This weekend, Sneakerness, an international sneaker trade fair for end consumers, is stopping in Amsterdam. The format, which also takes place in other European cities such as Cologne, London and Paris, brings together a community that is interested in art, sports, music and fashion in addition to the popular casual shoe. There are always big brands involved. In Amsterdam, these include the German sports goods companies Adidas and Puma, the US retailer Foot Locker and the local streetwear veteran Patta.
At the start of the streetwear spectacle, FashionUnited spoke to Sneakerness Co-CEO Matthijs van der Meulen about the current developments and trends in the sneaker world. He also explains the opportunities for small brands as Nike focuses on a direct-to-consumer model.
What developments are you currently seeing in the sneaker sector?
For many, many years, there has been a big focus on Nike and the Jordan One in particular. That high has dropped rapidly, which was quite surprising. Nike has the market [mit dem Modell] saturated and then there was a point where people just got bored. So they looked to other brands and models like the Jordan Four. We’re also seeing people turning away from the really big brands like Adidas and Nike. So smaller brands are on the rise again.
Which brands did this give them a chance?
I see brands like Karhu. Also, New Balance has done very, very well over the last two, three years and it seems like nobody can stop them right now.
Consumers are now paying more attention to brands and silhouettes to find the best possible style and shoe. People no longer buy just one brand. They no longer need everything Nike or buy everything Adidas related. You are looking for the brand that has the most beautiful basketball shoe or for the best tracking model.
So it’s not just Team Adidas or Nike anymore?
Yes, exactly. Adidas, for example, is very strong in the basic models – Samba and Gazelle are doing really well.
What trends are emerging away from these giants?
Outdoor brands get a lot of attention. It’s still niche, but brands like Salomon have suddenly become fashionable. You couldn’t have told me that five years ago.
Adidas is still suffering from the end of the Kanye West partnership. Who would be a good alternative for the sports goods retailer?
In the past they have a lot with Pharrell [Anm. d. Red.: Musiker und Designer Pharrell Williams] worked together, but as far as this cooperation goes, it’s difficult. These are big footsteps to fill. Who can fill the void Kanye left? I don’t have a clear answer to that.
Perhaps Williams’ new role as creative director of menswear at Louis Vuitton could make the difference…
In any case. He’s a very professional guy – he always has been. He knows the niches of streetwear really well. So if there is one person, it could be him.
What other difficulties do you currently see in the world of sneakers?
As a company, Nike puts all its energy into a business-to-consumer model and tries to sell its products through its own website. They cut out the middleman, meaning the big retail stores, but also the small, specialized sneaker stores. This can also backfire or is already starting to backfire. Because you don’t see good Nike products in stores anymore. They used to be found everywhere. Even in the special sneaker stores – where many of the trends originated – there are no longer any good Nike models.
Which brands have taken the place?
New Balance, Diadora and all the smaller brands. Nike is really good at creating hype and a lot of people got into it and tried to get all the limited edition sneakers. But in nine out of ten cases, of course, you get nothing. And if you don’t get a chance at Nike for the 20th time, you’re fed up and switch to another brand.
Why are these small independent shops such a hotbed of sneaker trends?
They have an open ear for the street – for what’s hot and what’s happening. That eludes a brand like Nike.
Who is currently in the lead when it comes to collaborations?
What New Balance is doing is really cool. They team up with young, fresh designers, musicians and artists, such as the US rapper Action Bronson.
Of course, Nike is always on the right track with its partnerships.
Finally, which release are you particularly looking forward to?
I’m really into New Balance now and unfortunately they’ve discontinued my favorite silhouette – the 997. This year they’re bringing back the 998, which is my second favorite. I’m really happy about that. Hopefully next year they’ll bring back the 997 too.