Jos Berry on the lingerie and color trends for AW25/26

The trade show season is in full swing and took over the fashion capital Paris from January 20th to 23rd, where organizer WSN organized a series of cross-category trade shows packed with established and emerging brands. One of these events, the Salon International de la Lingerie, brought with it an expanded version of its sister fair Interfilière, where renowned trend expert Jos Berry, founder and creative director of Concepts Paris, took to the stage and presented a selection of the expected AW25/26 market trends introduced.

During the talk, Berry noted that “color has become an important part of the storytelling” of macro trends. She repeated: “You can’t say the key color is red, green or brown. You have to say: what for? Where does it lead? What’s the story behind it?” Together with her team of trend specialists, Berry compiled the storytelling colors that will influence the lingerie, activewear and loungewear scenes in the coming season and shared them with the Interfilière audience.

Hyperrealism and beyond reality: 5 color trends that show the way

wintering

Collection by Juana Martín, Dion Lee, Han Kjøbenhavn, Tia Adeola, Anne Isabella and Rui. Image: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

“The first group is very, very pale, but you have to see that paleness in conjunction with wonderful changes in volume,” Berry began. And indeed, “Hibernation” was all about beige and pastel tones combined with large, cozy surfaces and delicate decorations. Berry pointed out that such colors can also work with metallic effects, such as a modern pearlescent.

Beyond reality

Collections by Mugler, JW Anderson, Sinéad O'Dwyer, Weinsanto and Mame Kurogouchi.
Collections from Mugler, JW Anderson, Sinéad O’Dwyer, Weinsanto and Mame Kurogouchi. Image: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

The more mystical theme “Beyond Reality” revolves around the contrast between light and darkness, with optical illusions and shadow effects being the main feature of this trend. While “Hibernation” was associated with delicacy, the design on this theme was rather heavy-handed, moving between transparent and opaque.

metamorphosis

Collections by Des Phemmes, Coperni, Ottolinger, Saint Sintra, Victoria Beckham and Anrealage.
Collections from Des Phemmes, Coperni, Ottolinger, Saint Sintra, Victoria Beckham and Anrealage. Image: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

For “Metamorphosis,” Berry said, commercial floral design was to enter a new era. Therefore, she recommended reprinting, re-stitching and re-adapting the standard pattern, with a special emphasis on the color purple. “Purple is one of those colors that can be found everywhere,” she concluded.

Fragments of love

Collections by Tommy Hilfiger, Chopova Lowena, Marras, Vaillant, Vivienne Westwood and Lazoschmidl.
Collections from Tommy Hilfiger, Chopova Lowena, Marras, Vaillant, Vivienne Westwood and Lazoschmidl. Image: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Family and home are the main inspirations for “Fragments of love”, with the fusion of lingerie, fashion and homeware becoming increasingly evident. For Berry, this change is being driven by younger companies that are “pushing the boundaries of classifications” and bringing fashion and lingerie into an individualistic lifestyle movement.

Go beyond time

Collections by Vivienne Westwood, Stamm, Coach, Mowalola, Kay Kwok and Coperni.
Collections from Vivienne Westwood, Stamm, Coach, Mowalola, Kay Kwok and Coperni. Image: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

There is no denying that the upcoming Olympics in Paris will have a certain impact on the fashion world of the French capital and that can only be positive for Berry, as she said that such an event represents the essence of the new that the industry has already accepted, will only advance further. Here the design will “transcend time” in the form of pop colors and bright activewear with enormous expressiveness through the multicultural mix.

Loungewear, warm clothing and modern constructions: future-oriented product categories

In the final part of her presentation, Berry went into further detail on several upcoming trends and highlighted the possibilities for fabrics and goods through potential product category expansions.

Knitwear, loungewear and warmwear

Collections by Namesake FW24, Nina Ricci SS24, Victoria Beckham SS24.
Collections of Namesake FW24, Nina Ricci SS24, Victoria Beckham SS24. Image: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

“Knitwear is the driving force in the crossover market,” Berry began, noting that the mix between ready-to-wear, luxury and loungewear is evident, with the latter also moving into a more casual space. Textures such as jacquards, blister effects, quilt knits and draping are leading the way in terms of materials here, while on a global scale huge temperature swings have also contributed to the shifts.

So the emerging market for warm clothing or “warmwear” is on the rise and has influenced the comeback of Merino wool and thermal technology. However, as Berry notes, they still rely on lightweight materials, which she says are “currently an important benchmark for modernity.”

Multi-wear evolution

Collections by Acne Studios SS24, Alaia SS24 and Carolina Herrera SS24.
Collections Acne Studios SS24, Alaia SS24 and Carolina Herrera SS24. Image: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

These voluminous, lightweight pieces are intended to be paired with multi-wear, Berry says, a category bolstered by companies like Skims that have seen an influx of camisole and T-shirt dresses hit the market. “This is the moment when we talk about the 24-7 wardrobe,” says Berry. This trend ensures that the wardrobe adapts to the needs and changing lifestyle, with travel-friendly requirements and a mix of casual and seductive.

Dark romance and contemporary constructions

Dolce&Gabanna SS24, Valentino Pre-Fall 24, Isabel Marant SS24.
Dolce&Gabanna SS24, Valentino Pre-Fall 24, Isabel Marant SS24. Image: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

“Seduction is back,” said Berry. While this is defined by the use of black lace in the design, which has seen a number of more sustainable production innovations, Berry said it is also in the way a Such a trend is communicated. The representation of lingerie is less about a woman who seduces you and more about an active, lively and combative woman who attracts attention.

However, the quintessentially French lingerie is updated either with modern constructions – with interlock knits, light meshes and sheer lace – or with an explosion of highly decorated embroideries that combine beading, 3D effects and metallic effects.

Grunge and bold design

Dilara Findikoglu FW23, Collina Strada SS24, Maison Margiela FW23.
Dilara Findikoglu FW23, Collina Strada SS24, Maison Margiela FW23. Image: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

One of the last trends Berry touched on was one that is particularly reflected in the new Generation Alpha, which is turning away from societal norms – now promoting pajamas as outerwear – and pursuing an anti-minimalism movement. “It’s a time of differentiation, and design plays a huge role in that,” says Berry. Young designers are at the forefront of this trend and have also driven the comeback of accessories that only emphasize the necessary maximalism.

This translated post previously appeared on FashionUnited.uk

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