In Vienna on the hunt for Christmas markets

Discover Vienna on foot

48 hours may not be enough to see all the Christmas markets in Vienna, but with a good starting point, a weekend is enough to make a big feast. between fragrant biscuits and spiced mulled wine, looking for handmade Christmas ornaments and suggestive lights to take home.

A good starting point for exploring the central districts of Vienna is there‘Hotel Beethoven, a stone’s throw (literally) from Naschmarktfrom the Secession and from the church of San Carlo. There owner Barbara Ludwig (name omen) is a bubbly Viennese who speaks excellent Italian; as soon as you enter its golden bar, very popular with the Viennese, you are immersed in a festive atmosphere. Each floor of the hotel has a different character and each room is uniquepersonally furnished by the owner with design pieces and family heirlooms.
The Beethoven is located opposite the Theater an der Wienthe theater built by Mozart’s librettist in which Ludwig Van first played his 5th symphony, and is strategically positioned to explore all of downtown on foot.

The central markets and imperial Vienna

Vienna is a fascinating city where one likes to walk aimlessly, but if we want to move methodically, after having unpacked a first culinary stop can be made at the NaschmarktVienna’s largest food market which, in addition to offering local and Levantine specialities, offers a large choice of small bistros in which to eat, such as the Erzherzogtum serving Viennese dishes and excellent local wine in a relaxed and authentic atmosphere.

Once refreshed, you can leave for the 1st district. Passed the Vienna Secession (where to see the suggestive Gustav Klimt’s mural on the fate of humanity listening to Beethoven with headphones), one leaves the Opera Theater on the right and theAlbertina Museum. You then enter the shopping street towards the St Stephen’s Cathedral. The market surrounding the church is lively and busy but looking good amidst the stalls, dal florist Blumenhaus zum Domyou can find Christmas wreaths, bunches of mistletoe and Advent centerpiecetypical of the Austrian Christmas tradition.

Left Santo Stefano behind, turning left compared to the shopping street, it crosses Petersplatz with its column dedicated to the victims of the Plague, you pass the district of luxury shops and the local historian Zum Schwarzen Kameelwhich has remained incredibly unchanged since 1618. We then arrive atAntikmarkt AM HOFa market with a large range of typical food products, to then reach a one of the most loved by the Viennese, L’Altwiener Christkindlmarkt (ancient Viennese Christmas market) where the break for a mulled wine and a shortbread biscuit is mandatory, before a tour of the colorful festive stalls. Buying at least one cookie rolling pin is mandatory if you want to marry the local tradition, which requires December to be dedicated to prepare and give away homemade sweets, always different.

Regained energy, you can cross the suggestive Ferstel Passagean elegant gallery full of small cafés and bars for an aperitif, to then meet at Sisi Museum and, having passed the imperial residences, continue towards the square Maria Theresien.

Here the Christmas market is impressive and there really is something for all tastes. From candles, to sweet and savory specialties, up to beautiful decorations carved in wood and crowns of scented dried fruit to hang on the front door. It is worth taking it easy and enjoying a nice moment in the square surrounded by the twin buildings commissioned by Maria Theresa of Austria to house museums and cultural institutions.

The Karlsplatz market and historic Vienna

Again starting at the Hotel Beethoven, crossing the Naschmarkt perpendicularly, one enters the 4th district, known for its small vintage shops and relics of the great popular architecture of the last century. A stop must be made at Vollpension, a pastry café run by retired ladies. Here it’s like going to visit grandma on a Saturday morning: forget the rush and mobile phones, the “price” to pay to taste the delicious handmade sweets is good manners: no cell phones at the table, minimum half hour stay and obligation to socialize with table mates. An ideal place for those who travel alone and want to make friends while enjoying rare specialties such as Buchtelndelicious balls of yeast dough filled with homemade apricot jam. The only warning, the place is loved by the Viennese and always full, better get organized before going.

Once our stomachs are satisfied, if we want to take home some local recipes, we can drop by Babette, the cookbook and spice shop just across the street. Continuing to hunt for markets, we continue towards Karlsplatz, whose market it is 100% organic and eco-sustainable. If you want to make a small cultural break, from terrace of the church of San Carlo you can enjoy a beautiful view over the whole city and the park below. Opposite here, the museum dedicated to the city of Vienna will be reopened in 2023, a very interesting stopover rich in ancient and recent history.

Going back towards Santo Stefano you come across the famous Gerstner cafe and the Musikverein where every year the highly anticipated is held New Year’s concert. Immediately after the cathedral, we turn right towards the Vienna’s oldest streets in the footsteps of Mozart, who changed his house 18 times in 9 years in this city (Beethoven who lived there for 30 years changed 60 houses). Crossing very busy neighborhood squares, such as Franziskanerplatz with his Kleine Cafeyou come across small organic restaurants, Tyrolean handicrafts and some irresistible Christmas decoration shops such as the Die Vermischte Warenhandlung. Located in an ancient courtyard, it offers Christmas decorations and small gifts for all tastes: from hand-woven Austrian tea towels to carded wool Christmas ballsup to the more kitsch ones in the shape of Italian provolone.

Spittelberg market and museum district

Finally, starting in a third direction, one can head towards the residential district of Spittelbergwhich houses a refined Christmas market rich in high-end craftsmanship, between contemporary art galleries and antique dealers. Indicated by bright orange stars, the streets of the market run parallel, offering a clever mix of shopping and refreshment. In the middle some design shops like Decoowhich in this period of the year offers a very wide range of Christmas decorations in white ceramic and small candles elegant for party tables.

Leaving the neighborhood you can then head towards the Museums Quarterthe museum square, animated in the evening by kiosks for aperitifs, plays of light, artistic installations and also a curling field open to all. A nice place to go an evening with friends, lay down on colorful “Enzo”, the modules created to give life to seats and counters, which change color every year based on the choices of citizens. And leaving the museum square behind, let’s remember hold up the head because all the galleries around are painted by young contemporary artists in a unique and lively way.

Where to eat in Vienna

Erzherzogtum
Naschmarkt Stand 130, 1060 Wien, Austria
Viennese specialties in a relaxed, festive atmosphere. Erzherzogtum.at

Ludwig van
Laimgrubengasse 22, 1060 Wien, Austria
Fine Viennese cuisine in a historic establishment with an excellent choice of wines. Ludwigvan.wien

Labstelle
Lugeck 6, 1010 Vienna, Austria
Modern cuisine in a trendy but authentic setting. Labstelle.at

The Demel
Kohlmarkt 14, 1010 Vienna, Austria
An alternative to the Sacher Hotel, this historic patisserie is a must for lovers of Viennese sweets. Demel. com

What to buy

Leitner Leinen
Wollzeile 1/3, 1010 Wien, Austria
Austrian home textiles and towels. Leitnerleinen. com

Original Salzburger Trachtenoutlet Wien
Weihburggasse 8, 1010 Wien, Austria
Tyrolean clothing for women and men. Boiled wool jackets and elegant skirts. Originalsalzburger.at

Sacher cakes
Philharmoniker Str. 4, 1010 Wien, Austria
If you have the patience to queue here you can buy the most famous chocolate cake in the world. Sacher. com

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