Key colors and materials for FW24

Milan Fashion Week for the Fall/Winter 2024 season took place from February 20th to February 26th. Of the 58 collections and a total of 2,742 looks presented, most of the attention was focused on a handful of shows, including those from major fashion houses Prada, Bottega Veneta and Moschino.

Born in Argentina Adrian Appiolaza took over as creative director at Moschino less than four weeks before Fashion Week. His debut collection was a tribute to Franco Moschino, the fashion house’s founder. Appiolaza, who previously worked at the luxury label Loewe for ten years, showed designs that were far removed from the designs of ex-Moschino creative director Jeremy Scott, but refer to the long-standing Scott era with the presence of slogans and smileys and such provided recognition value for brand-loyal customers.

At Bottega Veneta, creative director Matthieu Blazy has achieved real success with his third appearance for the luxury brand. In his own words, he has “taken everyday clothing to its pinnacle.”

And Prada also attracted a lot of attention: It’s not often that US Vogue features a designer on the cover, but an exception was made for the Italian designer Miuccia Prada. Together with co-designer Raf Simons, she has made the bow the focus of her FW24 collection.

The current bow trend, according to social media platform TikTok, reflects Gen Z’s desire to cling to youth and reject the responsibilities of adulthood. At a time when the world is overwhelmed by the question “How old is too old?” Prada has shown that, at 74, she still has her finger on the pulse and knows what’s relevant in the industry.

Blue like the sky

In this rather colorless season, light blue tones appeared as a key color on several catwalks in Milan. The cheerful light blue can stand alone as a color in the dark winter months, or be combined as a neutral tone with other light colors or in a monochrome look.


Bally FW24/Look 44 Image: Bally FW24 ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Bally showed off a mid-length leather shirt dress with a knot detail at the waist in a pale blue. The dress was combined with black wedge shoes and a bright red mini bag.


Blumarine FW24/Look 12
Blumarine FW24/Look 12 Image: Blumarine FW24 ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

A light blue jumpsuit with a polo collar was seen at Blumarine. The one-piece suit made of ribbed knit with lurex threads was completed with a thin necklace tied in a bow, black loafers and also a red leather bag.

Jil Sander

Jil Sander FW24/Look 4
Jil Sander FW24/Look 4 Image: Jil Sander FW24 ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Jil Sander also presented a pale blue dress with rounded sleeves and seam details. Here too, a red bag is worn with the look. A black cap and camel boots complete the look.


Prada FW24/Look 16
Prada FW24/Look 16 Image: Prada FW24 ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

The trend color also appeared on a dress at Prada. The sleeveless turtleneck sheath dress was worn over a white slip dress and featured white flourishes. The model also wore an eye-catching hood decorated with purple feathers and knee-high black boots.

Army color

As in New York, olive green appeared on many catwalks in Milan. The military color, perhaps reflecting current global war conditions, ran across all types of clothing, like an alternative to black.

Alberta Ferretti

Ferretti FW24/Look 16
Ferretti FW24/Look 16 Image: Ferretti FW24 ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Alberta Ferretti showed off an olive green maxi dress with a crew neck, rounded shoulders and a pleated skirt.


Gucci FW24/Look 3
Gucci FW24/Look 3 Image: Gucci FW24 ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

At Gucci, a set of a cashmere tunic with matching shorts and scarf was wrapped in the olive green. The model also wore burgundy leather over-the-knee boots and a lime green mini bag.

MM6 Maison Margiela

MM6 FW24/Look 3
MM6 FW24/Look 3 Image: MM6 FW24 ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

A tunic in the dark color was also shown at Maison Margiela. The sleeveless look with raised shoulder pads was reminiscent of a power suit and was worn over a black slip dress with a frayed hem. Here too, the outfit was rounded off with leather boots that reached up to the model’s thigh.

Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini

Philosophy FW24/Look 11
Philosophy FW24/Look 11 Image: Philosophy FW24 ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

A 1950s-style olive green coat showed up at Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini. The cozy teddy coat with rounded shoulders and statement pearl fastening was paired with a black handbag and matching black leather lace-up shoes.

Red passion

If there was one hue that defined the FW24 season, it was undoubtedly a bright, intense red hue that was ubiquitous not only at New York Fashion Week, but also at European Fashion Weeks. Ferrari’s show notes say: “Red is present… as a reminder of the passion, emotions and desire that the body is capable of.”


Ferrari FW24/Look 3
Ferrari FW24/Look 3 Image: Ferrari FW24 ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Ferrari showed an oversized polo shirt combined with a red patent maxi skirt with a matching bag, gloves and ballerinas made of the same material in the color ‘rosso corsa’.

Sports max

Sportmax FW24/Look 27
Sportmax FW24/Look 27 Image: Sportmax FW24 ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

A red corset-style top made from mohair wool was seen at Sportmax. The top with patent details was paired with a matching skirt that was attached to the top with silver hooks.

Martino Midali

Midali FW24/Look 13
Midali FW24/Look 13 Image: Midali FW24 ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Martino Midali also wore a bright red complete look, consisting of a slim-fitting, mid-length coat, suede boots and a felt hat.


Versace FW24/Look 67
Versace FW24/Look 67 Image: Versace FW24 ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Versace showed off a knee-length red leather dress with a corset and ruffles around the hips. The model wore matching gloves and strappy boots.

Voluminous shoulders

When it came to the choice of fabric, black leather dominated the catwalks in Milan. Unlike previous seasons, the fabric was used to create new voluminous shapes, especially in the shoulder area.

Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta FW24/ Look 25
Bottega Veneta FW24/ Look 25 Image: Bottega Veneta FW24 ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

A black leather dress with rounded shoulders, a slit neckline and a flared skirt was seen at Bottega Veneta. The look was combined with a structured, colored handbag and black shoes.

Ice berg

Iceberg FW24/Look 40
Iceberg FW24/Look 40 Image: Iceberg FW24 ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Iceberg showed off a mid-length black leather coat with large shoulders, black pointed-toe patent leather shoes and a black leather tote bag.

Maison Yoshiki

Maison Yoshiki FW24/Look 14
Maison Yoshiki FW24/ Look 14 Image: Maison Yoshiki FW24 ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Maison Yoshiki presented a leather mini dress with voluminous batwing sleeves and a sash-effect belt. The look was completed with black sneakers and socks.


No.21 FW24/Look 11
No.21 FW24/Look 11 Image: No.21 FW24 ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

At No.21 a double-breasted coat made of black leather appeared with a black pleated skirt and pointed slingbacks.

Texture mix

In a season with little variety in terms of colors and prints, textures were even more important. The mix of textures at Milan Fashion Week also met the season’s need to offer consumers coziness and comfort. Several designers offered interesting mixes of fabrics with different finishes and other contrasting textures. Prada showed this contrast in the same garment, combining sturdy tweed on the front with embroidered silk on the back.


Moschino FW24/Look 7
Moschino FW24/Look 7 Image: Moschino FW24 ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Moschino paired an oversized red and brown cable-knit sweater with gray wool pants that peeked out from under a red skirt with a ruffled hem. The look was completed with a red hat, pearl necklace and sandals.

Luisa Spagnoli

Luisa Spagnoli FW24/Look 19
Luisa Spagnoli FW24/Look 19 Image: Luisa Spagnoli FW24 ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Luisa Spagnoli showed a monochrome look in red that played with the mix of materials: an oversized off-the-shoulder sweater was combined with a sequined skirt, a knitted hat and socks and leather shoes.


Fendi FW24/Look 57
Fendi FW24/Look 57 Image: Fendi FW24 ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Taking the play of textures even further, Fendi presented a dark green knit turtleneck sweater with cuffed waist and sleeves paired with a sheer layered skirt with green and pink embellishments and brown leather boots. The model also wore an arm warmer and a mini bag with the Fendi logo.


Prada FW24/Look 8
Prada FW24/Look 8 Image: Prada FW24 ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

At Prada, a gray check double-breasted blazer was paired with a beige silk dress and pink satin slingbacks.

This translated post previously appeared on Translation and editing: Pia Schulz