In today’s highly competitive fashion arena, calling yourself an ‘environmentally conscious’ brand is nothing out of the ordinary. Still, it remains an important — and often unverifiable — selling point in segments where progress still needs to be made. For example with running shoes. In order to close this gap, the young French brand Circle has decided to offer what it calls “the most environmentally friendly running shoe in the world” for pre-order.
The Circle team intends to spread the brand around the world. “We have an idea in mind that tomorrow or the day after Circle will be the global reference when looking for ecological sportswear,” founder Romain Trebuil told FashionUnited.
In 2020, founders Romain Trébuil and Alex Auroux began having Circle’s first 1,500 orders delivered by bike across France. A significant signal for a company that focuses on local production as much as possible.
The products are made near Porto partly from recycled plastic bottles. Other materials used are polyamide, elastane and micro-modal, a material made from wood and produced in Austria. The items are assembled in Portugal because the brand pays attention to short distances.
“It was an industrial challenge and an incredible innovation,” says Romain of the SuperNatural Runner, Circle’s first running shoe. “We did something that nobody has done before. We have developed solutions with partners and implemented them industrially. They invested in machines that didn’t exist in Europe.”
A running shoe made in Europe
However, Circle isn’t the only brand offering what it calls an “ethical and responsible running shoe.” The American company Allbirds, for example, offers running shoes whose composition contains bio-based materials. The B.Corp-certified company also points to the reduction in energy consumption during production. However, like most running shoes, the Allbirds shoe is made in Vietnam.
In 2023, fashion brands can no longer simply use a few recycled components to sell a “sustainable” product. Sustainability claims are now being scrutinized by the authorities. Greenwashing should be put to an end by banning vague formulations by companies. For example, since January 1, 2023, Article 12 of the Law on Climate and Resilience (Loi Climat et Résilience) in France prohibits claiming that a product is “carbon neutral” without providing proof. Other claims are also likely to be investigated by authorities in the coming months and years.
In this context, Circle has decided to take a more radical step than its competitors, opting for European manufacturing. Designed in Italy and assembled in Portugal, the sneaker was developed with two partners: The Woolmark Company for the wool and wood fiber upper and Lafuma for the vegetable and castor oil sole.
For the sale, the company has opted for the pre-order model – 150 euros when pre-ordered, then 200 euros. Although the sneaker will only be available in a year, the customers are already there: “We have 250 [Bestellungen] got it in a week,” Romain said at the end of January.
In addition, the purchase includes more than just the purchase of a shoe. Romain explains: “The delivery is in a year, that means we will involve the community in this project, we will open the doors of our factories, we will let them meet the people who made the product, we will let them in the latest technical tests, include in the choice of design. It’s a real project. We’re not just committed to a product that we’re going to wear, we’re committed to changing the world of running.” In addition to sales, the brand has also built a community around sport, such as through yoga and running clubs .
New financing round planned for 2023
Three years after its inception, Circle has proven that its model is on the right track. The company completed a financing round in 2022 and is planning a second round of four to five million euros for 2023.
In 2022, the company accelerated its e-commerce growth and developed a broader physical distribution by opening retail spaces in the department stores Le Bon Marché, La Samaritaine, Galeries Lafayette and Au Vieux Campeur and today has more than 15 points of sale. “For us, it wasn’t primarily about the number, but more about having the best department stores on the one hand and the best sales areas on the other,” says Romain, who is now happy that he no longer has to advertise for sales outlets, since they come straight to him.
He also emphasizes that he strives for a balanced retail inventory: “We don’t want to be dependent on a single channel or sales platform. We see that discovering the brand in one place and then another creates an ultra-positive dynamic.”
The goal for the end of 2023 is the opening of a pop-up that will be set up in the long term “with a real experience”. The company is also considering international expansion, to Switzerland, England, the Netherlands, Germany and the Nordic countries. “These are markets where sport and sustainability are very strong values and to which the brand fits.”
In e-commerce, the company has tripled its sales and expanded its product range with new colors. “We also had a desire to create a brand. We didn’t do a rebrand, but we adjusted our platform, our website and so on. This is something that gave us a big bonus because it brought us even closer to our community while increasing brand visibility.”
For 2023, the brand is targeting sales of between 1.5 and 2 million euros, but above all it wants to consolidate its approach. “We try to do everything at the right pace, do things cleanly and have as organic growth as possible that is consistent with our community. Since we implemented all these aspects, things have been going really well. We’re really happy with it.”
This article was similarly published on FashionUnited.fr. Translation and editing: Barbara Russ