THE iris perfumes they know no seasonality. Their powdery touch makes them soft, powdery, delicate and original at any time of the year. Some master perfumers orchestrate them in such a way as to highlight the most feminine, sensual and purplish part of this precious raw material, perhaps combining it with green, spicy or flowery notes; others, on the other hand, enhance its refinement and elegance by focusing on the earthy accents that usually emerge together with the woods. It is therefore not surprising that the iris has been renamed “the blue gold of perfumery”.
Perfumes with iris, the meaning, the history
Despite its presence in numerous fragrances, iris is a typically spring/summer flower. In fact, it flowers in May on the Tuscan hills, in the shade of the olive trees. Although by now it is also grown sustainably in Southern France where numerous essence houses are located.
For a long time popular beliefs have associated the iris with divinities. Not by chance this flower steals its name from the Greek goddess of the rainbowdaughter of Thaumas and Electra, as well as sister of the three fierce harpies.
The iris grows in Tuscany but is also cultivated in southern France (photo: Getty)
However, its history is strongly linked to that of Florence. Also known as lily or “giaggiolo”, the iris has been the symbol of the Tuscan capital since, in 1266, the Guelphs celebrated their victory over the Ghibellines.
Perfumes with iris, one of the most precious raw materials
The processing of iris in perfumery explains why it is considered such a precious raw material. For the production of his notes, in fact, it takes at least six years: three for cultivation and three for maturation. The leaves or petals of the flower are not used, but a butter obtained from its rhizomes, i.e. those stems that branch off from the roots and which have a decidedly earthy scent.
In order for the rhizomes to be ready to be distilled, it is necessary to wait at least two or three years after planting and then another three or four years for drying. After this time they are macerated and steam distilled. The result of all this processing is an oily concrete, with a very strong scent: to obtain two kilos, you need a ton of rhizome powder.
Iris fragrances: novelties and iconic jus to try
The earthy nuances of this flower have conquered many fashion houses. As an example, Lancome that with La Vie Est Belle Iris Absolu, investigates the most unusual nuances, enhancing them with blackcurrant, fig and patchouli. Needless to underline how the result is original but at the same time decidedly feminine.
With Iris TorrefiéInstead, Guerlain enhances the powdery side of the famous flower and is thus inspired by a lipstick stain left on the edge of a cup of coffee. To play it, Delphine Jelk he worked with iris pallida butter, embellishing its pudrée, woody and violet tones with notes of coffee, amber and vanilla.
Then, there is Prada which, 16 years after its launch, is still aiming for Infusion of Iris: an iconic fragrance that celebrates high craftsmanship with the highest quality raw materials such as Italian mandarin, Tunisian neroli and galbanum, plus an intense note of iris, enhanced by cedar wood, benzoin and incense.
Iris niche perfumes
But iris is a raw material also widely used in the field of artistic perfumery. L’Pharmaceutical Perfume Workshop of Santa Maria Novellafor example, used it to orchestrate his premiere eau de parfum: The iris. «We wanted to start from the roots, ours and those of the pharmacopoeia: the flower symbol of Florence is, not surprisingly, an extremely complex raw material», he explains Gianluca Perristoday at the helm of the Maison which has over 800 years of activity.
The Iris of Officina Profumo Farmaceutica of Santa Maria Novella it is a bouquet that knows how to be delicate and intensely bright at the same time. Its top notes of galbanum, timur pepper and neroli meet geranium, magnolia champaca and sambac jasmine in the heart. At the base there are, however, musk and ambergris, but above all the concrete of Florentine iris.
Among the niche perfumes with iris, also worth trying Irises 39 Of Le Labo which brings out the most sensual character of this note with patchouli and musk. And then Gloam Of Aēsop which exploits the powdery touch of the lily to soften its spicy jus based on pink pepper, cardamom, saffron and cloves.
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