Science fiction is a tool for ambitious thinkers. That was the message that ran like a red thread through the presentation of the leather trends at the international leather fair Lineapelle in New York last week.
But just as science fiction is difficult to define, so is ambiguity in trend forecasting, with references to science, technology, AI and human exploration, and the vast global uncertainty that permeates every facet of the industry. She is in the process of recalibrating herself, venturing into uncharted territory, critically examining the past and looking into an unclear future.
The fashion industry is like the character of Paul Atreides, played by Timothée Chalamet in the remake of the sci-fi classic Dune: Inheriting an inheritance that comes with enormous obligations and difficulties. The color palettes for fall 2023 feature neutral tones – beige, sand, concrete – complemented by tamarind, coriander, nutmeg, cumin, turmeric, chili and cardamom. It is also a spice that is at the center of the conflict in Dune stands, a substance that gives vitality and strength and that caused the war on the desert planet of Arrakis. Shades of green mixed with moody and icy shades of blue round off the palette and give hope for better days.
There is arguably no clothing material that represents combat in this not always friendly environment better than leather. A living being is killed and its skin ‘harvested’ to provide humans with this luxury material. But during the presentation it is also said that nothing is obsolete anymore; nothing is destroyed. In the future everything will be transformed and designed for reuse.
ethics and ingenuity
Fashion has to be in constant motion and in flux. Science fiction is speculative and dependent on human imagination. The constant scrolling that seems to be becoming the new human condition must have content and therein lies freedom and the possibility of existence. But while science fiction often evokes a sense of wonder, there is a general sense of deja vu. Clicking the Like button is the last resort.
Ethics and research are constant companions. Undyed, natural materials that save water and energy and reduce pollution are key, but this has been around for many years. Superfluous steps are now removed from the manufacturing processes, while the technology ensures that no essential elements are lost. Glue, for example, is being replaced by technology that assembles a garment in a single step. Leather is complemented with technology to increase performance.
retro future
For fall 2023, the industry is reflecting on its heritage and exploring its archives. However, modern know-how and cutting-edge technology are used. For example, Chanel-style tweeds are reused, and embroideries and jacquards are made with fewer steps. Crafts and traditions from around the world are being discovered by younger generations. Shiny, cuddly and padded, for example, in an oversize jacket that was formed from luxurious, light nappa and finished with an environmentally friendly shine.
In the ‘Reptilarium’, alligator and snake skin effects are achieved with visionary printing processes. In this world, which is neither new nor old, the possibilities are endless and hybrids are everywhere. Starting from scratch, science and technology define the conditions for collaboration, cooperation and coexistence needed to be successful.
Digi Real
When reality and virtual intersect, hyperreality begins. The result is pretty but subversive fabrics reminiscent of cell structures viewed under a microscope. Or beautifully hued micropixels that evoke the long shadow of the pandemic and the lifetime spent in front of screens.
“I want to be perfect and unique. Like everyone else,” it says. We appreciate templates, filters, and backgrounds that hide our chaotic life on Zoom, but we still value a sense of individuality. With that in mind, next fall we’ll see classics with a touch of novelty.
The traditional romance of the street has been replaced by the mysterious call of an alien landscape. We’re time acrobats, responding to fuzzy sounds and vibrations and anticipating visions of the future just enough to keep our interest. Innovations have only just begun and we need new words to define these new concepts.
This article was previously published on FashionUnited.uk. Translation and editing: Barbara Russ