Milan Fashion Week for the Fall/Winter 2024 season took place from February 20th to February 26th. Of the 58 collections and a total of 2,742 looks presented, most of the attention was focused on a handful of shows, including those from major fashion houses Prada, Bottega Veneta and Moschino.
Born in Argentina Adrian Appiolaza took over as creative director at Moschino less than four weeks before Fashion Week. His debut collection was a tribute to Franco Moschino, the fashion house’s founder. Appiolaza, who previously worked at the luxury label Loewe for ten years, showed designs that were far removed from the designs of ex-Moschino creative director Jeremy Scott, but refer to the long-standing Scott era with the presence of slogans and smileys and such provided recognition value for brand-loyal customers.
At Bottega Veneta, creative director Matthieu Blazy has achieved real success with his third appearance for the luxury brand. In his own words, he has “taken everyday clothing to its pinnacle.”
And Prada also attracted a lot of attention: It’s not often that US Vogue features a designer on the cover, but an exception was made for the Italian designer Miuccia Prada. Together with co-designer Raf Simons, she has made the bow the focus of her FW24 collection.
The current bow trend, according to social media platform TikTok, reflects Gen Z’s desire to cling to youth and reject the responsibilities of adulthood. At a time when the world is overwhelmed by the question “How old is too old?” Prada has shown that, at 74, she still has her finger on the pulse and knows what’s relevant in the industry.
Blue like the sky
In this rather colorless season, light blue tones appeared as a key color on several catwalks in Milan. The cheerful light blue can stand alone as a color in the dark winter months, or be combined as a neutral tone with other light colors or in a monochrome look.
Bally
Bally showed off a mid-length leather shirt dress with a knot detail at the waist in a pale blue. The dress was combined with black wedge shoes and a bright red mini bag.
Blumarine
A light blue jumpsuit with a polo collar was seen at Blumarine. The one-piece suit made of ribbed knit with lurex threads was completed with a thin necklace tied in a bow, black loafers and also a red leather bag.
Jil Sander
Jil Sander also presented a pale blue dress with rounded sleeves and seam details. Here too, a red bag is worn with the look. A black cap and camel boots complete the look.
Prada
The trend color also appeared on a dress at Prada. The sleeveless turtleneck sheath dress was worn over a white slip dress and featured white flourishes. The model also wore an eye-catching hood decorated with purple feathers and knee-high black boots.
Army color
As in New York, olive green appeared on many catwalks in Milan. The military color, perhaps reflecting current global war conditions, ran across all types of clothing, like an alternative to black.
Alberta Ferretti
Alberta Ferretti showed off an olive green maxi dress with a crew neck, rounded shoulders and a pleated skirt.
Gucci
At Gucci, a set of a cashmere tunic with matching shorts and scarf was wrapped in the olive green. The model also wore burgundy leather over-the-knee boots and a lime green mini bag.
MM6 Maison Margiela
A tunic in the dark color was also shown at Maison Margiela. The sleeveless look with raised shoulder pads was reminiscent of a power suit and was worn over a black slip dress with a frayed hem. Here too, the outfit was rounded off with leather boots that reached up to the model’s thigh.
Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini
A 1950s-style olive green coat showed up at Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini. The cozy teddy coat with rounded shoulders and statement pearl fastening was paired with a black handbag and matching black leather lace-up shoes.
Red passion
If there was one hue that defined the FW24 season, it was undoubtedly a bright, intense red hue that was ubiquitous not only at New York Fashion Week, but also at European Fashion Weeks. Ferrari’s show notes say: “Red is present… as a reminder of the passion, emotions and desire that the body is capable of.”
Ferrari
Ferrari showed an oversized polo shirt combined with a red patent maxi skirt with a matching bag, gloves and ballerinas made of the same material in the color ‘rosso corsa’.
Sports max
A red corset-style top made from mohair wool was seen at Sportmax. The top with patent details was paired with a matching skirt that was attached to the top with silver hooks.
Martino Midali
Martino Midali also wore a bright red complete look, consisting of a slim-fitting, mid-length coat, suede boots and a felt hat.
Versace
Versace showed off a knee-length red leather dress with a corset and ruffles around the hips. The model wore matching gloves and strappy boots.
Voluminous shoulders
When it came to the choice of fabric, black leather dominated the catwalks in Milan. Unlike previous seasons, the fabric was used to create new voluminous shapes, especially in the shoulder area.
Bottega Veneta
A black leather dress with rounded shoulders, a slit neckline and a flared skirt was seen at Bottega Veneta. The look was combined with a structured, colored handbag and black shoes.
Ice berg
Iceberg showed off a mid-length black leather coat with large shoulders, black pointed-toe patent leather shoes and a black leather tote bag.
Maison Yoshiki
Maison Yoshiki presented a leather mini dress with voluminous batwing sleeves and a sash-effect belt. The look was completed with black sneakers and socks.
No.21
At No.21 a double-breasted coat made of black leather appeared with a black pleated skirt and pointed slingbacks.
Texture mix
In a season with little variety in terms of colors and prints, textures were even more important. The mix of textures at Milan Fashion Week also met the season’s need to offer consumers coziness and comfort. Several designers offered interesting mixes of fabrics with different finishes and other contrasting textures. Prada showed this contrast in the same garment, combining sturdy tweed on the front with embroidered silk on the back.
Moschino
Moschino paired an oversized red and brown cable-knit sweater with gray wool pants that peeked out from under a red skirt with a ruffled hem. The look was completed with a red hat, pearl necklace and sandals.
Luisa Spagnoli
Luisa Spagnoli showed a monochrome look in red that played with the mix of materials: an oversized off-the-shoulder sweater was combined with a sequined skirt, a knitted hat and socks and leather shoes.
Fendi
Taking the play of textures even further, Fendi presented a dark green knit turtleneck sweater with cuffed waist and sleeves paired with a sheer layered skirt with green and pink embellishments and brown leather boots. The model also wore an arm warmer and a mini bag with the Fendi logo.
Prada
At Prada, a gray check double-breasted blazer was paired with a beige silk dress and pink satin slingbacks.
This translated post previously appeared on FashionUnited.uk. Translation and editing: Pia Schulz