Blossom, the pre-collections fair, celebrated its latest edition on December 14th and 15th in Paris. The event, organized by Première Vision since 2016, presented a preview of the summer 2024 collections for creative, luxurious and high-end fashion brands.
This kick-off event, to which the crème de la crème of French and Italian weaving mills were invited, was intimate, elegant and of high quality. It remains popular for shopping for luxury and premium fabrics. With around 110 exhibiting companies (10 new this year), Blossom offered a snapshot of the first trends of the SS24 season as they weaves (silks, prints, sports, shirting), lacemakers, knitters, tanners (around 15 exhibitors) and the Producers of trimmings such as trims, ribbons and buttons.
The pre-collections, formerly known as cruise collections by luxury houses and brands, have been gaining in importance for about 15 years and have become even stronger in recent years. They are fueled by the ceaseless cycle of novelty driven by fast fashion and capsule collections and other drops that complement seasonal goods. The current economic tensions (rising raw material prices, manufacturing and assembly times) further strengthen their position.
An exclusive event, with a valuable audience
The balance, not yet confirmed by the organizers but collected by the exhibitors, is the following: a nice event, with very qualitative buyers, especially on the opening day. The return of guests from North America was also very remarkable. Apart from this clientele, it was mainly the purchasing and management of the big Parisian brands and luxury houses that populated the aisles of the Carreau du Temple. “We see an international clientele at the Première Vision, especially as we generate 70 percent of our sales from exports. This is where we meet our customers or interested parties from Paris,” said Jean-Pascal Laude, Managing Director of Dentelles labellisées Calais-Caudry André Laude. Darquer & Méry was present at the fair for the first time, exhibiting its modern and complex creations in Leavers lace, which meet the needs of high-quality lingerie, luxury and haute couture. The corresponding buyers were also present here.
.
The same satisfaction prevailed at Bouton-Renaud, which presented its new silk fabrics on jacquard velor looms, pure industrial craftsmanship made in France. His fantasy, plain and jacquard velvets, his finished and hand-painted fabrics have been praised for their creativity, their sophistication and their authenticity. However, Jean-François Renaud, the head of one of the last French velvet-producing companies, dampened the good impression: “There is little good news in the current economy: the increase in commodity prices by an average of 20 percent for the whole year, the impact of the rising Energy costs are still difficult for us to measure, geopolitics, the future is more than uncertain,” he said.
The Jules Tournier collection, in business since 1865, which offers great aesthetic richness, always attracts a large number of buyers. It included fine woolen fabrics, caban and gauze, but above all a wide range of complex fantasy tweeds made from different yarns, including an increasing number of recycled ones. The booth of the Blossom newcomer Pyratex from Spain with its antioxidant algae fibers for ‘Premium Relax’ products was a real crowd puller.
There were a few new additions to the printers. In addition to Liberty Fabrics, New Concept, a branch of Stamperia di Martinengo, was also present, distinguished by the strength and graphic creativity of its designs. Drawing on Italian know-how and tradition, the nearby Serterie Argenti offered a wide range of warp and weft fabrics and a wide variety of contemporary designs with a strong identity. Numerous Italian companies were present for the knitwear: Fabrica Tessuti, Tessitura Rossi, Inwool Jersey, and others.
Conclusion: The Blossom remains a showcase for the extraordinary textile industry.
This article was similarly published on FashionUnited.fr. Translation and editing: Barbara Russ