She made the little black dress famous, was never married and created an empire: designer Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel (1883-1971) became one of the fashion icons of the 20th century. A London museum is now dedicating a large exhibition to her. “Lovely wearing her own designs, Chanel created clothes for active, independent women like herself,” write the curators of the Victoria and Albert Museum.
The Frenchwoman was born poor, later opened a hat shop and soon created other items of clothing. In 1926, her “little black dress” was so successful that the American “Vogue” described it as the “Ford” of dresses, analogous to the popular car model, the exhibition says.
Perfume was also sold under Chanel’s name in a square bottle, which even the British Queen Elizabeth II liked. Chanel also experimented with new fabrics. A portrait in the exhibition shows her as a woman with dark hair, a pearl necklace and a serious look. After the Second World War she came under suspicion because of her contacts with Germany.
She is said to have had a love affair with the German Hans Günther von Dincklage, and the Nazis are said to have classified her as a trustworthy source – possibly without her knowledge – with the code name “Westminster”, as the exhibition states. Chanel is said to have tried to establish a connection with British Prime Minister Winston Churchill for the Germans. She then joined the French resistance during the war.
After the war, Chanel eventually returned to fashion. Among other things, she designed the famous costumes that are still associated with her name today. The clothes in the exhibition suggest that they made women feel special. The exhibition, which opens on Saturday (September 16), is the first about Coco Chanel in the UK, according to the museum. (dpa)