On Thursday and Friday, September 29th and 30th, 2022, the 36th International Cotton Conference took place in Bremen. More than 400 industry insiders from countries from Argentina to Vietnam took part and over the two days discussed the situation in the industry, innovations, transparency and sustainability online or on site in Bremen under the motto “Cotton Decoded”.
Sustainability from a technical point of view
In the lecture “Sustainability from a technical point of view” three researchers presented the results of their various projects. For example, Mary Ankeny, VP Product Development & Implementation at Cotton Incorporated, and her team studied the biodegradation of dyed and treated cotton in natural environments such as various bodies of water, soil and landfill.
“Microfiber pollution on land and in the water is a significant problem with many unintended consequences. Textile fiber is one of the factors contributing to this problem, but there are other equally significant but lesser-known sources,” Ankeny shared, noting that consumers are already consuming the equivalent of a credit card in plastic per week.
Their studies found that all cotton fabrics degraded in the simulated landfill environment, but cotton with DMDHEU degraded much more slowly and polyester did not degrade. The processing of the substances also plays a role in bodies of water.
Claudia Heller, development engineer at BSH Hausgeräte GmbH, and her team examined the behavior of items of clothing made from cotton or synthetic fiber blends in the washing process. She summarized the results for further MP textile tests: “The tested garments behave differently due to the material composition and fabric structure. In addition, cotton blended fabrics must be taken into account when examining household processes, and only a holistic view that includes all parameters of the laundry care process leads to relevant statements,” says Heller.
Andreas Schneider, Managing Director of Global Textile Scheme GmbH, presented the GTS standard and digital product pass Cirpass, which aims to bring more transparency to the value chain and promote its circular economy potential. Schneider emphasized that it is neither a platform nor a marketplace, but a language intended to facilitate communication between different interfaces.
Cotton and sustainability from a brand perspective
A panel discussion looked at cotton from a brand perspective and illustrated how important the material is for brands and retailers. Juliane Nowakoswki, Head of Sustainability at Tom Tailor, confirmed that cotton is the most popular material across all lines and is found in 60 to 70 percent of all products. Since the company first set sustainability targets for the materials it uses in 2020, the proportion of sustainably sourced cotton has already increased to 99 percent, with Tom Tailor using BCI cotton, as well as recycled and organic cotton. She emphasized that this is a step towards greater sustainability.
Cotton also plays a major role at C&A and is the most important material, which is particularly appreciated by customers due to properties such as softness, breathability, performance and the naturalness of the fiber. “Organic cotton is important for children’s and baby clothing,” said William Brenninkmeyer, product manager sourcing at C&A. He added that the high water consumption and use of pesticides requires a responsible approach to cotton sourcing.
When asked if consumers are willing to spend more on sustainable products, Angela Langer, director of product development at Falke, noted that companies need to find solutions together with their suppliers, but also maintain quality consistently. According to your experience, customers are increasingly asking for sustainable products.
Referring to the requirements that cotton must meet in order to be traceable, Brenninkmeyer warned that just knowing the producing countries is not enough; you also need to know the farms and work with partners to get farm-level data. Tom Tailor is now checking the transparency of its Tier 1 and Tier 2 operations and is currently unable to say which farms the cotton used comes from. However, full traceability is a goal. At Falke, suppliers and farms are selected more on the basis of requirements, such as lower water consumption.
Transparency in the supply chain
A lecture on Friday was about transparency, with three companies presenting themselves in this regard: the Cotton Science Innovation Center in Uzbekistan, Bayer Crop Science in the USA and the ITA Academy in Aachen. Project Manager Gesine Köppke presented the benefits of Distributed Ledger Technologies (DLTs) for the textile value chain, while Miriam Paris presented different types of cotton grown in the USA as part of the “Field to Closet” initiative. Rinat Gulyaev explained the development of an electronic traceability system for cotton products.
“The project aims to develop an integrated digital system for the identification, labeling and traceability of cotton products for all actors along the supply chain of cotton products from field to textile mill, with the possibility to adopt modern international standards and best practices that aim to ensure the interoperability of developed and digital platforms in the context of the ongoing digital transformation,” says Gulyaev.
Paris presented a recent project to develop medical clothing made from 100 percent cotton grown in the state of Georgia. It thus enables the re-entry of cotton as a material in a market that has lately been dominated by synthetic products. “Another unique aspect of this project is that the medical garments were made from fabrics treated with Protx2 AV, an antimicrobial technology that inhibits the growth of bacteria,” said Paris.
“The textile and apparel industry has been confronted with an enormous paradigm shift in supply chain management for several years: shorter cycle times, fast fashion and the increasing pressure towards sustainability and transparency. Added to this is the decision of the Supply Chain Act. Companies must comply with the requirements of the laws and European regulatory initiatives. The textile and clothing industry must now show transparency in the supply chains and build trust with suppliers and retail companies,” summarized Köppke.