Print the pattern, select the fabric, get out the sewing machine: let’s get started! Making now will be radiant later in a beautiful top or dress.
Will it be the top or the dress? Use this pattern to determine the length of the design yourself:
A. as top,
B. as a knee-length dress and
C. as a calf length dress.
Experienced seamstresses can sew a piping trim (piping cord) into the seam of the shoulder yoke. This gives the outfit the look of real couture.
You can download the pattern in the right size (S, M, L, XL or XXL) and the work description for free here.
The pattern
The pattern consists of 35 pages and is built up in layers. So only print the desired size on A4. To do this, open the pattern with Adobe Acrobat Reader (free download). on this instruction video shows how to print the correct size.
No printer? Then upload the A0 file via plotcomfort.nl, have it printed and sent to you. Tip: if you use the code MARIJKESEWING, you will receive a 30% discount!
Size table body measurements at a height of 1.72 m in cm 
Fabric advice: supple woven fabrics, such as viscose, cupro or silk
The fabric consumption is based on a model with a center back seam. Would you rather not have a center back seam, but cut all the panels at the fabric fold? Then calculate about 60 cm extra.
Additional Needs: vlieseline H180, 50 cm elastic band of 5 mm wide, approx. 50 cm flexible elastic band of 2.5 cm wide and optional 150 cm piping band of 3 mm wide.
1. Front bodice with bow
cut 1x fabric fold
2. Front shoulder yoke
cut 2x at the fabric fold
3. Back bodice
cut 2x
4. Back yoke
cut 2x at the fabric fold
5. Waist tunnel at the back
cut 2x at the fabric fold
6. Sleeve trim
cut 2x
7. Skirt part front
cut 1x fabric fold
cut along pocket entrance line A for a model with pockets
8. Skirt part back piece
cut 2x
9. Pocket part
cut 2x
10. Piping piping for
1x on fabric fold
11. Back piping
1x on fabric fold
● Cut the fabric parts as shown in the example.
● All pattern pieces INCLUDE 1cm seam allowance and 2cm hem.
● All seams are sewn right sides together unless otherwise stated.
● Reinforce the corners of the waist seam and bow with adhesive fleece, as shown in yellow in the picture.
● Reinforce the pocket entrance with a straight 2 cm wide strip of adhesive fleece.
● Finish the red marked seams with a lock or zigzag stitch.
torso
Place the lines B of the bow on the bodice on top of each other and stitch line B. Start stitching at the indicated marking point C. Iron the seam open.
Fold the bow in half so that the seam (line B) is in the middle. Sew the bottom of the bow closed. Cut the corners diagonally and turn the bow. Flatten the bow.
Now cut the front bodice from the waist seam diagonally to marker C up to the stitching.
Stitch the center back seam of the bodice and press the seam open.
Place the back waist tunnel pieces on top of each other with the back bodice in between and stitch the long seam.
Iron the seam flat. Later this will be the tunnel through which elastic goes.
Sew the shoulder seams of both shoulder yokes and press them open. Place the shoulder yokes together, making sure that the front yoke is on the front yoke and back on back, pin the shoulder seams, center front and center back seams exactly together. Stitch the neck around. Trim the neckline about every 2 to 3 cm. Turn the shoulder yoke and iron the neck seam so that the seam is 2 mm inwards and therefore not visible from the right side.
Pin or baste the shoulder seams to keep them from shifting. Because we have moved the neck seam 2 mm, the shoulder yoke will no longer be flush on the seams that will be stitched on the front and back.
For a true couture look, you can opt for a 3mm trim from the seam, between the torso and the yoke. This does require some precision work, so practice on a sample of fabric first. But it can also just be left out. Fold the trims in half lengthwise with the right side of the fabric out and iron flat.
Place the yoke on top of each other as smooth as possible, place the folded trim over the seam that will be sewn on the front and back piece and sew a stitching at 5 mm from the trim on the yoke. Trim the protruding edge of the seam.
Now place the upper body parts on the shoulder yoke with the trim and sew them together. Finish the seams with a lock or zigzag stitch and iron the seam downwards, or upwards if you are using sheer fabric.
Sew the side seams of the bodice together, leaving an opening from the back of the waist tunnel to the cut, where the elastic will go through later. Press the side seams open.
sleeve trim
Fold the sleeve band in half lengthwise and stitch the short sides to form a ‘ring’. Fold the sleeve band in half with the right side of the fabric out. Pin the sleeve band to the bodice with the seam on the side seam. Stitch the sleeve band to the bodice and finish the seam with a lock or zigzag stitch. Iron the seam towards the sleeve band.
Skirt parts with pocket
Place the front piece cut along the pocket entrance line A on the pocket piece and stitch the line up to the marking point. Cut the seam up to the stitching at the marking point and press the seam open.
Fold the pocket part back and move the seam 2 mm inwards, making sure that the cut corner is facing out.
Now fold the bag in half over the fold line and stitch the bottom of the bag closed. Finish the seam with a lock or zigzag stitch.
Now make a stitching 5 mm from the edge over the side seam and in the waistline to keep the pocket in place.
Skirt parts
Stitch the center back seam of the skirt part and press the seam open. Place the back skirt parts on the front skirt part and sew the side seams. Cut the seam of the front piece just below the pocket up to the stitching. Press the seam open from the pocket to the hem and press the side seam at the pocket towards the back piece.
Pin the bodice to the skirt parts. Stitch the waist seam with the bodice at the top, so you can see exactly where you cut. Start with the seam from bow to bow in the front piece. Then stitch all around from the cut corner to the other cut corner.
Check that the corners are stitched correctly and finish the waist seam with a lock or zigzag stitch.
Cut the 2.5cm wide elastic according to the size chart and thread it through the back tunnel using a safety pin. Fasten it to the side seams and stitch the side seams. Now stitch the elastic through at 7 mm from the waist and tunnel seam. Make sure that the needle is down when the stretch is put on the elastic, otherwise the needle will warp.
Cut the 5 mm wide elastic according to the table and pin the beginning, middle and end to the waist seam of the front piece. Stitch the elastic to the seam on the inside, so it won’t be visible from the outside.
Zoom
Carefully iron the seam around 1.5 cm, taking care not to stretch the seam. Now stitch the seam at 3 mm from the edge. Trim the remaining hem as short as possible along the stitching. Now fold the narrow seam in again, so that it becomes a rolled edge. Topstitch it on the inside as close to the debossed side as possible. This way you get a luxurious narrow rolled edge. This method does require some practice. For a simpler zoom, watch the video Tips and tricks for the perfect rolled hem.
Watch the video below on how to assemble the dress yourself: