Fashion is constantly changing and this also applies to menswear, which is usually associated with classic and sporty looks. How is masculine fashion still defined at a time when role models like musician Harry Styles are shaping the style of a younger generation? And where is the “classic menswear customer”?
Trend expert Julian Daynov provides information on this. The Berliner-by-choice brings with him a wide range of experience in the fashion industry – consultant for brands, content creator and trend forecaster. He was also active as a buyer for the US luxury department store Saks Fifth Avenue. FashionUnited met Daynov at the Pitti Uomo menswear fair in Florence. There he presented his current collaboration with Studio Seidensticker, the progressive line of the Bielefeld-based clothing retailer.
Menswear is changing, but where is it headed?
It’s not just menswear, it’s fashion, society, the whole world – if you break it down to menswear, most of this shift has its roots in our modern interpretation of masculinity. We break with gender roles, old norms and antiquarian beliefs when it comes to everything around us. Change is our new movement.
The spectrum of contemporary menswear today is fluid, emphasizing the characteristics and qualities of the modern man: bold yet gentle, bold and vulnerable, inspirational, sporty, chic, alternative, punk, expressive, caring, free from that standard normcore stigma and the patriarchal uniformity in which our parents were trapped. In this context, I see liberation as a key concept and driving force – menswear is increasingly moving into a more experimental playground that has so far been reserved primarily for womenswear.
What observations did you make?
There’s so much we’re seeing happening in menswear right now, and everything has its place – the ultimate shape-shifting in clothing, a poetic and nostalgic nod to the ’90s, a departure from hipster or hype-beast culture and a wave of icons and role models redefining modern masculinity surround us. What has been profoundly established is obsolete and not just in a fashion sense – it is more of an ideological level of change that we are witnessing here.
Who are these role models?
Harry Styles, Jared Leto, Troye Sivan – just to name a few. They are not only ambassadors of fashion or trend awareness, they spread a new attitude towards one’s own being.
At Studio Seidensticker you will develop a progressive approach for the traditional clothing manufacturer. How do these two currents work side by side?
Studio Seidensticker as the ‘Diffusion Line’ within the Seidensticker Group’s brand universe focuses on assembling timeless yet modern looks and curating a range of pieces that transcend classic categories, occasions and gender boundaries. She takes a contemporary approach and pairs it with today’s heritage and values: effortless garments, simple silhouettes, fabrics of the highest quality, all made with respect for nature and the people in the production context.
In fact, it is precisely the coexistence of both parameters that makes the entire brand and the story behind it so special and valuable. The connection between tradition and modernity, heritage and zeitgeist, generations of artisans and visionary creatives is a crucial part of the identity of this project.
The craftsmanship and heritage probably come with benefits too…
Yes, many young brands often struggle with a lack of in-depth expertise and knowledge in apparel design, finishing and manufacturing. It’s so much easier to work with someone who has pioneered the design and manufacture of shirts of all kinds for over 100 years. It is precisely the combination of heritage, tradition and know-how coupled with the desire for modernity and the drive to interpret a garment as sacred and steeped in history as a shirt and place it in the context of our times.
And how was it for you to work with such a traditional clothing supplier?
My collaboration with the Seidensticker family was very authentic, very natural and born out of our friendship and admiration for each other’s work. Together with Creative Director Marc Biggemann, who is definitely one of the most enriching esthetes I have had the privilege to work with, we have developed a capsule collection that reflects my personal style. It’s inspired by signature looks I’ve found for myself – boxy, relaxed, crisp shirt silhouettes that are easy to play with and styled in a variety of ways to create different options for timelessly cool looks.
Are classic menswear customers ready for this change in fashion?
Fashion itself is a very influential mass medium, an educational platform full of visual statements, and we all know that over time we can learn a lot from what we see and interpret it in our own way.
The “classic menswear customers” are going through a slow but clearly noticeable development: less dandy-like, more experimental; less dogmatically rooted in dress codes and hierarchies; more open to modern codes and individuality. Even these “classic types” that we often quote in market studies , see life differently today: They also live through their screens, seek inspiration on social media, emulate global style icons and most of what they see is no longer about the old classic way of dressing .
Fashion always has its finger on the pulse and shows that society is ready for a liberation in thought, in consumption and for a new modernity: in the office, on the red carpet, in bed, on the screen…
Collections are increasingly being labeled with terms such as ‘unisex’ and ‘gender-neutral’. Is that a step in the right direction or almost ‘pinkwashing’?
It’s a fact that fashion has always been a “safe space” where non-normative gender identities were naturally accepted, celebrated and empowered. I am delighted that the issue of gender fluidity has moved out of the realm of denial or activism and into public awareness in so many areas of our lives.
At its core, designing a unisex collection reflects consumers’ understanding of clothing culture – they celebrate beauty and value looks and attitude beyond what has been defined as binary inclusion. Men’s fashion will clearly evolve and explore new territories. This will definitely cause many new tendencies to emerge and fluidity to become more present. We will continue to shift our standard departmental shopping pattern towards all-gender assortments.
How do labels manage to design a collection that is really for all genders and doesn’t just mean casual wear with sweaters and t-shirts?
When it comes to the essence of our all-gender pieces, we tend to be casual: fits tend to be loose and boxy, silhouettes are oversized, size ranges are fluid. All-gender fashion works through the overall look and the attitude, coolness and ideology it conveys.
What tip would you give to a brand that wants to reach out to a younger target group?
Understanding the priorities, values and preferences of the new generation of customers is key to being perceived as a legitimate brand in the way they want – free, responsible, effortless, positive.
I often ask even established creative directors and renowned designers whether they really know what moves their audience, how they live, how they consume, how they spend their time, what makes them spend money on fashion…
What did you learn from it?
There aren’t many who really know much about the audience they design for. They need to engage more with their desired audience, spend time in the marketplace, and better understand what drives consumers to make a specific purchasing decision for a brand or product. Engaging with the buyer communities is a currency that not many brands know how to handle.
Which designers are shaping men’s fashion at the moment?
The aesthetic of Gucci in recent years under Alessandro Michele, JW Anderson in his work for his eponymous label and also for Loewe, Daniel Lee’s sophisticated definition of ‘Quiet Luxury’, Chitose Abes [Anm. d. Red.: Designerin des Labels Sacai] artistic extravagance and its play with fabrics, lengths, volumes and layers, Martine Rose, Miuccia [Prada] and raf [Simons].
What’s your must-have piece for this summer?
I keep my summer wardrobe very airy, loose, boxy and silky and I live for total looks. Wild Marni and Jacquemus prints, long satin kaftans and wide-leg trousers and oversized shirts are always in my holiday suitcases. Somehow I’m not a fan of linen, which is what most people love in the summer – while it feels great on the skin, it doesn’t look flawless after the first wrinkles.
As far as clothing goes, I grab Birkenstock Boston suede clogs in all variations, white oversize shirts and spice things up with eye-catching bags from Bottega Veneta and Jil Sander and tone-on-tone bucket hats. Oh, and at the top of my summer shopping list: a pair of Prada penny loafers for those moody evenings after a long day at the beach.
Last but not least: What is your first impression of the Pitti Uomo 104?
With us [Anm. d. Red.: Seidensticker-Stand] there was a lot going on on the first day and we got great feedback.
Which brands should buyers keep an eye on at Pitti?
I haven’t had much time to look around yet. But you should definitely keep an eye on Ksenia Schneider, Permu, Do, Hul Le Kes and of course Rossi and Seidensticker.