Paris Fashion Week concluded the FW24 season with the “Big Four”, but not without reaching into the color box again. While some designers exercised restraint and opted for dark tones, others welcomed the fashion world into the jungle.
Noir Valentino
Valentino Garavani was known for using a distinctive red color in his designs, and ‘Valentino Red’ is officially recognized by color specialist Pantone.
Since Pierpaolo Piccioli was appointed Valentino designer in 2008, he has also worked extensively with the color. However, for the FW24 collection he took a new direction and designed a collection that was all black. According to the Valentino show notes, he quoted Charles Baudelaire as saying, “Le noir est l’uniforme de la démocratie” (Black is the uniform of democracy).
Piccioli also explained that black “is a color of everyday life. Here, black is amplified and used to recontextualize Valentino’s symbols and signifiers – rosettes, ruffles, embroidery, lace. Day and evening blur into one another, precious silhouettes and decorations take on a new reality, a recognition. Just as you can say ‘Rosso Valentino’, you can also say ‘Noir Valentino’.”
Khaki
French heritage brands revisited classic neutral colors, particularly the khaki tones associated with trench coats and tailoring. It corresponded to current consumer demand for seasonal clothing. The designers most often used khaki in combination with black.
Balmain
At Balmain, designer Olivier Rousteing presented a cropped khaki jacket with trench coat details and a matching skirt over trousers over a black slip dress. The gold buttons and belt buckle had engraved snail shells and the black bag had a grape charm. Both were a nod to the designers’ hometown, Bordeaux.
Christian Dior
A khaki double-breasted trench coat with a belt emblazoned with the handwritten “Miss Dior” logo over a black slip dress and accessories including a high-crown hat, a woven leather bag and patent ankle-strap shoes was designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior.
Coperni
Designer Arnaud Vaillant has reinterpreted a double-breasted trench coat as a bodysuit and combined it with black sunglasses, black tights and black patent pumps. The model carried a micro handbag in a Ziploc bag, part of the show’s sci-fi theme and a nod to the iconic television series The X-Files.
Giambattista Valli
Giambattista Valli sent a khaki cropped canvas jacket down the runway, decorated with bouquets of white stenciled flowers, four pockets and a buckled collar. She was shown wearing black-framed aviator sunglasses with orange lenses and black platform sandals with metal straps.
Soft pink
After a season or two of “Barbie” pink, a more neutral tone of the feminine color emerges. Pink represents the “soft power” of women and perhaps reflects the burgeoning trend for fitted and body-hugging styles.
carpenter
For Zimmermann, a light pink tweed oversized smock top with a large bow at the neck over matching flared trousers, a printed silk scarf and large gold earrings completed the look.
Stella McCartney
Stella McCartney presented a pale pink floor-length faux fur coat over a two-piece gabardine suit in a matching color and black pumps.
Chanel
Influenced by early seventies style reminiscent of the twenties, designer Virginie Viard showed a two-piece suit in pink and green bouclé tweed. The jacket had an asymmetrical button placket and cuffs. Accessories included a large pink straw hat, a small chain-handle bag and an olive green belt.
Shades of green
Unlike designers in other cities, Paris couturiers used a variety of bright green tones. They range from those inspired by nature to neon tones like those seen on screen.
Akris
For Akris, Albert Kriemler presented a long-sleeved chiffon blouse in acid green to emerald ombré and matching full-length trousers, as well as a green metallic clutch and pumps.
Pierre Cardin
At Pierre Cardin, designer Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin sent a bright grass green jacket with a stand-up collar, dropped shoulders and white piping down the runway. She was shown wearing neon green pants, also with white piping.
Miu Miu
Miuccia Prada opted for a neon green sheath dress decorated with pink flowers, accessorized with brown croc-embossed leather cuffs and a brown leather bag. Black sunglasses, a gray wool scarf and black Mary Janes completed the look.
Off White
Designer Ibrahim Kamara showed an olive green military jacket with neon faux fur collar and cuffs with crossed straps meant to reflect the brand’s logo. There were also matching cargo pants and a fur-trimmed “apron.” Accessories included mirrored aviators.
Lacoste
A light green blanket with dark green trim and a yellow pattern was worn over a black sports jacket with light green trim and black leggings at Lacoste. Black sneakers and black and green sports socks completed the look.
This translated and edited post previously appeared on FashionUnited.com