The industry often talks about the value that fashion weeks bring to a city – its economic impact, the buzz, the cultural exchange and community engagement. However, costs for independent brands can sometimes be overwhelmingly high, making these events less worthwhile. There were undeniable gaps at London Fashion Week this season, from the absence of designer Christopher Kane, who filed for bankruptcy earlier this year, to young talents SS Daley and Nensi Dojaka. Additionally, aspiring fashion designer Dilara Findikoglu had to cancel her show due to insufficient funds, the New York Times reported.
At a time when major brands continue to expand and create ever more elaborate productions, aspiring designers are struggling to get the attention and platform they need to cultivate their fledgling businesses. London may be a hotbed of emerging talent, but it remains an exceptionally expensive city, forcing many to make a difficult decision between maintaining their businesses and diverting resources into non-essential marketing spend. Designers should not be forced to choose between maintaining their businesses and presenting their collections at fashion week. “I don’t think it’s ever been more difficult to be an independent designer in London than it is right now,” said Caroline Rush, chief executive of the British Fashion Council.
Positive aspects despite setbacks
Despite these setbacks, London Fashion Week also had positive aspects to offer this season. The event coincided with Design Week, resulting in numerous pop-ups and collaboration events across the city. These activities celebrated the work of visionary designers and artists who, despite not having the resources of luxury corporations, demonstrate innovative approaches and determination that challenge the status quo. In addition, three fashion exhibitions are currently taking place in London, highlighting the profound influence of fashion on the life of society. These exhibitions ranged from “Chanel’s Manifesto” at the Victoria & Albert Museum to the retrospective “Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion” at the Design Museum and “The Missing Thread: Untold Stories of Black British Fashion” at Somerset House.
There were also cross-cutting events, including Vogue World’s quirky and star-studded celebration of the British performing arts, with a red carpet that resembled New York’s Met Gala, and Central Saint Martins University’s Design Transforms exhibition, which featured the work of product designers: was celebrated in collaboration with the sustainable company UPM. Even the iconic London Underground has been temporarily taken over by heritage brand Burberry, with London’s Bond Street renamed Burberry Street and branded with the brand’s new blue logo, albeit to the confusion of some commuters.
From established to emerging designers, here’s a rundown of the highlights of London Fashion Week.
Burberry
The stakes were high for Daniel Lee’s second show for Burberry, and anticipation was high. Lee’s job is to boost sales, particularly in accessories, an area where Burberry has lagged behind other luxury brands. This presentation focused primarily on shoes and bags, reflecting his expertise from his time at Celine and Bottega Veneta. For Spring 2014, Lee appeared to streamline the collection, focusing on narrowing down the range of silhouettes and options, particularly the iconic trench coat, which appeared fresh and sophisticated with a fitted belt, embodying a lasting investment rather than a fleeting trend. Dresses and suits exuded clarity and relevance and were intended for urban life rather than red carpet fantasy. The shoes were particularly strong, with a new sandal, loafer and boots. With significantly fewer checks, Lee delivered realism.
Simone Rocha
Fans of the Crocs shoe brand will love Simone Rocha’s beaded and lace version, which is arguably the most romantic and elegant pair of Crocs ever seen. Titled “Dress Rehearsal” and held at the Mulryan Center for Dance, where the English National Ballet rehearses, Rocha highlighted the real relevance of her beautifully embroidered dresses to the world. Combined with a silver biker leather jacket, they were wearable without looking too expensive. Rocha’s mastery of fabrics, both in terms of their aesthetics and her ability to manipulate them to create draping, cuts or folds, was evident, particularly in the pink and red dresses with ruffles at the neck and sleeves – a signature technique that may resurface in the upcoming couture collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier.
JW Anderson
Designer JW Anderson’s collections are known for their colorful and idiosyncratic ideas, but behind the layers and concepts lie real, wearable pieces. The SS24 collection featured a redesigned hoodie, brought to new proportions through Anderson’s artistry. The cargo pants took the spotlight, an everyday garment that has kept sportswear at the forefront of fashion for many seasons. Combined with a biker jacket or a double-breasted blazer, it creates a fresh look without appearing artificial.
Chet Lo
Chet Lo was inspired by seductive prints from ancient Chinese erotic art and shunga. As a Chinese-American teenager, the designer experienced sexuality as taboo. China remains one of the few G20 countries that have not legalized same-sex marriage. Lo believes that clothing can contribute to liberation – a philosophy that is reflected in his collection. From tailored pants with hip slits to knitted halter dresses embellished with a monogrammed scissor print, he wants to make everyone feel their best self and confident.
Emilia Wickstead
Emilia Wickstead’s collection exuded a Saint Tropez and French Riviera vibe that was reminiscent of the ’20s and ’30s, when the region was a haven for artists and a playground for celebrities like Picasso and Lee Miller. Lush, layered stripes in hues of orange, sky blue and sunflower yellow adorned various silhouettes, from an off-the-shoulder sheer dress to a simple coat and two-piece that opened the show. Wickstead’s signature style was bold and flirty, but what she really conveyed was a freedom that reflected the way artists dress themselves and express themselves through fashion.
Ukrainian designers in London
Ukrainian fashion brands Kseniaschnaider, Elenareva and Nadya Dzyak presented their spring-summer 2024 collections at London Fashion Week as part of Ukrainian Fashion Week (UFW), which was not held in Kiev due to the ongoing conflict. Despite air raid sirens and rocket attacks, Ukrainian designers continued their work and the UFW provided continued support during its third international season.
Kseniaschnaider’s collection featured AI-generated denim silhouettes born of experimentation and playfulness. Designer Olena Reva of Elenareva explored the theme of female power by turning to ancient Trypillian culture and presenting prints inspired by ornaments on Trypillian clay jars. Nadya Dzyak was inspired by the work of artist Polina Raiko, whose museum house in Oleshky was flooded after Russia’s destruction of the Kakhovka Dam. Dzyak wanted to transfer Raiko’s paintings onto her clothes, creating an atmosphere that valued the artistic heritage, even if it had been washed away by water.
This translated post previously appeared on FashionUnited.com