P.valuable, indispensable, multifaceted and… it always melts. It is the ephemeral and ancient white gold, salt, which has marked the life of man over time. Flying over the centuries, at the time of the Romans for its transport the Via Salaria was created, a consular road of about 200 kilometers, to connect the Adriatic Marche with Rome and the transfers were carried out by the soldiers of the legions paid with a ration of salt, the salarium, etymology of the word “salary”. In India, on the other hand, in 1930 the “Salt March” promoted by Gandhi took place, who traveled over 300 kilometers on foot to the Indian Ocean to protest against the salt tax-monopoly imposed by the British Empire.
Marsala. Saline di Ettore. (Photo Alfio Garozzo)
Whether it is rock salt (extracted from the rock, from mines) or the sea (obtained with the evaporation of water in the marine lagoons) its use is infinite.. On the streets to encourage thaw, in the construction industry to produce tiles, or in textiles to fix the color, in spas for scrubs and massages, and of course in the kitchen to flavor and preserve food, produce sausages, cook fish and crusted meats , or to give a delicious touch to dark chocolate, caramel and pistachio ice creams. Not to mention that different varieties are increasingly common on the table that catch the eye for the colors, and here is the pink of the Himalayas, the red of Hawaii, the blue of Persia, the black of Cyprus, the gray of Denmark. To all this is added tourism. Already, the salt pans, in addition to being the identity of the territories to which they belong, have become tourist attractions for travelers who “remain of salt”, amazed, by the magnetic view given off by the landscapes between water and land. Even in the beautiful country.
Salt pans between windmills and archaeological sites
In Western Sicily about ten kilometers from Marsala, Saline Ettore and Infersa are the most dreamlike and instagrammed in the Mare Nostrumespecially at sunset, when the stretches of water, framed by canals, white mounds of salt and three sixteenth-century windmills, become one with the red and orange sky. A unique vision, to be contemplated while sipping a spritz or a prosecco among the outdoor tables of the restaurant Mother Caura, a must in the area. But before the aperitif you must not miss the visit to the Infersa Mill which captures the attention with the museum on the world of saliculture and salt workersthe multimedia path and the shop that offers unusual bijoux made with salt dough.
The boat tour is also unmissable, starting near the mill and leading between the opposite ones Islands of the Stagnone inserted in the homonymous Nature Reserve. Among the four islands, overlooking the internal lagoon, the star is Motya – or San Pantaleo – which was an important Phoenician colony. As evidenced by the archaeological site and the Whitaker Museum, from the name of the Italian ornithologist archaeologist of British origins (1850-1936) who bought the islet to promote archaeological excavations. In the museum, the Stendhal syndrome materializes in front of the Hellenic marble sculpture of the 5th century BC of the “Giovinetto di Mozia” (1.81 meters high, it was found without upper limbs and feet) which seduces for the refinement of details such as the pleated chiton on the sturdy body. Returning to Marsala we stroll through the pedestrianized historic centerbetween Baroque monuments and the “quick-change” fish market: in the evening it becomes the place for an aperitif offered in the premises open around the daytime stands of the fishermen.
The basins of the salt pan of Margherita di Savoia, in Puglia. (Getty Images)
Moving in Puglia, the queen of salt is Margherita pizza of Savoy which boasts the largest salt pans in Europe still in activity: about 4,500 hectares for 20 kilometers in length and 5 in width. Dating back to the 4th century BC after periods of abandonment and reopening, in the eighteenth century they resumed with new vigor and appearance thanks to the architect Luigi Vanvitelli (1700-1773) who redesigned them. Visible with guided tours, among reeds and tanks you can spot white, gray and red herons, marsh harriers, spoonbills, cormorants, and the inevitable pink flamingos. The sea joins this wonder, an irresistible call in the summer and in Puglia it is fantastic. In these parts you can go to the long beach of the town that has obtained the recognition of “Blue Flag 2022” for the ninth consecutive year, or take the route to Garganowhose beaches are a hymn to relaxation, like Morning, Bay of Zagare And Vignanotica. For historical-cultural stops, however, the most interesting destinations are: Canes of the Battle (21 kilometers away), Barletta (to 24), Trani (at 35) and the mysterious Castel del Monte (to 55).
A pinch of salt … sweet
Going up the Adriatic coasttowards the north, here Cervia in Riviera Romagnola more authentic. The history of the delightful locality is linked to the production of salt famous for its “sweetness” which is determined by a low, or almost non-existent, presence of more bitter chlorides (in addition to sodium chloride), such as magnesium sulphate, calcium , potassium and magnesium chloride. The salt pan of Cervia – extending over 827 hectares – the northernmost in Italyis included in thehomonymous Nature Reserve, and is considered the “south gate” of Po Delta Park. In the protected area, a refuge for about a hundred ornithological species, guided tours are organized at the Visitor Center, including by bicycle. Moving in the pedestrian historic center, however, you can distinguish the Bridge of the gates and the San Michele Tower facing On the canal. Fortified and dating back to the seventeenth century, it is adjacent to the old warehouse transformed in Museum of Salt, keeper of artifacts and documents that testify to the ancient activity linked to white gold. For bathing fun, on the other hand, there are the nine kilometers of the coast Cervese which includes the beaches of Pinarella, Cut And Milano Marittima.
The Darsena del Sale, in Cervia, Emilia Romagna. (Photo by Lorenzo Pennati)
The scenery changes again in the Southern Sardinia. Between Quartu Sant’Elena And Cagliarthe, near the Poetto beach, the ancient salt pans extend. Decommissioned in 1985, today they make up the Molentargius-Saline Park: 1,600 hectares that have become the “home” of rest, wintering and nesting of water birds, primarily pink flamingos. A paradise for birdwatchers, to be discovered on foot, by bicycle, by electric minibus, or by boat along the canals of the salt pans. They are also worth exploring Cagliarikeeper ofold quarter fortified Castleand along the coast the wonderful beaches how Chaff, Chia, Cala Cipolla, Tuerreddawith the sea come on tropical colors.
A flamingo in Tuerredda, Sardinia. (Getty Images)
Where to eat and sleep in Marsala
The Terrace on the Saline
Contrada Ettore Infersa. Local with a large outdoor area and a suggestive view of the salt pans. It offers local cuisine: Trapani-style busiate (pasta), pasta with clams, red prawns from Mazara, fish cous cous. laterrazzasullesaline.it
Baglio Oneto of the Princes of San Lorenzo
Contrada Baronazzo Amafi 8. Charming 5-star residence in a former 18th century beam about six kilometers from the salt pans. Located on a hill, it offers 47 rooms (the suite in the tower is wonderful) immersed in silence, a swimming pool with a panoramic view of the Stagnone Islands, and an amazing breakfast, with a great variety of freshly baked pastries. Double room in b & b from € 273. bagliooneto.it
Eat and sleep in Margherita di Savoia
Lido Apulia
Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo, corner of via Cirio. Bathhouse with fish restaurant. On the menu there are also excellent Apulian products, such as podolic caciocavallo, Altamura bread and Andria burrata. lidoapulia.it
Copacabana Hotel Design
via Principe Amedeo 1. In the historic center, a pleasant 3-star hotel a few tens of meters from the sea, with a panoramic roof terrace and minimal-contemporary furnishings. Under the same ownership is the Copacabana Suite lido with restaurant. Double room in b & b from 108 €. copacabanahoteldesign.com
Eating and sleeping in Cervia
Il Moro
via Pinarella 115, Historic trattoria with outdoor area, offers Romagna cuisine, where there is no shortage of homemade wraps, tagliatelle and cappelletti. ilmoro.net
Villa del Mare Spa Resort
Lungomare Grazia Deledda 84. Elegant 4-star hotel surrounded by white, rooftop on the 7th floor with infinity pool, bar and restaurant. Contemporary furnishings, gourmet cuisine with regional and international specialties, Spa and private beach. Double in b & b from 190 €. villadelmaresparesort.com
What to do at the Cervia salt pans
Salt dock
piazzale dei Salinari 1-viale A. Oriani 12. Spectacular multifunctional space developed in over 20 thousand square meters in a former salt warehouse. Overlooking the city canal, it offers a restaurant, bar, day spa, live shows. darsenadelsale.com
This stretch of sea near the beach of Tuerredda, in Sardinia. (Getty Images)
Eating and sleeping in Cagliari
Luigi Pomata
viale Regina Margherita 18. Gourmet restaurant, with a panoramic view of the harbor, offers traditional-creative cuisine: spelled pasta with 3 tomatoes, black tortelloni with borage, zola and walnuts, swordfish with mustard, luigipomata.com
The Place Cagliari
via Sant’Efisio 59. In a 19th century building in the historic center, in the Stampace district: 6 rooms with retro and modern furnishings. Double room in b & b from 123 €. theplacecagliari.net
iO Donna © REPRODUCTION RESERVED