T.it all started with industrial espionage. It is said that in the eighteenth century the enterprising Czech brothers Fišer (or Fisher) in disguise worked for years as apprentice glassmakers in Murano to grasp the techniques of processing, of which the Venetians were undisputed masters for centuries. Returned to their homeland, in 1711 introduced the secrets of crystal cutting and polishing to North Bohemia. It was a success. The historical traces of the true genesis of the production of the precious, transparent material, chemically an “amorphous solid”, contrast with this chronicle-legend of yesteryear, perhaps a little fictionalized, in Northern Bohemia.
Clear and transparent, like Bohemian crystal
A glimpse of Liberec with the Castle.
In short, if in the thirteenth century some monks began blowing to create glasses and utensils, after the invention of “crystalline glass” by the Murano artist Angelo Barovier, from 1460 onwards the glass masters of the Serenissima were requested everywhere in Europe to spread their know and open furnaces. Including the Czech Republic. And that’s exactly where from 1667 the innovative lead-free production appeared (used instead by the Murano “competitors”) which allowed the carving of the glass to the wheel to also create the typical facets of precious stones. It was the birth of Bohemian crystal. Since then, chandeliers, jewels and various objects, from the Baroque style to modern design, have been the excellence of the manufacturing activity of the Bohemian Liberec region on the border with Poland and Germany, 100 kilometers north of Prague. But why did the art of glassmaking develop in this area? Easy, here, we find the synthesis between nature and artisan creativity. The territory, which was a prehistoric sea, preserves in its bowels abundant natural resources: limestone, silica, sandstone sands, quartz, elements which, combined with gypsum and potassium carbonate, contribute to realization of the glittering artifacts.
At school with master glassmakers
Crystal processing in Harrachov, North Bohemia.
A tradition that has also been consolidated in the school system, with the opening of glass schools: currently there are ten in the Czech Republic, of which six in the Liberec region. But not only. The district, profiled by mountain groups Lužické (Lusatian Mountains), Jizera and Krkonoše (Giant Mountains)has become in recent years an identifying brand of the territory with the name Crystal Valley, the Crystal Valley. A district still little known by tourism. Still, realize a tour in the region is stimulating: to go shopping in the numerous forges and shops scattered almost everywhere, to immerse yourself in the slow 50s atmosphere of small villages, and in the still intact landscape. As to Harrachov, a country devoted to skiing in winter (especially cross-country skiing), surrounded by the Giant Mountains, the highest mountain range in the Czech state. From the small town, the perception of enjoying a wild place improves by taking a signposted path that winds through a dense forest and leads in about twenty minutes to the Mumlava waterfallIn the Krkonošský národní park national park.
The spectacle of glass blowing
The Krhonoše Tree Top Walk, Giant Mountains.
Walking among very tall fir trees and breathing deeply the light air that smells of resin, we understand that the natural habitat has also been preserved for geopolitical reasons. We are a few kilometers from the Polish border, and at the time of the Soviet bloc (until 1992) the area was guarded by the Czechoslovakian army, therefore, even for security reasons, nothing could be built. A diktat fortunately remained. Still in the immense National Park, it is also worth discovering the spectacular Krhonoše Tree Top Walk (stezkakrkonose.cz/en) eco-sustainable wooden structure in the shape of a tower that allows you to admire the landscape from the top of its 45 meters high. Returning to Harrachov, one encounters the Novosad & Syn glassworks (en.sklarnaharrachov.cz). In business since 1712, it is the oldest in Bohemia. Equipped with a company shop, a hotel, a brewery and a museum that exhibits over five thousand artifacts, it is visited by tourists who want to witness the glass blowing, performed with skill by 25 master glassmakers in front of incandescent ovens operating 24 hours a day. 24. A curiosity: to compensate for the heat of the furnaces, Bohemian glassmakers drink an average of five liters of light beer a day to replenish mineral salts and vitamins. In fact, the landscape of the region is littered with smoking brick chimneys, a visual and tangible sign of the presence of the breweries, often adjacent to the artisan forges.
Installation in the Pačinek Glass Garden, in Kunratice u Cvikova.
Another surprise, in the territory of the Krkonoše mountains, is Poniklá, a peaceful village with few houses and soulsfamous for the craftsmanship of the beads, registered in December 2020 in the list of “Unesco Intangible Cultural Heritage”. A prestigious recognition that rewards this centuries-old production unique in the world, once used for necklaces, brooches and to decorate ceremonial dresses. Today it is carried out by the Rautis company (rautis.cz) that has specialized throughout the year in Christmas and holiday decorations, with an annual production of about 150 thousand pieces declined in 20 thousand models. An incredible manual precision work for these small spheres not only blown, but also silver and colored.
That spaceship on Mount Ještěd
Moving into the territory of the Jizera mountains (Jizerské hory), in Horní Hanychov a cable car takes you to the summit of Mount Ještěd (1012 meters) whose profile is characterized by the gigantic “inverted funnel”, the futuristic structure on the top designed by the architect Karel Hubáček, which houses a hotel-restaurant and the telecommunications tower. The mountain, accessible in winter for ski activities, is also a magnificent viewpoint to enjoy the view. From here it is enough to travel six kilometers to get to Liberec, a city of 105,000 inhabitants that gave the Bohemian region its name. It is a lively city, with an elegant allure expressed in the architectural style of the private residences of the late 19th century, which testify to the flourishing textile industry of the time, and from the magnificent Town Hall overlooking the Náměstí square Dr. E. Beneše. The building gives a nod to the Viennese one with hand-painted stained glass windows and a 61 meter high tower. The city, set of the TV series Genius dedicated to Albert Einstein, exhibits in via Felberova a Renaissance castle in red bricksand also struts for the botanical garden and for the seventeenth-century Wallenstein houses, built in half-timbered wood, to be admired and photographed in Větná street. Finally, moving to Jablonec nad Nisou (13 kilometers from Liberec) in Glass Museum you can admire splendid artifacts. The museum opened in 1904 in an ancient palace, expanded in 2020 with a new exhibition area. Of course, in the shape of a crystal drop.
Where to sleep in Bohemia
Clarion Grandhotel Zlatý Lev
Liberec. Inaugurated in 1906, it retains the Art Nouveau façade. It offers 117 classic-style rooms. Double room in b & b from 88 euros. clariongrandhotelzlatylev.com
Orea Resort Sklář
Harrachov. Comfortable mountain hotel, set against the backdrop of the Giant Mountains (Krkonoše). The structure with spa and space for children, is ideal for walking and cross-country skiing. Double from 79 euros. resortsklar.cz
Where to eat
Ještěd
At the top of the Ještěd mountain restaurant with a particular circular shape, completely glazed. Great food and spectacular mountain views. It is inserted in the complex of the Hotel Ještěd, with an inverted cone structure. jested.cz
Radniční Sklípek
Liberec. Spectacular restaurant under the town hall. Between columns and vaulted ceiling, you can enjoy pork shank, tartare with quail eggs, fillet of beef with blueberries. radnicni-sklipek.cz
What to buy
Pačinek Glass
Kunratice u Cvikova. Glassware known for contemporary design. To visit the “Glass Garden” with large installations and the adjoining church which exhibits the company’s works. pacinekglass.com
Palace Plus
Jablonec nad Nisou. A huge space to choose glasses, costume jewelery and objects in crystal, made by craftsmen. palaceplus.cz
Info
visitczechrepublic.com, crystalvalley.cz/en
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