It’s been months since in the Barcelona bars and restaurants the lunch menus they are not only modulated according to the seasonal product or the caloric and nutritional table, but above all calculator in hand. If it is already difficult to hit the target on the palate of so many Barcelonans, it is even more complicated scratch profits in that gastronomic puzzle (first, second, dessert, drink and bread) so rooted in the city, where the price is outlined with an eye on the worker who usually makes up the clientele. To Josi Gómez, co-owner five years ago of the Marcellin 16 Diputació street, it has taken him weeks to make the decision to jump from 12 euros to 12.50, like Vaseline before reaching 12.90 next January. “We have endured what we could for the clients, but it is the only option to get ahead, because what the client does not forgive is losing quality. They prefer that you raise them a little.”
The increases have been widespread in recent months and those to come, as confirmed by the independent survey commissioned by the Gremi de Restauració and advanced by EL PERIÓDICO: from coffee to beers, through fish and sandwiches; Exceptions are soft drinks (if the sugar tax is not applied) or a few menu dishes. But the king of services for many small businesses, the lunch menu concentrates all the ingredients for the rise: They are cooked dishes (with gas and oil through the roof), the diner consumes it on the spot and for a long time (with a record season of heat and air conditioning) and the margins are minimal in themselves.
Various sources consulted who have worked for a long time with menus between 10.5 and 12.5 euros (in general, the cheapest in the city) dissect their expenses, with the general conclusion that the net profit is usually just two eurosspending about six on food (as long as there is quantity and rotation) and between three and a little more than four on various expenses that go of taxes on suppliesthrough rent and hired staff, if any.
These areas vary greatly depending on the structure of the business and its location, since in the case of more central Leasing has a strong impact, which in many cases already entails more expensive menus. The same happens with the most accredited or formal restaurants, where if they do, they usually go below 18 euros.
The most damaged pocket
But in the most popular strip and whose increases entail more damage for the lower or middle class worker, the increases are measured with lead feet. In Nova Esquerra de l’Eixample, with strong competition from bars-restaurants, you also have to look sideways to decide on your strategy. In the Galicia bar, on Gran Via they went from 11 to 12 euros, without the bills coming out yet, so a few days ago they prepared a new jump.
Nearby, in El Faisán, from the Reloj group, they recently went from 12.90 euros to 14.90 to face the unstoppable prices of raw materials, since they maintain their usual suppliers and do not want to alter quality. Are there fewer customers? “It is more noticeable on the weekend, which has gone from 3 to 7:90 p.m.,” local sources say, when the client comes for pleasure or a whim. They will have to raise the price of the letter — whose imbalances they still “assume” in January, they warn. Meanwhile, they try to rationalize costs, such as the air conditioning, which they turn off as soon as the temperature of this torrid October allows it. “The electricity bill is unaffordable for many businesses,” they say.
They are even more resistant to increases bar-restaurant transferred to Chinese entrepreneurs, which have their great magnet in price. In the Bienvenido de Diputació, 240 have just gone up from 10 euros to 10.50: “The minimum because if not people complain”, they maintain, displaying a “Western” menu, on whose terrace there are many construction workers from the area and youths.
At Marcelino 16 (currently independent) the key to survival in times of gastronomic algorithms is volume and fresh produce, making 60 to 90 menus a day, with very loyal customers. “Many still think that it is better to eat a menu here than at home“, says Josi, who maintains the entire workforce without cuts. There are six people in total to cover the daily marathon from 7:30 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. “The previous cane and the coffee afterward is what rounds the numbers,” he is honest. None crisis will take her to the frozen ones, she proclaims.
The tortilla is expensive
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And although he does not prepare menus, even José Ramon González, from the Lalans bar (an institution in terms of tortillas), has had to start the autumn with a rise of 50 cents on his generous portions, which previously cost 3 euros. “We hadn’t touched prices for six years, but now eggs have risen by 25%, sunflower oil by 80%, and also olive oil for bread, spreadable tomatoes are eight euros per kilo and potatoes are also more expensive…”, he laments. In the letter, affordable in itself, they have applied increases according to the product, but minimal. Special mention deserves the octopus, which “has doubled”, and fed up with the continuous price booms they have chosen to put ‘according to market’.
For González, however, what upsets him the most is receiving the electricity bill. They have gone from about 800 or 900 euros a month to up to 2,800, opening only until 5:00 p.m. With anecdotes to forget, like the 850 euros they paid in August (closed for holidays) just to leave a camera running. “But we can’t raise the drinks any more, we are a neighborhood bar,” he assumes. It is not surprising that transfers have grown in recent years.