“Fashion is a reflection of society”, Edwin van den Hoek begins his trend seminar for FW24/25. This time he will not focus so much on inflation, energy crisis, protests, demonstrations and strikes. The trend researcher noticed something else in the last six months.
What that is becomes clear right at the beginning of his presentation: an image of two men lying on the ground. Over the past year, several male Dutch celebrities have made headlines and created a cancel culture. According to Van den Hoek, the scandals have created prudery, blurred lines and shifted responsibility. The trend researcher came to the conclusion that society, and thus also men’s fashion, needed a renewal.
The world is clearly growing up. These elements are reflected in the trends that the trend researcher discovers on the streets and on the catwalk, but also in museums and in films. It tells its story through three broad themes: revamp, dismantle, and expand. FashionUnited shares some insights from the FW24 seminar.
Men’s fashion for SS24: blurring boundaries and creating space for extravagant outfits
The first theme is described as “Revisited”. Here the trend researcher refers to the blurring of the border between male and female silhouettes. So far, male and female collections have been shown separately, but from the next FW season they will be combined. Also, more androgynous models will be featured. In fashion, this means that the pieces are not (anymore) gender specific. Van den Hoek emphasizes: “It’s not that soon all men will be walking around in skirts, but that there is a possibility.” To illustrate this trend, he uses Dior as an example. The luxury brand has rummaged through its women’s archive for next season’s men’s collection. The result is a half wrap skirt worn over pants of the same color. The silhouette is inspired by dresses from the 1950s.
Another trend in this theme is the use of beads, sequins and glitter galore. This is evident in jewelry and brooches, as well as in garments that are dipped in a bath of glitter. Flowers also play a big role – a trend that is becoming more and more popular on social media. High reach celebrities who find this trend hot and hip are making sure it returns to the streets.
A men’s trend for FW24: ruffles, fringes and sheer fabrics
The next theme is “Deconstructed” and represents the love-hate relationship with things. “We know that we consume too much. In this trend we look for the value of our objects: What are they worth? And where did they come from? These are questions that we face,” says Van den Hoek. In other words: sustainability is the be-all and end-all. Remnants, recycled fibers and yarns are used. The fact that these are used should be recognizable: for example, attention is paid to the weaving techniques by enlarging them. Another aspect of this issue is the “damaged clothing” trend. Frayed and transparent fabrics are often shown here. This in turn points to the blurring of boundaries between men and women. Indeed, for decades, perhaps even centuries, these elements have been attributed to women’s fashion. This pattern now appears to have been broken.
Edwin van den Hoek: FW24 is all about a futuristic adventure
For the latest theme, the trend researcher grabs his crystal ball and looks to the future under the name “Expanded”. This futuristic trend makes us aware of how quickly technologies are evolving. Sometimes we can hardly distinguish between what is realistic and what is surreal, says Van den Hoek. This manifests itself in fluorescent colors and surreal shapes in garments – seen in collections by Louis Vuitton, Bluemarble and Samsoe Samsoe.
Van den Hoek also points to a trend in the futuristic spheres of retail: digital screens will become a larger part of the physical store to offer consumers a greater ‘experience’. “You get the feeling of entering another world, which is becoming increasingly important when addressing customers,” says the trend researcher.
All in all, it becomes clear that men’s fashion is changing and is looking for an answer to the question: What is the man? It seems that the line between the male and female silhouette is blurring in fashion, with men’s skirts, beaded necklaces and floral patterns becoming more ‘normal’. “No one looks up when a man wears a pearl necklace anymore. Also, while the men’s skirt is an interesting development, that doesn’t mean that all men will be walking in skirts anytime soon. The opportunity is there and that’s what counts.”
This translated post previously appeared on FashionUnited.nl.