V.green, green and still green. It is the dominant color of Umbria, where the healthy and harmonious relationship with nature is ancient, between mountains, hills, perched villages, millenary hermitages and streams that cross woods and valleys, expanses of olive trees and vines. It is a mystical land with sweet and round features, welcoming and jovial. “Spirituality turned out to be a much more solid thing than everything else. Our body and the world we live in, the things that touch, are much more fragile than the spirit, “he says Stefano Massarimental coach of great Italian sports.
The amphitheater in La Scarzuola (Montegabbione) in Umbria, the “ideal city” built on the visionary project of the architect Tomaso Buzzi.
In Umbria, more than anywhere else, it is easy to nourish the soul with beauty, authenticity and amazement. Strong sensations experienced in Scarzuola, the ideal city of the Milanese architect Tomaso Buzzi, built next to a former convent founded by San Francesco in 1218, well hidden in Montegiovane, in the municipality of Montegabbione (Terni). An architectural jewel in tuff, a place of being, between dream and magic, where, in an imaginative theatrical setting, you can admire the aesthetics and the tricks of the construction, we let ourselves be amazed by the allegories on existence and by the Masonic symbolisms or influenced to tears (it often happens) by esoteric references. You enter almost by chance through an anonymous wooden door and it is the thunderous laughter of the landlord, Marco Solari, that immediately makes the difference. It is always and only he, a descendant of the architect, who accompanies the guests.
The interpretation of symbols and metaphors
The facade of the Cathedral of Orvieto in Umbria.
Each visit is different (bookings on: lascarzuola.it), depends on the spirit that is created in the interaction with Solari, a sensitive and solitary man, sometimes incomprehensible due to the intensity of his thought. The duration can vary, never more than two hours, but there is certainly the depth of the explanations and the suggestion of Marco Solari’s stories. The beauty of Orvieto is more explicit, perched on the flat top of a tuff spur overlooking the valley of the Paglia river, which can be captured by exploring the intact tangle of alleys and streetssuddenly opening onto the colored mosaics of the facade of the Duomo and on the surrounding bucolic landscapes. The descent to the archaeological complex of Well of the Cava (pozzodellacava.it), a significant work of hydraulic engineering, but above all that al St. Patrick’s Wellan underground architecture that descends to a depth of 62 meters, almost to counterbalance the 60 meters of the Torre del Moro, erected at the end of the thirteenth century, the period of maximum economic power of the city. The two helical staircases that never meet, of the Pozzo di San Patrizio, were conceived by the brilliant mind of Antonio da Sangallo the Younger in the first half of the 16th century.
Strolling along the river
The lock of Stifone, a village along the bank of the Nera river.
From the ocher of the medieval tuff of Orvieto in a few kilometers they can be reached the chattering waters of the Nera river, which at the height of Stifone, a handful of houses built between the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries for the workers of the Silori family, take on unexpected shades of turquoise and emeraldor. Approaching the river, walking towards the riverbed, you can easily identify the ancient wash houses and, a little further on, the source, where the pump used once to take water remains, now collected in the artificial reservoir. From here we leave for Narni to visit the underground cityfound by chance in 1979 by a group of six young speleologists, who boldly descended into a cavity, discovering a completely frescoed 13th century church, now forgotten for some time. Roberto Ninione of the mythical explorers of the dark, currently looking for a producer to turn their adventure into a film, is part of the association that guides the visits of the place: in his stories he relives the emotion felt when faced with the dungeons of the inquisition and the graffiti of the condemned left engraved on the walls in the eighteenth century. The visit ends inside the old Dominican church, where recently other volunteers have unearthed a perfectly preserved Byzantine mosaic.
The fortifications of the Pope in Umbria
The Rocca Albornoziana stands out on the hill above Narni, dominating the town. It was Cardinal Egidio Albornoz, governor of the Papal State while the Pope was in Avignon, who, studying a safe path for the Pope’s return, had various fortresses built along the borders of the Church State. Eggi, a fortified village a stone’s throw from Spoleto, between the Spoleto and Nera valleys, is worth a stop. In addition to strolling through the narrow streets of the village, the church of the Madonna delle Grazie (late 15th century), adorned with late 15th and early 16th century frescoes, among which the rare depiction of Job plagued and the church of San Michele Arcangelo with frescoes by the Master of Eggi, an anonymous 15th century painter. On sunny afternoons, rays of light enter from the windows of the facade to illuminate the altar of San Giuseppe, creating an evocative atmosphere, at least as much admire the sunset from the hamlet of Campello Alto, a fortified settlement on the top of a steep slope on the Spoleto area.
Descent on the Nera river by rubber dinghy
The village of Scheggino in Umbria.
From Eggi take the Forca di Cerro tunnel to enter Val Nerinaland of artisans, such as the Venenzi family, which for seven generations has been forging iron in village of Monteleone di Spoleto, perfect location for lovers of outdoor sports. In the valley, rafting is practiced, that is the descent on the Nera in a rubber dinghy and canyoning in the gorges of the mountain: among the easiest routes, but always for sportsmen, there is the one in the territory of Piedipaterno, of about 2 hours, or the more demanding one of 3 hours near Scheggino, village-hotel inspired by the principles of eco-sustainable architecture and lapped by the waters of the Nera river of the Valcasana canal. Scheggino is in an excellent position, just 15 minutes from Spoleto, 40 from Norcia and Assisi and 50 from Perugia. In the apartments that are part of the Torre del Nera widespread hotel, renovated with philological rigor, you can breathe an ancient and at the same time comfortable atmosphere.
The Basilica of San Francesco, in Assisi.
The itinerary ends at Assisi, a medieval city in almost every stone, but above all a Franciscan city in its fame and spiritual atmosphere, place where the pacifist lesson of the Poverello of Assisi is always renewed. From a distance it appears to be an integral part of the mountain, while up close it appears as a cascade of churches, houses and bell towers.
Where to sleep in Umbria
Torre del Nera Widespread hotel & Spa
Scheggino (Perugia). Twelve rooms and 16 apartments hidden in the medieval village which is preserved intact between the ancient walls and a glimpse of still wild nature. With easy access to the services of the main building, staying in the houses offers an experience of other times. Double from 125 euros. torredelnera.it
The central body of the Torre del Nera multi-building hotel, in the village of Scheggino.
Tre Monti farmhouse
Meggiano di Vallo di Nera (Perugia). In a stone house, just before the mountains, surrounded by pastures and woods. Double from 80 euros. agriturismotremonti.com
Sorella Luna Gallery Hotel
Assisi (Perugia). A few meters from the Basilica of San Francesco. In the common rooms, with exposed stone, the paintings of local artists are exhibited. Double from 90 euros. hotelsorellaluna.it
Where to eat in Umbria
Osteria Baciafemmine
Scheggino (Perugia). Housed in ancient cellars. The specialties are truffles and brown trout. orsteriabaciafemminescheggino.it
The Seven Consuls
Orvieto (Terni). In the heart of the historic center. On the menu pan-fried pigeon, served with brioche bread, foie escalope and spinach. isetteconsoli.it
The Frantoio
Assisi (Perugia). Panoramic veranda and the most beautiful garden in the city. Star: extra virgin olive oil, the basis of the recipes of chef Lorenzo Cantoni. ristoranteilfrantoioassisi.it
What to do
Visits with Stefano Ferrari, archaeologist and tour guide [email protected]
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