THEImagine a walk in a temporary e unpublished museum, where everything is for sale. “Among art treasures that (if you can afford it) could furnish your home” reads the press release of the oldest exhibition market in the world: there Biaf, 32nd International Biennial of Antiques in Florence (24 September-2 October, from 10.30 to 20, ticket 15 euros). A unique opportunity to admire works that will enrich foundations and private collections. The location is also exceptional, usually visited by appointment only: lo sumptuous Palazzo Corsini, overlooking the Arno, in whose frescoed rooms and halls exhibit about 80 gallerieswith a scenographic staging by Matteo Corvino.
In Florence, hunting for the masterpiece
Result: on the two floors of the seventeenth-century Palazzo Corsini, jumping from one century to the next, you can admire vases, silverware, period furniture and important paintings as the Saint Mary Magdalene in meditation (1640) by Artemisia Gentileschi (Butterfly), The sleeper (1924) by Felice Casorati (Gian Enzo Sperone Gallery) part of a vast decoration created for the Teatrino in the home of Riccardo Gualino, one of the major Italian industrialists of the early twentieth century.
Ecce Puer (1906) by Medardo Rosso (Galleria Russo) from the Margherita Sarfatti Collection, il Portrait of Russian lady (1867) painted by a Giovanni Boldini just 25 years old (Society of fine arts) e Communiqué (1936) by Wassily Kandinsky (Tornabuoni Arte), made during the artist’s stay in Neuilly-sur-Seinenot far from Paris, when the painter returned to painting watercolors.
Biennale d’Antiquariato, with a Picasso under his arm
What will the buyers taste like? Among the insiders there is no mention of fashions, but only of “excellence”. «Today marble and semi-precious stones are highly sought after, which dialogue with contemporary art. But they also like minute mosaics and stone paintings “says Alessandra Di Castro, who belongs to a dynasty of Roman antiquaries active in the capital since 1878.which brings to the Biennale d ‘Antiquariato an oil on panel with spectacular colors, The triumph of the Virtues (1572) by Giovanni Stradano and the Portrait of Giovan Pietro Bellori (1672-1673) by Carlo Maratti. Stand after stand, in an exciting treasure hunt crossing different eras and styles, works by Picasso, De Pisis, De Chirico, Bellotto, Telemaco Signorini, Morandi, Burri, and so on, are also on sale, in a kind of temporary museum. .
A trek in art, from exhibition to exhibition
At the same time as Biaf, the cradle of the Renaissance is animated by a galaxy of exhibitions. The spaces of Palazzo Strozzi are transformed into a play of light and shadow: In your time (open until January 22) is the great exhibition that sees the involvement of all the Renaissance environments of the building thanks to the installations by Olafur Eliasson. «These works create a choreography in which each is an active part, a show of spatial flows and transformations, of exploratory movements and moments of contemplation» writes the Icelandic-Danish artist for the catalog (Marsilio Arte) of the exhibition. Starting point is Under the weather (2022), work for the courtyard of Palazzo Strozzi, consisting of a large elliptical structure of 11 meters suspended at a height of 8 meters. Not to be missed PLEXUS. Digital Emotions (Tornabuoni Arte, via Benvenuto Cellini 3, until November 18) with the videos of the Venetian artist, who also signs the installation that projects water, fire, gold and lightning on the facade of Palazzo Bartolini Salimbeni (via Tornabuoni, piazza Santa Trinità 1).
In this house (museum) there is a treasure
Do you want to continue the art tour? Focus on the usually uncrowded galleries and museums: the Bellini Gallery (Lungarno Soderini 5 galleriabellini.com), in a palace on the Arno, preserves the memory of the family and is one of the most prestigious private art collections in Europe. There Roberto Casamonti collection, from the 1960s to the beginning of the 11th century, it can be admired in Palazzo Bartolini Salimbeni (Piazza Santa Trinità 1). Exceptionally open to the public Karl Stengel collection at Palazzo Rosselli del Turco (until 2 October, via dei Serragli 17) with the drawings of the Hungarian artist. There are many exhibitions to visit, in addition to Tony Cragg. Transfer (until January 15), al Twentieth century museum (piazza Santa Maria Novella 10).
The charm of Florence, beyond the river
Precious and refined, the‘Opificio delle Pietre Dure (via degli Alfani 78, opificiodellepietredure.it) exhibits artifacts with wonderful multicolor inlays; the fun and stylish Gucci Garden (Piazza Signoria 10) is instead the favorite destination for girls, enchanted by the “garden of archetypes”: an immersive space that explores the Gucci campaigns of the last six years. In the busy program of exhibitions and house-museums, the real masterpiece to admire, wandering around without haste, is the Florence of the silent streets of Oltrarno, between Borgo San Frediano and Borgo San Jacopostopping at the church of Santa Maria del Carminefrom the unfinished facade, to the Basilica of the Holy Spirit signed by Brunelleschi, looking at the shop windows of the antique dealers in via Maggio and those of the artisan shops. Then you go through the door of Palazzo Pittiand immersion in great art can begin again.
Where to sleep in Florence
25hours hotel
piazza San Paolino, 1.
Is it better to sleep in a room inspired by Dante’s Paradise or in another that mentions, with a hint of irony, a circle of Hell? The hotel, which takes up an entire block, is designed by Paola Navone. Double from 169 euros. 25hours-hotels.com/it
Pierre Hotel
via de ‘Lamberti, 5.
In a Gothic palace, refined four stars in the city center. Double from 220 euros. hotel-pierre-florence.com/it
Where to eat
Trattoria Marione
via della Spada, 27 r.
A real trattoria, in the heart of the city, with the classics of Tuscan cuisine on the menu: ribollita, crostini, mega Florentine steak. casatrattoria.com/trattoria-marione
What to buy
Desii Vintage
via de ‘Conti 17.
A space that gives a second life to carefully selected bags and accessories, from all the most important maisons.
Tharros Bijoux
Village. SS Apostoli, 32R
From the paintings of the museums, an almost infinite choice of faithful reproductions of Renaissance jewels, in semi-precious or semi-precious stones. Bijoux also on sale at the Uffizi Gallery bookshops. tharros.com
Dimitri Villoresi Bags
via d’Ardiglione 22.
In a small street in Oltrarno, hand-made bags, to choose from among the models in the collection or to order by bringing your own model or design. dimitrivilloresi.com
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