THEn Salento, to Johann Hermann Von Riedesel, diplomat of the court of Frederick II of Prussia, the stone with which the churches and houses of Lecce are built looked like plasticine: “This stone when it comes out of the quarry is soft and decorations are easily made on it as if it were wax” he comments astonished in front of the squiggles and sparkling scrolls that run over the churches, palaces, balconies of the Salento citya style so unique that it deserves the adjective as a sign of uniqueness.
More than two centuries later, the Lecce baroque continues to enchant visitors that enter the ancient heart of the city through Porta Napoli, one of the three entrances to protect the historic center. Via Giuseppe Palmieri, crowded with craft shops with a city esprit, leads to Piazza Duomo. Here they overlook the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta and the Seminary building: look into the courtyard, there is a small well that looks like a fruit basket and, on the left, the chapel dedicated to San Gregorio Taumaturgo it is an exuberant seventeenth-century masterpiece of flowers and decorations that escapes most tourists.
Salento from above
The bell tower of the cathedral of Lecce. (Press Office)
A novelty, access to the Campanile del Duomo, thanks to a spectacular redevelopment project, a collaboration between the Artwork social cooperative, which aims to create development opportunities in the area, the Superintendency and the Vicariate. With a work of refined engineering it was possible to build an elevator that runs inside a double tower, in order to keep the precious structure of 1682 in anti-seismic safety. Just inaugurated, takes visitors to a height of 43 meters to enjoy a 360 degree view of Lecce and Salento, thanks also to the interactive panels and binoculars with pointers that tell the story of the framed sites. On chieselecce.it tickets for the bell tower (separately) and access to a pool of monuments that are the highest expression of the Baroque: Duomo, Santa Croce, Santa Chiara (with its precious papier-mâché false ceiling), San Matteo… Not to be missed, starting in July, the immersive experience of lights and shadows in Santa Croce: you enter in total darkness, gradually the lights come on, until the final dazzling illumination, an almost mystical experience.
Lecce, coffee “on ice” and pasticciotti
Piazza Sant’Oronzo in Lecce, the ruins of the Roman amphitheater, the Sedile and Palazzo del Seggio, by Alessandro Saponaro (16th century) and the Church of San Marco (16th century). On the left the building of the INA, of fascist architecture. (Getty Images)
Scrolling down via Vittorio Emanuele II you get to Piazza Sant’Oronzo, patron saint of the city. Here the Roman Amphitheater makes a show; next to it the Greek Church, built by Greek merchants who carried out their business in the square. At Caffè Alvino, the city lounge, the people of Lecce enjoy “coffee on ice”with almond milk. And maybe a pasticciotto, the city glory of crumbly shortcrust pastry and custard. Two little-known curiosities: in Piazzetta Giosuè Carducci, the former Palmieri boarding school houses the Fabbrica delle parole, a museum dedicated to the art of printing, with an exhibition of ancient printing machines. And, in the same location, we discover the Carmelo Bene archive, the histrionic playwright, local and national glory. The room hosts costumes and stage accessories from operas such as Othello, Riccardo III, La cena delle beffe… and personal items of the great innovator of the Italian theater (reservation for both at 0832. 373576).
Salento between sea and history
Left the city, route to the sea and the Caribbean beaches of Salento. Here, with the ironic brazenness of those who can afford it, you choose the beach depending on where the wind blows: if Tramontana you go towards the Ionian Sea, if Scirocco on the Adriatic. On the Adriatic, towards Otranto, there are the beaches of Torre dell’Orso, Torre Sant’Andrea, degli Alimini and Baia dei Turchi. Further down, Punta Palascìa, jutting out over the Otranto canal, is the most eastern geographical point of Italy: on a clear day you can see the mountains of Greece and Albania. We are so close that, beware, the Greek signal could trap your mobile!
The sea of Otranto. (Press Office)
In Otranto, the 11th century Cathedral is a sight. It reconciles Byzantine, Romanesque and Gothic elements, above all it preserves an amazing mosaic floor, one of the most important mosaic cycles of the Italian Middle Ages. A theological labyrinth of about 16 meters which has the Tree of Life as its central figure, a true encyclopedia of medieval images and culture that has intrigued illustrious scholars. And the Levantine inspiration of the writer Ornella Albanese: in The dark mosaic (Read editor) weaves an ancient and mysterious story that hides the solution of dark crimes in the mosaic.
Diet can wait
The walk on the ramparts, full of clubs and nightlife, up to the Torre Matta from which you can see the Palazzo dei Mori is suggestive. With the unpredictable and somewhat Gascon air blowing in these parts, it is not surprising that a small navy museum is kept in a hotel, the Corte di Nettuno: ancient rudders, portholes, compasses, figureheads, amphorae, a precious collection of pipes of foam. From here you can reach the lunar bauxite quarry and the beaches of the coast.
The Bauxite quarry near Otranto. (Getty Images)
TO Porto Badisco, after the sea, is the traditional sandwich with mortadella and cheese at the “da Carlo” bar / food shopa much appreciated ritual judging by the queue (there is also much more to eat in this tavern, tel. 0836. 811608). Any desire for a diet here succumbs in the presence of pittule, cottages, fried fish and pucce, the jewels of Salento street food. Or the more elaborate cuisine, from the scurdijata of legumes to chickpeas and tria, from vegetables in oil to the renowned fresh pasta, including the famous orecchiette. A lot of fun is learning how to make them, following the recipe and the quick fingers of housewives who explain how it’s all a matter of inches. At the Marenea Suite Hotel, in Marina di Marittima, in a strategic position on our itinerary, the hotel organizes cooking classes of orecchiette and “cannulated sagne”. In an elevated position surrounded by olive trees, it mixes on the terrace overlooking Greece. After the effort, a dip on the beach, at Lido Ficò or in the delightful Acquaviva cove.
Orecchiette and fresh Salento pasta course at the Al Marenea Suite Hotel, in Marina di Marittima. (Press Office)
In the presence of an ancient oak
In the neighbor Marina di Castro, also famous for mussels and fried food, the rocky sea, which was Aeneas’ landing place after the destruction of Troy, has colors ranging from blue to turquoise. In Castro Superiore, at 98 meters, the excavations in the Hellenistic fortification, currently active and visible, brought to light in 2008 a bronze statuette of Minerva and then, in 2015, a huge stone bust of the goddess, preserved in the Archaeological Museum in the castle.
A glimpse of Castro. (Press Office)
Towards the center flow white houses, red flowers and hanging clothes; in Piazza della Vittoria, in front of the remains of the Byzantine Church, there is a lounge of cafes for aperitifs and dinner, and small craft shops. After, a trip to Santa Cesarea Terme, where you can admire the cliffs and, to conclude (and dispose of a couple of fried food), a bit of movement. With e-bikes (you can rent them on yuniqly.it) we aim for Tricase. Here, on the green-blue sea, the Castle of the port takes center stage, all pink. Not far away, the natural swimming pool of Marina Serra is incredibly beautiful… But you will have to contend with the locals who consider it a personal dependance. Apulian hospitality is well known and you will not be denied a bath. Otherwise, pedaling inland you can reach and admire the monumental Vallonea oak, a 700-year-old “lady” under whose branches, according to legend, Frederick II rested. You too can rest admiring it. Tomorrow is still Salento.
Where to sleep in Salento
Marenea Suite Hotel
Marina of Marittima. In a panoramic position, 25 rooms with sea view terraces immersed in a natural park. Cooking class and yoga lessons among the olive trees, massages in the greenery by the pool; beach service with golf car. In the La Terrazza sul mare restaurant, chef Mirko Monteduro re-elaborates the flavors of the territory with zero-kilometer products. Double in b & b starting from 260 euros per night. mareneasuitehotel.com; cdshotels.it
Hotel Corte di Nettuno
Otranto. In a historic Salento courtyard, 300 meters from the castle, a boutique hotel with themed furnishings and a rich collection of maritime antiques. In the restaurant, also open to outsiders, chef Giorgio Deriu offers seafood cuisine revisited with flair. Must try: broad bean and chicory cream with red shrimp. Double in b & b starting from 130 euros per night. cortedinettuno.it
Grand Hotel Riviera. (Photo: Dario Rovere • studio dariorovere)
Where to eat
Trattoria da Iolanda
Lucugnano. At the age of 87, the owner “sits down and gets tired” and she runs the kitchen with her three children. A simple and delicious tavern attached to the ancient house of the poet Girolamo Comi. trattoriaiolanda.com
The other mustache
Otranto. Close to the Cathedral but quite secluded, the chef and owner Cristina Conte gives a contemporary touch to Salento cuisine: from octopus in scapece with zabaglione to saffron to carbonara with sea urchins. laltrabaffo.com
CDS Hotels Basiliani
What to buy in Salento
Earth Fire Card
Lecce. Workshop of the papier-mâché craftswoman Stefania Guarascio. Statuettes and bijoux, in via dei Perroni, 20. tel. 338 214 6156.
Artisan workshop of Tamburelli di Biagio Panico
Torrepaduli. A master of frame drums for the pizzica. biagiopanico.it
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