The Neonyt fashion trade fair in Düsseldorf presents the Green Product Award in the fashion sector. This year Hunkemöller received the main prize – and rightly so: lace, yarns, lining and cups of the “Wies” capsule collection are made from recycled materials. A defining moment for Hunkemöller and a statement to the lingerie industry: Even as an established company with a long tradition, you can make the production process sustainable. The most sustainable collection in Hunkemöller’s permanent range, “Josefina”, underlines this. The biodegradable cups consist of 30% organic material and the cup lamination is even made entirely of recycled polyester. Thanks to these improvements, each design in the collection contains at least 50% certified recycled materials.
Hunkemöller’s sustainable vision is reflected in the progressive project ‘Together Tomorrow’. How will sustainable travel continue? We spoke to Hunkemöller’s sustainability manager Anke Fransen, sustainable products expert Bodil Huisman, and CSR consultant Juliana Batitucci.
Recycling: A bra consists of up to 50 different parts
For Hunkemöller, recycling is a top priority, a challenge with great complexity, as Fransen emphasizes. “If you look at the possibilities of organic cotton trousers, it seems simple, but our products are often more complicated. A bra can contain 30 to 50 different materials that must be broken down before recycling. At the same time, these parts must meet high quality standards. Recycled materials sometimes get in the way of this requirement.”
According to Huisman, there is intensive experimentation with new recycled materials. But quality and fit must not be compromised. “Consistency is very important to us and that presents a real challenge. One step towards a circular economy is to work closely with pioneers and trusted producers. We are in constant dialogue with our main suppliers, looking together for solutions for all components and questioning existing boundaries. It’s not enough to wait – we have to act together.”
End-of-life of lingerie: “It remains a taboo”
A particular issue for Hunkemöller is responsibility after use, especially since the introduction of UPV textiles. “The legislation is becoming increasingly strict,” says Fransen. “It is important to give our products a new meaning at the end of their life cycle. But this is particularly tricky when it comes to underwear, an intimate product. When we ask our customers to return their products “Many people can’t imagine returning their worn laundry. Nevertheless, we want to explore this concept further.”
Better Procurement: Learning and Implementation Community
Juliana Batitucci, with her expertise in the CSR area, leads Hunkemöller in the “Learning and Implementation Community”, a global initiative. “We network with brands, producers and organizations such as Fair Wear and Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI). We regularly exchange information online, share best practices and develop practical action plans. One example is production planning: How can we work with our suppliers to improve conditions for workers? The factories are experts in their field and it is important for us to hear their perspective.”
“In this context, practicality is essential,” adds Fransen. “If we constantly change our designs, it directly affects the workers. They give us honest feedback about what our decisions mean for them. By listening to their experiences , we can develop efficient and sustainable solutions for the entire procurement process and adapt our corporate strategy accordingly.”
Better working conditions: wage management project
For Batitucci, procurement processes and workers’ working conditions go hand in hand. That’s why Hunkemöller launched the “Wage Management Project” in collaboration with Solidaridad. “We also cooperate with three of our factories in China,” she says. “The main aim is to improve local wage systems. Results could include higher wages, training for workers, or more transparency about their wages. This is closely linked to future due diligence laws. The time will tell.”
All of these initiatives will take time, but according to Fransen, this is exactly the right approach to sustainability – with a long-term perspective. “We will continue to expand our sustainability initiatives under the banner ‘Together Tomorrow’, because the topic is always changing. We will continue to work with various stakeholders, particularly on local projects. Change often happens at the grassroots level, both socially and environmentally.”