Only salt is more important. Pepper, at least in Western cuisine, is the undisputed number two of the most frequently used spices. Although probably the majority of Germans use pepper from the shaker, pepper mills have a permanent place in many households. Unfortunately, the contents of the mill are not always given the attention they deserve. Although most distinguish between black, white, red and green pepper, the fact that there is a huge variety of varieties is often overlooked, especially since many cookbook authors and even some star chefs simply state “pepper” in the recipes.
It makes a huge difference whether you use black Malabar, white Kampot or red Szechuan pepper. Not least because some varieties aren’t biologically speaking at all. Originating from West Africa
The highly aromatic Malagueta, for example, belongs to the ginger family and owes its discovery to the Portuguese attempt to break the Venetians’ monopoly on spices. The fraud with the “Grains of Paradise” was soon exposed, but at some point they were adopted into the pepper family. This consists of the fruits of the Piper nigrum, the original plant from the Malabar Coast in southwest India, where it has been cultivated for four thousand years. In Europe it was first mentioned in 400 BC. by Hippocrates as a remedy and aphrodisiac.
The most widespread is the commercially available “Indian” black pepper, which nowadays mainly comes from Vietnam
Greeks, Romans and later all other Europeans went crazy for the expensive pearls that were brought to the West by Arab Nabataeans and Jewish Radanites. Today, around two thousand species are known, but only two dozen are used as spices. Whether Tasmanian mountain pepper from Australia, cubeb from Indonesia or the elongated black pepper from West Africa: in their compendium simply entitled “Pepper”, Nathalie Pernstich-Amend and Konrad Pernstich provide exhaustive information about history, varieties and application.
The most widespread is the commercially available “Indian” black pepper, which nowadays mainly comes from Vietnam. There is nothing wrong with it, it reliably gives meals a certain spiciness and spice. However, complex aromas are not his specialty. These can be found in the noble varieties, which are mostly named after their origin. The Tellicherry from the Malabar coast, which is often offered as a “gourmet pepper”, has the classic Indian taste, but ripens longer, acquires a reddish shimmer and a much more intense, very slightly sweet aroma. It is particularly suitable as an all-rounder in stews.
The ripe white peppers are even nobler. In contrast to green pepper, which is harvested unripe and is therefore very mild, the fruits are only harvested when they are deep red. They are then peeled, either traditionally by water fermentation and trampling, or using enzymes, until only the light-colored core remains, which further fades as a result of sun drying. Especially the Cambodian Kampot plays in a league of its own.
Whether Maultasche, turbot or lamb: its subtle, citrusy and earthy aroma, combined with its pungency that gently irritates the palate, teases out the maximum individual taste from sensitive dishes. At best, it is surpassed by the Japanese white Sansho, a descendant of the Chinese Szechuan, which, by the way, are neither types of pepper, but relatives of citrus fruits. While the Szechuan impresses above all with its sharpness, the Sansho has a milder but more intense aroma and gives not only fried and steamed products, but also soups, sauces and salads an unmistakable touch. Like all quality products from Japan, it is a rare commodity, complex to manufacture, outrageously expensive and usually sold out. So count yourself lucky if you can get hold of a jar of it somewhere.