ben anything but a trend, we understood it, even at Identità Milano 2023. But the trend is truly unstoppable vegan trend, healthy but creative and, in truth, less and less punitive? Or gluttony is gluttony, and despite radical changes in taste and sensitivitythe rich and authentic traditional food has a future as glorious as the past? If rethought (even here, at home) in a contemporary keyhe certainly has it, judging by the three days dshe kermesse just concluded at MiCo in a coming and going of celebrity chefs and sincere gourmets. “Ladies and gentlemen, the revolution is served” was the theme of the event, enlivened by reflections, masterclasses, excellent tastings. Happily anti diet. Here is our “ideal” menu.
Chef Giuseppe Iannotti on the stage of “Identità di pasta”, in Milan.
First, the pasta
Short or long, dried or fresh, in a conventional format or with a brand new die, the result of a tech research that not even NASA can do. Nothing more Italian and more versatile than pasta. It goes with everything, it brings omnivores and vegans together, it is very popular in the menus of restaurants all over the world and of every denomination.
His “identity” has been recognized in eight author’s interpretations, thanks to a historic Trentino “mountain” brand. Monograno monovarietal pastas Felicetti (felicitti.it) were the raw material for the lesson Giuseppe Iannotti of Kresios (Telese, Benevento, two Michelin stars): “Dried pasta: revolution of identity and myth of origins”. They have become the “Cold spaghetti, trout fat and rhubarb” by Michael Lazzarini of Contrada Bricconi (Oltressenda Alta, Bergamo, a green star), have been transformed into an (almost) dessert by the hands of the young Karime Lopez, Mexican, and Takahiko Kondo , Japanese, from the Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura (Florence, one star). The title of their sweet/salty intervention: “The cannoli that wants to become a cannellone”, is already a bit of a revolution. And at the tables there was as well the pasta (the stars, yes, those designed for children) to the marrow by Cristiano Tomei dell’Imbuto (Lucca)!
Second, the pizza
Of course, the magisterial triumphed on the stage of Identità Milano 2023 Rabbit in white royale by Carlo Cracco and Luca Sacchi. First-rate Florentine steaks and steaks flared up in plain sight in the stands and Parmigiano Reggiano stole the show with its campaign to train “parmeliers”, Parmesan sommeliers (info on parmelier. com). But the (more than) special pizza and the fancy focaccia stood out at every step.
The white pizza with potato cream seen at Petra Molino Quaglia.
Levoni involved three top-ranking pizza makers from Turin to Rome and Calabria for a grand tour of Italian pizzas by the slice, customized with a collection of ham, mortadella, limited edition premium cup: The Arteman. Seasoned like a real second Sunday lunch Bolle’s tall pizza (Monza) for Moretti Forni, with lambrusco in the dough and stew on top. A Neapolitan poem that of the Latteria Sorrentina, with Fuscella ricotta cream “in cup”, smoked provola and lemon zest (from Sorrento, of course).
Thick, crunchy and soft together at Petra Molino Quaglia melted in the mouth with its delicate potato cream. The invitation is to get the ingredients of all these original creations. And replicate in the oven at home.
Third, the rice
No third wheel, indeed, the welcome to zero gluten. For thehis “Risotto” cauliflower and juniper , Antonia Klugmann has creamed Carnaroli with a cream of rice previously soaked in cold water and left to rest, and with a brand new cauliflower milk. A masterstroke. And hello butter and parmesan. She received the “Identità di Territorio” award from Identità Milano.
Chef Antonia Klugmann in the kitchen of Identità Milano. Photo Brambilla-Serrani.
From San Massimo Reserve, the risotto became fusion under a jagged expanse of katsuobushi, Japanese smoked tuna, anything but cheese. From Apennines Food instead it has become a delicious Mantuan pumpkin arancino with Parmesan mousse and a generous sprinkling of black truffle. Counting calories is prohibited almost everywhere.
And two author’s (pasta) recipes
The Felicetti pasta factory, protagonist of “Identità di Pasta”, and two top chefs, Massimo Piccolo (Flora Restaurant, in Rome), and Andrea Alfieri (executive chef of the Magna Pars hotel, Milan), give us two original recipes with Monograno spaghetti and the excellence of our territories. They prepared them for the guests of the Trentino company’s stand at the event. You, test yourself in the kitchen.
Spaghettoni with three tomatoes
by Massimo Piccolo
Spaghettoni Felicetti by chef Massimo Piccolo of the Flora restaurant, Rome.
Ingredients for 4
180 g Felicetti spaghettoni
10 g of garlic
120 g Piennolo cherry tomatoes
120 g yellow tomatoes from the Telesina Valley
120 g Pachino cherry tomatoes
8 basil leaves
salt up to QB
90 ml of extra virgin olive oil
Method
Plunge the Pachino tomatoes in boiling water for eight minutes, cut them in half and peel them. Keep them aside. In a large pan, put the oil and garlic. When it is browned, remove the garlic from the pan and add two basil leaves. Add the Piennolo tomato and, after a minute, add the yellow tomatoes from the Telesina Valley. After another minute, the Pachino tomatoes. Let the three different tomatoes cook together for about eight minutes, adding the remaining basil and salt. Drain the spaghetti while still al dente and finish cooking for two minutes in the tomato sauce, making sure that everything mixes well. Add a drizzle of oil and serve immediately.
Spaghetti with butter, onion ash and hazelnut paste
by Andrea Alfieri
Felicetti spaghetti with butter and “charred” onion by Andrea Alfieri, executive chef of the Magna Pars Hotel, Milan.
Ingredients for 4
320 g spaghetti Felicetti “Valentino” Monograno Senatore Cappelli
80 g alpine butter
100 g Parmigiano Reggiano aged 32 months
2 large copper onions
80 g pure hazelnut paste (also found in good supermarkets)
Method
Cut the onions in 4 with the peel and cook them in the oven at 280° for 4 hours. Once “charred”, let them cool then blend them with the blender and sift everything through cheesecloth. Cook the pasta in plenty of salted water, in a saucepan melt the butter with a ladle of pasta cooking water, once the pasta is cooked, stir it in a pan with the butter, the Parmesan cheese and the onion ash. Brush the hazelnut paste on the bottom of each plate and place a nest of spaghetti on top. Top with a chervil leaf and (if possible) caramelized onion chips.
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