Attending a fashion school provides aspiring designers with a solid platform to explore design techniques, learn fundamental methods, and master important skills. However, it is not the only path to success in the fashion industry. In fact, some of the most famous fashion designers in history never attended design school.
Poised to follow in the footsteps of visionary designers like Karl Lagerfeld, Giorgio Armani and Manolo Blahnik, 28-year-old Los Angeles designer and stylist Jonathan Marc Stein didn’t go to design school — at least not for fashion design. When he watched a 1990s Alexander McQueen runway show before class while studying mechanical engineering, he felt called to pursue this creative interest and has never looked back since.
With the launch of his eponymous brand in 2017, Jonathan has become one of the most important emerging designers, combining elegance with innovative flair in his couture designs. His designs have been featured in Harper’s Bazaar, L’Officiel and Cosmopolitan, worn by celebrities such as Mackenzie Ziegler and Laura Marano at major events and presented at international fashion weeks.
FashionUnited spoke to the young designer after the launch of his Fall/Winter 2023 collection to find out more about his rise to fame, being self-taught and building a brand.
When did you first realize that you wanted to be a fashion designer?
JMS: I felt like I had no choice but to become an engineer. I had to become either a doctor, a lawyer or an engineer. So I went to engineering school. During my sophomore year of college, I was waiting for one of my classes to start and scrolling through YouTube to pass the time. I came across an Alexander McQueen runway show from 1997 and it really impressed me. I’ve always been interested in art. I’ve always painted and drawn, and the artistic side of the show inspired me to teach myself how to sew. From then on, I sewed, bought fabrics and sewed clothes between classes. A year later, I was invited to show at Columbus Fashion Week and everything just grew organically from there.
How does your technical background influence or shape your design approach?
JMS: Many people are surprised by the correlation between the two, but there are so many similarities. There is actually a lot of math involved in fashion design. Mathematics is the key to precise measurements to ensure the perfect fit. In addition, you cannot ignore physics – the weight and structure of the substance must be in balance. For example, if I’m designing a heavy 100-pound bustier, the right combination of materials is critical to ensure it is supportive, well-fitting and aesthetically pleasing.
What are the challenges and benefits of being a self-taught fashion designer?
That is a difficult question. Although I lack the technical foundation of a formal fashion design education and have not received instruction on fabrics, garment structure, and pattern making, this does provide a unique advantage. I think this gave me a creative edge that I might not have developed otherwise. Similar to how I solved a math problem differently in school but still came up with the right answer, my lack of traditional training allows me to be innovative. Through trial and error, I develop my own methods and create beautiful pieces without relying on conventional techniques.
However, my non-traditional fashion background means I have to constantly learn from the ground up. I had to learn every technical detail myself, from sewing methods to the use of supports for the structure. Although I figured everything out myself, the downside is the time I invested in self-learning and experimentation.
What are some of the fundamental elements that make up your women’s and men’s clothing collections?
When I design collections in my studio, the process and result often change from season to season. However, my style has evolved to the point that all collections have common elements. Leather has always been my favorite material and runs like a common thread through all the collections I design. I often use metallic hardware such as buckles, chains, rivets and decorative zippers, to name a few. I even combine these components in many of my clothes. I think it’s nice to combine these edgy and textured materials with more delicate and feminine materials like flowing silk, sheer tulle or even organza.
What makes leather your favorite medium for fashion?
I find that leather is one of the few materials that can take on so many different forms. It is so versatile that it can be sturdy and thick or feminine and delicate, unlike silk which is more fluid and soft. While the fabric choices are limited for suits, leather effortlessly manages the balancing act between pretty, edgy, delicate and structured, and that’s what I like most about leather.
How do you balance your use of leather with current views on sustainability?
Of course, it can be difficult to balance sustainability and my love for leather. Vegan leather, often made of plastic, isn’t particularly durable and poses an environmental challenge, but I’ve partnered with an ethical supplier. They source the leather as a byproduct of the meat industry, ensuring it doesn’t go to waste. They are environmentally certified, use 100 percent recycled water, have a minimal carbon footprint, and are 90 percent solar powered. Given the significant global waste in the fashion industry, this approach seems to me to be the most responsible at the moment, although I am considering future alternatives to maintain this balance in my collections.
My current AW 2023 collection has the lowest ecological footprint yet. I used 80-90 percent recycled or no longer needed fabrics. The patterns, like that of the DAN/IEL jacket, are designed to produce as little waste as possible. The designs are block-shaped and avoid darts, so there are few scraps of fabric that I reuse. All metal parts are recycled and transport is carried out exclusively by electric vehicles. I’m committed to making these small changes to drive industry-wide change.
Looking back, how would you say your design style has evolved over the years?
There is a big difference between my first collection and the current one. My first collection wasn’t great, to say the least. But I was still learning and finding my personal style while figuring out what I wanted to achieve with my brand. Back then, I copied other brands and tested new designs. Eventually the brand developed into what it is today. But probably one of the main differences between the first collection and the current one is that I’m taking a lot more fashion risks now. I use my own style and take it to the extreme, being bolder, more sophisticated and more myself.
Where do you see your brand in the LA fashion scene?
Los Angeles fashion has always stood out from other cities. It often takes the form of glamor and splendor with a touch of eccentricity. I feel like this is often what I produce in my studio and bring to the runway. I chose to start my brand in LA because it’s where everything happens: the stars, the red carpets and the flashy events. I have proven that I am capable of making beautiful luxury clothing that can be worn on the red carpet among the stars but also shine on the runway.
What are the three greatest moments in your career as a fashion designer so far?
The first moment was definitely my first show at LA Fashion Week. It was a crash course in the basics of the industry and how to stage a runway show that is a major advertisement for one’s brand. It was important for me to show my style and thematic integration. This experience paved the way for my NYFW show, which brought me several big clients and marked another milestone in my career as a designer.
The second moment was my first big client and the subsequent moment of recognition I received. I worked with Lauren Morano and dressed her in a blue and purple sequin dress that, unbeknownst to me, she wore to a 2018 HBO Emmy afterparty. Not only was it my first big commission, but also my first big moment of recognition as she received a spot on Cosmopolitan’s best-dressed list. Aside from the personal fulfillment, it was affirming to see my designs resonate with others. For me, design is about finding a balance between business success and the joy and artistry.
Number three would be my first international fashion show at Arab Fashion Week in Dubai. Not only was it an opportunity to showcase my designs on a global platform, but I also won the Golden Forever Rose Award. I beat out other big designers like Valentino at the awards, which made me feel like I had earned my place at the table.
Where would you like to see JMS in the next five years?
I hope to continue doing what I do and support the continued development of my brand, style and technical skills. I want to become a household name and expand internationally. I would like to exhibit at the leading international fashion weeks such as Paris, Milan and London.
However, my biggest goal for the next five years is for my brand to become a household name. If my work were internationally recognized in this way, it would definitely be a success.
This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.uk. Translated and edited by Simone Preuss.