Qhen we talk about cosmetic treatments and anti-aging protocols, we increasingly refer tohormesis. It is a mechanism that is activated by precise, and controlled, “micro traumas” to the skin, that is, slightly annoying stimuli that have the ability to reawaken the skin regeneration mechanisms. Small stimuli that, at low intensity, they allow the epidermis to preserve tone and vitality, which is why hormésis is constantly the subject of scientific studies, as well as beauty practices. Let’s find out with two experts.
What is hormésis (and the beauty treatments that stimulate it)
Ormési is a term that derives from the Greek “ormao”, a word that means to stimulateand refers to an rbeneficial and revitalizing physiological action that the skin implements when it suffers a slight “damage”, called stressors: It’s not painful but just a little annoying.
It’s about a sort of skin automatism which happens, for example, when using the derma roller soft. «It’s a small rotating cylinder instrument with a micro pointed protrusions, painless. Used to enhance the application of a cosmetic, for example, it not only promotes its absorption, but stimulates the skin to a hormésis which reactivates the functional mechanisms of the skin cells”, explains cosmetologist Umberto Borellini member of SICC (Italian Society of Chemistry and Cosmetological Sciences).
«The very small pointed elements of the derma roller sink their tips into the skin without ever damaging it and they favor a sort of beneficial super-work for the skinwhich responds to stress by stimulating fibroblasts to produce more collagen”, explains the dermatologist.
The soft derma rollers have no tips and perform a delicate facial massage that triggers the hormésis mechanism, which stimulates skin regeneration (Instagram photo @gamzeeyoga)
Similar but different microneedling. «In this case the instrument is equipped with small needles that create mini “holes” in the epidermis capable of stimulating regenerative functions».
From dermaroller to chemical peels
There are many technologies that are being developed inspired by the concept of hormésis. «The induction of physical, chemical or thermal stress triggers some reactions such as the stimulation of fibroblasts, the production of antioxidants, the stimulus of cell turnover”, he confirms Elisabetta Fulgione, specialist in dermatology and venereology University of Campania Luigi Vanvitelli, professor at the international school of aesthetic medicine FBF Rome, aesthetic doctor National Treasurer Sime (Italian Society of Aesthetic Medicine).
Among the methodologies that refer to the concept of hormésis and which today are included in the “hormetic” anti-aging coursesstand out chemical peels. «An acidic chemical agent such as an alpha or beta hydroxy acid or trichloroacetic acid is applied to the skin to carry out a superficial dermal-epidermal exfoliation, which is much more used than the dermal one which goes very deep», says Elisabetta Fulgione.
«The “damage” caused by these chemicals causes a response local: the cells are stimulated to activate inflammatory pathways and regeneration and repair mechanisms, with an increase in collagen and elastin.”
Laser resurfacing
Also therapy with laser resurfacing acts by inducing hormesis in epidermal and dermal cells, and the related activation of regeneration and repair processes. There are two types. “In the ablative version the concentrated light beam selectively destroys the tissues of the epidermis, subsequently stimulating their regenerating and repairing activities. In that non-ablative lower intensity infrared radiation is exploited: it penetrates the dermis, heating and reactivating the fibroblasts, leaving the epidermal cells intact.”
«Furthermore, a very valid method is the photodynamic therapy (PDT) which uses different wave frequencies, allowing intense dermal stimulation, and consequently favors the production of new collagen without damage to the epidermis.”
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