When you think of Levi’s, you think of the 501, the company’s trademark. With their high waist and straight legs, these jeans have been cut the same for 150 years. And yet it has changed more than meets the eye: Levi’s recently introduced a “Plant-based 501” that consists of 97 percent plant-based material.
FashionUnited spoke to Paul Dillinger, Levi’s sustainability expert and Vice President of Global Design Innovation, about this innovation and other sustainability approaches in the fashion industry. At the Copenhagen Fashion Week, which was all about innovation, he gave insights into his work in the Levi’s showroom in central Copenhagen.
The 501 celebrates its 150th anniversary this year. What makes this jeans style so successful?
The appeal of the 501 lies in the accessibility of the model: it’s a jean for everyone. Some 501s that are 40 years old are now resold as vintage pants. Certain pieces of clothing I wore 40 years ago I wouldn’t even want to touch today, but jeans have the power to be timeless. This is also reflected in the quality of the trousers: they have not changed for 150 years.
What were the biggest changes in those 150 years in terms of quality and material of the 501?
Although the composition of the fabric is evolving, it is still crucial that it meets the same rigorous standards. It happens often enough that a newly developed fabric fails our test and then it doesn’t last. We will always ensure our quality.
Last year, a new composition passed the test, consisting of 40 percent circulose, an innovative Swedish material, and 60 percent organic cotton. Circulose is a sustainably produced viscose that is partly made from recycled denim and textiles that are no longer needed.
To celebrate the 501’s birthday this year, we launched the Plant-Based 501, made with at least 97 percent plant-based materials, using fully certified organic cotton, natural dyes and a plant-based patch with ink made from wood waste.
Can you give other examples of how Levi’s is using new methods or innovative technologies to make production more sustainable?
In November, Levi’s invested in Stony Creek Colors, a start-up that was the first to naturally produce indigo dye in liquid form. With the investment, we don’t want to have a monopoly on the technology, we want other companies to use it as well. Because it is only by using them on a large scale that we can achieve the intended positive impact on the environment.
How is Levi’s sourcing materials in a market struggling with inflation and rising costs?
For us, the falling sales at our wholesalers have had no impact on the procurement of our material, our cotton. The price of cotton would only change if something happened to the climate: a flood in Brazil or a drought in India. But even if that were to happen, as a global brand with a global crop, we have ways to make up for it.
How can Levi’s balance profitability with its long-term sustainability goals?
This question is linked to the following: How can we prioritize sustainability if consumers do not? It’s a mistake to consider sustainability as an option because as a brand you can no longer evade it. Especially in Europe, where new legislation like extended producer responsibility is completely changing the retail landscape. So as a brand you have to accept that there are no choices when it comes to sustainability, otherwise you will soon no longer be able to compete.
What advice do you have for smaller brands trying to stay afloat in times of inflation and rising costs while remaining sustainable?
A smaller brand should focus on improving their own product. This is the only way to win and grow as a smaller company. Finally, the lack of economies of scale means you can never compete on price with bigger brands, which is why you need to offer something that’s distinctive. Do something cool and unique that we as a large multinational with all our testing and validation can’t do and charge more for it.
Do you have any practical tips for these smaller brands?
Our sustainability course is based on our ‘life cycle assessment’, a process that assesses a product’s impact on the environment throughout its life cycle. Such an assessment is incredibly expensive. That’s why any brand that conducts such an assessment wants to shout it from the rooftops. Our results and those of brands like Nike and Patagonia can be viewed online. Such an LCA contains a lot of useful information for other brands. Sharing information makes a big issue like sustainability smaller.
This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.nl. Translated from English and edited by Simone Preuss.