The Madrid Fashion Week collections are based on artisanal details, the cultural background of Spain and are often linked to occasion and bridal wear. Some elements return season after season and others spice up the overall picture. FashionUnited was out and about in the Spanish capital and took a closer look at the looks for autumn/winter 24.
Side trains
Particularly in occasion and bridal fashion, trains – whether extra long or shorter – are not uncommon and they do not always have to be white like a wedding dress. In Madrid this season, a side-styled version also impressed, which was seen as a detail on elegant dresses in pastel colors and a strong blue. But also as a draped element on pinstriped trousers, worn with a shirt and tie, the side train was a real eye-catcher that could establish itself in modern menswear.
feather dress
Feathers are a popular detail in collections inspired by ‘high tailoring’. Like the birds, the models also show off their feathers in all their glory. Several brands such as Isabel Sanchis, Duyos and Adria Egea tend towards the darker version à la Alfred Hitchcock. In addition to the circling ravens, there are also night owls on the move, as is the case at Claro Couture. The Spanish label adorns a tight dress with a red smoke print and individual feathers. Paired with a red plush coat lightly draped around the exposed shoulders, it outlines the trend towards Parisian nightlife and Moulin Rouge, without the showgirl aspect.
Ruffles
The ruffle details that are popular in traditional flamenco dresses offer significantly more show. These also played an important part at Fashion Week in Madrid, but are particularly conspicuous in this trend. Instead of being used as cuffs or on the bottom hem of dresses, they can be found in the décolleté area of some collections. Fashion designers also used them in the form of a button placket alternative and as a large-scale drape. Instead, brands like Simorra and Hannibal Laguna decided not to cover their shoulders.
Transparent fabrics
Transparent fabrics are very popular on the catwalk at Madrid Fashion Week, perhaps because of their lightness in warmer temperatures. For FW24, the designers particularly focus on tops with floral applications, glitter and gemstones, but sometimes also on subtle versions without any further details. In terms of color, the transparent pieces were often black and white, but there were also green and red accents. Depending on the collection, the piece can be a statement piece as well as a supporting companion. Claro Couture showed a burgundy mesh top combined with a fluffy ruffled skirt.
Crochet goods
Brands rely on a touch of ‘Boho Chic’ in the style of the classic white crochet tablecloth and embroidered curtains with skirts, dresses and two-piece suits consisting of a shirt and trousers. Despite the airy machines, the looks appear significantly more opaque than the transparent fabrics. They are also much more reserved in color and are usually combined tone-on-tone, with black or a light sky blue.
Rose gold and bronze
A bit more color, although not really bright, can be seen in the rose gold and bronze details from brands like Lola Casademunt by Maite and Duyos, which allow these slightly shimmering colors to pop against dull tones in print. Meanwhile, menswear specialist Felix Ramiro integrates a bronze-colored shirt with brown sleeves into a material mix with fur and animal print.
Vinyl look
The vinyl-look pieces are also shiny and could come straight from the polished car advertising of ‘Fashion Week Madrid’ sponsor Mercedes-Benz. The light reflection from the headlights creates an exciting pattern on the jackets, tops and skirts that changes depending on movement. The color palette is again rather reserved with black and gray-blue. Brands like Visori Studio and Malne rely on plenty of details such as feathers, chains and transparent fabrics that heat up the overall look.
