel). “It recognizes the work of chef Cristóbal Muñoz from Almeria, who at just 32 years of age splendidly runs the kitchens of the Ambivium restaurant (one Michelin star and one green star). Trained alongside prestigious chefs such as Francis Paniego, Dani García or Paco Pérez, this young chef seeks the perfect harmonization between the solid and the liquid part, proposing a creative and innovative cuisine that is capable of moving without forgetting our roots”.
Chef Mentor Award 2023: joan rock (El Celler de Can Roca, in Girona). “He receives this award in recognition of his work training different generations of cooks, since all those who have passed through his house have felt his immense love for the profession and, from closeness, have been able to learn both the most avant-garde techniques and the values dedication and sacrifice implicit in it”.
Room Service Award 2023: toni gerez (Castle Peralada, in Peralada). “This new award recognizes the splendid work of Toni Gerez at Castell Peralada (one star). He performs magnificently as a room manager and sommelier, functions that he borders on, although he stands out especially when he presents the wonderful cheese cart that goes by the tables, since he himself reveals the characteristics in the mouth of each one of them and, from the most absolute passion, he makes us partakers of his vast knowledge”.
Not everything has been smiles in Toledo. Also tears for loss of a star. It is the case of Estany Clar (Fences), Trivia (Basin), kabuki (Madrid) and Ulia viewpoint (San Sebastian), and water and salt (Santiago de Compostela) and eMe Be Garrote (San Sebastián) due to closure, and Cebo (Madrid) due to change of management.
The list of the new stars of the Michelin guide 2023 (in alphabetical order)
THREE STARS
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TWO STARS
Deessa (Madrid)
The Corner of Juan Carlos (Adeje, Tenerife)
Pepe Vieira (Serpe, Pontevedra)
A STAR
Ababol (Albacete)
Garlic (Logroño)
aleia (Barcelona)
Alma Mater (Murcia)
Alchemy-Laboratory (Valladolid)
Ancient (Illescas)
Arrea! (Santa Cruz de Campezo)
Ceibe (Ourense)
Cobo Evolution (Burgos)
Barcode (Cádiz)
Eat (Barcelona)
Etxeko Ibiza (Es Canar, Eivissa)
Ferpel (Nettle)
Fusion19 (Muro, Majorca)
Weird People (Zaragoza)
Kaleja (Malaga)
The Farm (Loja)
Mount (San Feliz)
Montia (San Lorenzo de El Escorial)
Oba (Casas-Ibáñez)
O’Pazo (Padron)
Ravioxo (Madrid)
San-Hô (Adeje, Tenerife)
Tabaiba (Las Palmas de Gran Canaria)
Ugo Chan (Madrid)
Zuara Sushi (Madrid)