L‘Aquila, the capital of Abruzzo, restarts from culture, with a program of events and openings until autumn, overtaking the ongoing reconstructions that are healing the wounds of the last devastating earthquake (2009). A real surprise to arrive in the historic center and find Corso Vittorio Emanuelethat of the stroller and the tubs, bustling and freshly repaved in white stoneas if to recall the color of the snow-capped peaks that surround the city.
A deer in the village, the fairytale scene in the snow in Abruzzo
«Aperitif bars are flourishing along via Garibaldi and the nightlife has expanded to other areas, the flow now arrives at the municipal park, it is no longer limited around piazza Regina Margherita and piazza Chiarino, near the luminous fountain» says Marianna Colantoni, founder of tastefromabruzzo.comwho after 12 years abroad has chosen to return to Italy to help grow his territory.
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The rebirth of L’Aquila
L’Aquila was also reborn thanks to the enthusiasm of the local community, and young people who have decided to stay or come back, like the three partners who opened the Mamarita wine bar, to enhance the local flavors and wines. Over the centuries, the city has known periods of power and splendor alternating with phases of decline, destruction, reconstruction and then always great rebirth, and it must be discovered on foot, marveling at the sumptuous eighteenth-century palaces, churches and Romanesque basilicasRenaissance and Baroque that enrich the plot of alleys and scenic views.
Travel to L’Aquila: museums and culture
Including the sixteenth-century Forte Spagnolo, where the MuNDA, the National Museum of Abruzzo (now in via Tancredi da Pentima, former slaughterhouse) should reopen. The rare skeleton of a Mammuthus meridionalis, one of the largest and most complete in Europe, however, can be visited on weekends until 3 September. The layering of history can be discovered during the marathon de Italian Jazz for the Lands of the Earthquake with shows in various squares (September 2-3, iljazzitaliano.it) or in conjunction with widespread exhibition Panorama (from 7 to 10 September, italics.art/panorama-laquila) which, after Procida and Monopoli, brings ancient, modern and contemporary works of art to the historic center of L’Aquila. The event involves over fifty artists and fifty-six galleries.
A glimpse of the cloister of the San Domenico Complex, one of the venues of the Panorama L’Aquila exhibition.
In the capital of forgiveness
The strategic position in the heart of Italy has allowed L’Aquila to gain political, economic, religious and cultural centrality whose traces can be read in the great artistic heritage and in rituals such as the Celestinian forgivenessthe perpetual plenary indulgence that Celestine V granted to all the faithful of Christ 729 years ago, then transformed by Boniface VIII into the universal Jubilee. Until 28 August, the faithful who will go to L’Aquila will be able to obtain a plenary indulgence by fulfilling the provisions (perdonanzacelestiniana.it). An opportunity to visit the sumptuous Palazzo Pica Alfieri, the only regio in the city, Exceptionally open to the public from 26 August to 6 September (by reservation on the site: laquilayoung.org).
Art and culture in L’Aquila
The cultural revival of the city also passes through the initiatives of Maxxi L’Aquila (maxxilaquila.art) new center of contemporaneity at Palazzo Ardinghelli, where visibleinvisible is on show until November 5, a double solo show dedicated to Marisa Merz and Shilpa Gupta. Again in the spaces of the Maxxi in September it returns Performative.03 (September 14-16) three days in which artists present their performances.
A tour of the city can also be done aboard an electric shuttle (welcomeaq.com) to reach the less known corners. In Piazza del Duomo, the ancient Caffè Fratelli Nurzia is worth a stop. «We have never stopped producing chocolate nougat, not even after the earthquake, secretly returning to the laboratory here in the square» says the sixth generation pastry chef Natalia Nurzia who manages the place with her brother Francesco (torronenurzia.it).
The guests of the 2018 Gala Dinner at MAXXI
Between churches and concert halls
Then you enter the maze of narrow streets that lead to basilica of San Bernardino, where the unworn body of the saint is kept. The sixteenth-century Spanish Castle dialogues with thePark Auditorium wanted by Claudio Abbado and built by Renzo Piano. In the church of San Silvestro, one of the most important in the walls, you can admire the frescoes attributed to Maestro di Beffi. We continue towards the Rivera village famous for the Fontana delle 99 Spouts, a hydraulic engineering work built in 1272identity monument of the city. The highlight is the basilica of Santa Maria di Collemaggio, linked to Celestino V, just outside the city walls, on the homonymous hill. “L’Aquila is a city of character, to be visited all year round,” says Ersilia Lancia, councilor for tourism.
The organ in the central nave of the basilica of San Bernardino, in L’Aquila.
In addition to the historical marvels, there is the Gran Sasso massif for easy walks, while the fittest can climb to higher altitudes (gransassolagapark.it).
Where to sleep in L’Aquila
Palace of the Peacocks
L’Aquila, via Paganica 18. Exclusive atmosphere in a noble palace with two charming bedrooms and two suites. A small Spa for guests only. Doubles from 110 euros. palazzodeipavoni.it
Charm in Perillis
San Benedetto in Perillis (L’Aquila), via Colle. Rooms overlooking the valley, with glimpses of medieval fortifications and villages on the slopes of the mountains, in a residence in San Benedetto in Perillis, a village full of natural cavities. Double from 90 euros. charmeinperillis.it
The basilica of Santa Maria di Collemaggio in L’Aquila.
Where to eat
Ernesto restaurant 1968
P.zza della Repubblica 7. Abruzzo cuisine in an informal setting. Try the sagnarelle alla pastore: water and flour pasta,
with ricotta, mushrooms, ham and pecorino.
Osteria La Grotta di Aligi
Viale Rendina 2. Perfect for sampling regional dishes, such as chickpeas and saffron from the Navelli plateau, pappardelle with truffles (scorzone in summer), kebabs or grilled Abruzzo IGP lamb. lagrottadialigi.com
Ancient Walls Restaurant
Viale XXV Aprile 2. The soups are excellent: pasta and beans or Gran Sasso lentils with chicory, spelt and mint. On the menu, which follows the season, there are also sheep ricotta ravioli and veal meatballs.
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