goritia it’s a trilingual city. Walking through the streets of the centre, it happens that you hear Friulian and Slovenian as well as Italian. This is land of good wines, genuine cuisine and border. We are in the extreme northeastern corner of Italy. In 2004, it fell here the penultimate wall of Europe and since 2007 the now deserted customs buildings have been silent witnesses of a past that, fortunately, is now out of date. Italy and Slovenia are both EU members and in 2025 Gorizia and the Slovenian Nova Gorica will be together the European Capital of Culture.
The Baroque church of Sant’Ignazio. Ph. Luigi Vitale, Promoturismo FVG
The Nice of Austria
With less than 34,000 inhabitants, Gorizia it has a historic center that is a wedding favor, full of palaces named after noble families that tell us about a prosperous past. Alone from November 1918 this is Italian territory. Architecture tells us that Gorizia gravitated within the cultural sphere of Vienna, together with its Slovenian neighbors, also former imperial subjects. The link with the Habsburgs dates back to the 1500s and here it is still very much felt.
In a small village a few kilometers from here, people still celebrate there Kaiserfestthe birthday of Franz Joseph of Austria, with a touch of nostalgia. With the Austrians the inhabitants of Gorizia had even enjoyed a tourist launch: the city had become the Nice of Austriaand here the nobles and rich people from beyond the Alps came to enjoy the southern sun.
The museums of Borgo Castello
The castle seen from piazza Unità d’Italia. Ph. Luigi Vitale, Promoturismo FVG
The city of Gorizia it is dominated by the 12th century castle, from which you can enjoy a splendid panorama, even on the hills of Nova Gorica. The small one chapel of Santo Spirito in Borgo Castello it is a Romanesque jewel. In the nearby museum site, lovers of war tourism cannot miss the Museum of the Great Warwhile al Museum of Fashion and Applied Arts it is possible to enjoy a reconstruction of thecommercial artery of via Rastellowith all its fashionable shops until the beginning of the twentieth century, which reveal the well-being of the city of Gorizia at the time.
The heart of the city in via Rastello
Via Rastello was the shopping street under the Habsburgs. Ph. Maria Tatsos
The commercial artery of via Rastello it still exists and must be discovered on foot. But she changed her face. Many houses are perfectly restored, but few historic shops they survive. Other spaces are occupied by associations, some trinkets and antiques businesses, to keep alive the ancient heart of Gorizia. Coming out into the majestic Victory squaredeserves a stop the Baroque church of Sant’Ignaziowith its onion domes.
Italy Fifties at Palazzo Attems Petzenstein
The Lancia Aurelia B20 (1957) and the Nove Gonne evening dress (1956) by Roberto Capucci are on display at the exhibition hosted by Palazzo Attems Petzenstein. Ph. Maria Tatsos
Continuing on foot on the left along via Carducci, you come to Attems Petzenstein Palacean important museum venue, which is hosting the exhibition until 27 August “Italia Fifties fashion and design. Birth of a style”, curated by Carla Cerutti, Enrico Minio Capucci and Raffaella Sgubin. An opportunity to retrace a key decade for creativitywhich has made our country a world reference point.
It starts from the birth of Italian fashion in 1951, thanks to Giovan Battista Giorgini who had the ingenious idea of bringing together the most important stylists of the time and American buyers in Florence, creating an ideal common thread between Florentine Renaissance artistic craftsmanship and the collections presented. In the section dedicated to design, iconic objects such as the dishes from the Tema series by Piero Fornasettithe Mirella sewing machine by Necchi or the Olivetti Letter 22.
Rediscovered local cuisine
Appetizer horseradish, radicchio and apples and sister Antonija’s recipe book. Ph.Maria Tatsos
For a gourmet break, al restaurant Rosenbar, chef Michela Fabbro, who favors local flavours, delighted in re-proposing some dishes taken from the Sister Antonija’s Central European recipe book (1905-1987), Ursuline nun, forced in 1947 to leave her convent in Slovenia to move to Gorizia. Like this delicate one appetizer of horseradish, radicchio and apples.
Passage to Transalpina
Piazza Transalpina in Gorizia, with the plaque commemorating where the border used to pass. Ph. Luigi Vitale, Promoturismo FVG
It cannot be left Gorizia without having visited the Transalpine stationsymbol of the trauma suffered by the Friulian city, broken for decades since border between the Western world and the Communist world. The border passed in front of the historic station built by the Habsburgs. A plaque on the ground commemorates the border that separated relatives, friends and loved ones since 1947. Today from the center of Gorizia you can see the Mount Sabotin – partly Slovenian, partly Italian – the huge inscription “Tito”, now out of time. Here the twentieth century was not an easy century.
Gradisca, the most beautiful village in Italy
The imposing facade of Palazzo Torriani, now the Town Hall, in Gradisca d’Isonzo. Ph.Maria Tatsos
About ten kilometers from Gorizia, Gradisca d’Isonzo it is a delightful fortified village in the 15th century, with well-preserved and visible walls. From Unity of Italy square, enter the pedestrian area and look around. His palaces tell us that important families lived in this small town, which today has about 6,300 souls. There were strong ties with Venice, which tried to recover Gradisca after the Austrian conquest in the 16th century, without success. Remarkable Torriani Palace, which today houses the Town Hall and Library.
Sottsass and Spazzapan, master and disciple
“Still life with geometric flowers” (1950) by Luigi Spazzapan. Ph. Maria Tatsos
There Luigi Spazzapan Regional Gallery of Contemporary Art it houses a collection of the painter (1889-1958) born in Gradisca, one of the first representatives of abstract art in Italy. Until next April 30, the exhibition “Sottsass/Pan Spazzapan” investigates the relationship between the master from Friuli, who had moved to Turin, and the young Ettore Sottsass, who knows the artist through his architect father. He will be fascinated by it and will appreciate it for its being aristocrat and proletarianbut also storyteller.
Wine and philanthropy
A detail of the nineteenth-century castle of Villa Russiz. Ph. Maria Tatsos
Still a short distance from Gorizia, a Capriva del Friuli Villa Russiz is a farm that produces fine wines and boasts a compelling story. The estate on the Gorizia Collio was the wedding present of Baron Julius Hector Ritter de Zahony to the daughter Elvinewho married the French count Theodor de la Tour. He Catholic, she Protestant, they found themselves united by the common desire to render service to this territory. Theodor did this through his knowledge of viticulture, while Elvine dedicated himself to a great philanthropic project, which included orphanages and retirement homes. After Elvine’s death in 1916, the work of supporting some seventy children continued thanks to Adele Cerruti, daughter of an Italian ambassador, who used her personal connections to attract donations. Today a Foundation manages the farm, the proceeds of which are used to the family home that houses children and adolescents in difficulty. It is possible to book a visit to the cellar with tasting. With a minimum of 20 people, even food and wine pairing.
Villa Manin which hosted Napoleon
Before leaving, it is worth stopping at Passariannear Codroipo, the amazing Villa Maninhome oflast doge of Venice, Louis. It seems that the Manins were originally from Tuscany and that they venetized the surname Manini once they arrived in the Serenissima. The first construction dates back to the second half of the 17th century, but it underwent a major restyling in the 18th century. The villa, which also housed Napoleon Bonaparte in 1797, today it is also the seat of the Roberto Capucci Foundation.
Triumph of daffodils in the park
The park, revisited several times, was also devastated during the last world wars. Today in spring it shows up with a carpet of daffodilsand still worth the visit for i magnificent monumental trees which includes: cedars, hackberries, lindens, pines, pawlonias, magnolias, plane trees and cypresses. And a splendid one avenue of rates.
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