Since 2015, in our country, the National Mate Day. The celebration was instituted with the purpose of promoting the permanent recognition of one of our most deeply rooted customs. The date was chosen in honor of the birth of Andres Guacurari Artigasknown as “andresito”who was the first governor of indigenous origin of the missionary territory and promoter of the production of yerba mate in the 19th century.
The Guarani were the ones who began with the consumption of yerba mate, collecting native leaves in the forest of Paraná. With the arrival of the Jesuit missions, a more effective and controlled cultivation technique was developed. However, with the expulsion of the Jesus company, in 1767, the Guarani maintained the habit of consumption and cultivation activity with discretion. The coming to power of Andresito, between 1815 and 1819, allowed production to resurface for its daily and massive use.
At present, the consumption of the infusion is rooted throughout the territory within a habit of customs. Even in countries like Uruguay, Paraguayan and the southern region of Brazil, mate is a drink of daily consumption at all times and at all times. With various variations or methods of preparation, the traditional flavor is still valid at the table of Argentines.
A curiosity of the mate is that it is expanding in the world and being recognized in our country for its study. The Argentine School of Teatogether with Interamerican Open University, launched the Yerba Mate University Diploma. The academic initiative is carried out by the Supervisor of the career, Diego Morlachetti. The specialist, in dialogue with NEWS, explained the secrets of the native drink par excellence.
NEWS: Since when does the consumption of mate date back and how has its production process changed?
Diego Morlachetti: The consumption of mate is connected with the history of man, especially with the Guarani culture. There were two essential forms of consumption, on the one hand, chewing the freshly harvested leaf, as was done with other herbs, on the other, preparing the infusion in a device adding natural water and the leaves, in a consumption that resembles what we call tereré There was a precursor that they developed from the bulb where it allowed the leaves to filter. The variation with respect to the present in the elaboration, is basically one, and it can be summarized in the automation of the processes. In the past, the elaboration of the yerba was manual and was done in small batches. Today, in the modern development of the industries, many of these steps are replaced by production lines and development of machinery that allows to process more volume of leaves and in a controlled way, with a scale production, maintaining the standards that each company requires.
NEWS: What does the mate sommelier course consist of?
Morlachetti: The first University Diploma in Yerba Mate Sommelier It is an unprecedented educational development, the result of an agreement between the university and the Escuela Argentina de Té. It allows to educate the final consumer, and logically the people who work in the industry and in gastronomy, that what is sought as the main axis is to learn to taste yerba mate. In order to get out of the reductionism that consumers have about the products and, simply, recognize the diversity of palates that exists today due to the offer in the market. Of course, a sommelier must be an actor with a very good general knowledge of yerba mate. That is to say, that he must give pleasure to listen to it, from an integral and wide formation, based on sensoriality.
NEWS: How does the Argentinian mate differ from other countries?
Morlachetti: The Argentine mate has four components: the powder, the stick, the thick leaf and the fine leaf. There are differences between Argentine herbs and those of other countries. The yerba elaborated in Brazil is a yerba without parking, a quality that all Argentine yerbas have. In fact, most of the yerbas mates made in Brazil come sealed in a vacuum and it is recommended to keep them in the fridge once opened. It is a product with a green chlorophyll, with vegetal aromatization, much more intense. Uruguayan yerba mate, which is mostly made in Brazil and prepared for the Uruguayan market, is a yerba that has a granulometry similar to the Brazilian one but with the presence of stick. It has greater volume and structure, it has a softer function. The stick has a purpose that is to soften the palate. Paraguayan yerba mate has a presentation of citrus (lemon) and other menthol herbs, and there is a greater habit of daily consumption than Argentina, at different times, for the tereré. It is the preparation of the mate with a bombilla and cold water is added. However, there is a coexistence in consumption with hot water mate.
NEWS: What are the recommendations for the proper preparation of the infusion?
Morlachetti: It is very important to homogenize the components of yerba mate: stick, powder, fine crushed leaf and larger crushed leaf. These compounds are of different natures, density and weight. So the tendency to acquire a package and we do not generate this homogenization, the experience will vary from what it should be. What it can be is to move in an oscillating way, so that all the components are integrated at the moment of going to the mate. Once in the mate, the yerba and the bombilla have been placed, it is important not to wet all the leaves. Always hydrate towards the bottom because in this way we will have a higher yield, a greater quantity of tasty barley. There should always be a remnant of dry leaves at the top that will hydrate upwards. The temperature of the water is crucial, the recommended one is between 75 and 85 degrees (although there is no consensus), this can vary depending on some factors. Taking into account the moment the water is added, some degree of the device is lost to the mate, although the addition time is short. They are simple recommendations that anyone can remember.
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