“It’s made to measure, almost haute couture”

A pompous dress with a skirt that resembles a dial, transparent bodysuits with neon-colored accents and a suit studded with rhinestones – these extravagant costumes can be seen in the Arise Grand Show at the Friedrichstadt-Palast in Berlin. In addition to the imposing performances of the artists, they make the show shine.

But how do fashion professionals come to designing costumes for plays and musicals? In our “Work in Fashion” series, we took a look behind the scenes of the show and spoke to costume designer Stefano Canulli. The Italian is designing the costumes for the performers on stage for the third Grand Show in a row. In an interview with FashionUnited, he explained what defines his job and which skills are particularly important for it.

Mr. Canulli, you worked in classic fashion houses for a long time. You are now a costume designer at the Friedrichstadt-Palast. Tell us about your career.

I started my career in costume design. At that time I was working as an assistant to major costume designers such as Piero Tosi, Mauro Pagano and Mario Ambrosino in Rome. I then illustrated fashion and then worked in fashion houses, including Capucci, Valentino, Zola and Lancetti.

Then I went back to the costume and worked for the Cirque du Soleil, Holidays on Ice, Follies Paris and now for the Friedrichstadt-Palast.

What appeal does costume design have for you that you have returned to it?

The diversity of bodies in motion. It’s a different way of showing a created look. Basically it is “made to measure” for each individual, almost haute couture, not like fashion, which is too stereotyped for proportions and the way of life. Likewise, the fashion industry is mostly just marketing – very boring!

Can you describe your job in other words?

Yes, as an illustrator, painter and storyboarder. But also as an art director, designer for accessories and costume designer.

From Italian fashion houses to the Berlin Friedrichstadt-Palast. How did that happen?

Through my longstanding collaboration with Thierry Mugler, with whom I designed the costumes for The Wyld Grand Show. This was followed by Vivid and now the Arise Grand Show.

Are there skills that costume designers have to be particularly good at inside?

Observe, experiment and be imaginative. Read between the lines of body language.

The costumes for the Arise Grand Show are very extravagant and glamorous. What is the inspiration behind it?

For me it’s about the feeling that the lyrics can evoke. It’s about being overwhelmed by visions.

When do you start with the designs? Have you already decided on the program, the choreography and the music?

Usually we start after the director’s briefing, which sometimes includes specific instructions for the choreography or special acts like acrobatics. On the other hand, the costume design can also inspire the performances and the staging, so we try to cross our feelings and moods in order to improve the visionary result.

And what is the process of creating costumes for such a big show?

Usually it all starts with a brainstorming session with the directors. Then it comes to the design, the proposal and the validation. This is followed by the selection of materials and the manufacturing process. Then comes the fitting and the design of the make-up before the costumes go on stage.

Do certain things need to be considered in the design, such as functionality? Do you develop the costumes for this together with the performers?

First and foremost, it’s about getting the message across, then it’s about functionality for the performers and third is the daily maintenance of the costume for work on stage. From experience we can foresee some problems, but it certainly has to be discussed with the artists so that they feel comfortable when they act on stage.

What exactly do you like about your job and what do you like less?

I love to depict something, to draw and to make the character look like a living figure. I don’t like long meetings and unnecessary minutes.

What advice can you give to someone interested in pursuing the same career path?

You need a lot of knowledge, experience and humility. Avoid pride and listen to others who respect the people – the team, the artists, the audience.

This interview was carried out in writing.