The designers of Seoul Fashion Week create very bold designs and experiment with different silhouettes, asymmetry and patterns.
Even though black plays an important role in many of the collections, colors and bright designs are also used. On the other hand, there are dark looks like Iryuk, which are reminiscent of the Gothic scene, as well as styles with lots of leather. There are also very sporty, young styles for Gen Z and designs that, like Lie Sang Bong, bring the cultural heritage of South Korea to life with their cuts, patterns and fabrics – with a modern twist.
As different as the collections and styles are, the range of younger and long-established designers and collectives is just as wide. The ‘Seoul Collection’ format, for example, has existed since the turn of the millennium, in which the “top Korean designers” show their collections. Along with the ‘Generation Next’ format, which promotes independent brands under the age of seven, these two concepts make up today’s Seoul Fashion Week, which ended on Sunday. FashionUnited got an overview of the more than 30 shows for autumn/winter 23 and summarized the highlights and trends.
Sleeveless blazers
One of the most popular pieces Seoul brands are experimenting with this season is the blazer. It’s not necessarily about the silhouette and details like flared shoulders, but rather less fabric.
Some shortened models could be seen, but above all blazers with bare arms. Label Mmam sent several versions straight down the runway, including sleeveless ones and sleeves that drape behind the arms. Lie showed off a very wide vest that was more blazer-like in silhouette, and Iryuk exposed just one shoulder in an asymmetrical blazer.
shoulder throw
Other brands meanwhile rely on an extra layer for the shoulders. Beyond Closet featured several loose collars with hoods worn over t-shirts and jackets. Acceptance Letter Studio created an olive green high neck quilted throw and M.Rof sent a lightweight hooded harness made from a cotton fabric down the runway.
aprons and dungarees
However, Acceptance Letter Studio also designed less experimental pieces and incorporated workwear into the collection. The brand presented a long, cream-white apron with a black leather insert. Charms also made use of workwear and created quite simple dungarees.
With M.Rof it became more experimental again. The label featured a quilted light blue apron that hits just above the hips and is held in place with just one diagonal strap.
stuffed animals
One of the cutest accessories and details seen during Seoul Fashion Week are teddy bears and other stuffed animals. Whether clutched tightly as a companion or as a detail on items of clothing such as skirts, sweaters and jackets, the plush friends ensure a heart-warming look. This trend was seen in Lie, Greedilous and Ajobyajo.
buttons
Another very popular detail at Seoul Fashion Week were buttons used on various jackets and blazers at Beyond Closet, Not Enof Words Dearlife and Holy Number 7. The rule seems to be: the more the better.
Ivy League
Some brands also seem to have looked across the Pacific and taken inspiration from US colleges and high schools. The reason for this could be the increasing nationwide popularity of series such as the teenage drama Euphoria, whose styling and actors have already sparked one or the other trend.
Different types of school uniforms with cropped tops and miniskirts could be seen. Of course, college jackets and looks with large logos reminiscent of sports teams could not be missing.
There were also a few jerseys like Ajobyajo’s. The label sent a baseball jersey down the runway, a sport that’s also very popular in Korea.
Three stripes
Ul:kin and Ordinary People also remain sporty. Both brands have incorporated adidas branding into their collections. For example, Ul:kin showed track pants with the ‘Three Stripes’ and an upside down Adidas logo. At Ordinary People, the logos of the sports goods manufacturer from Herzogenaurach – including the trefoil of the lifestyle line Adidas Originals – appeared on several pieces, including a beret, a blazer and a balaclava.
It is not clear whether this is an official cooperation with the German sports brand. Adidas has not yet responded to a request from FashionUnited. In the case of Ordinary People, however, the fact that Adidas did not receive any credits in an associated Instagram post in which one of the pieces can be seen would speak against it.
Live performances
Overall, the Seoul Fashion Week relies on a more classic catwalk without a specific setting, as is the case with many major European fashion houses. However, some brands still put on a show – but mostly as a grand finale.
There was a lot on offer, from dance and singing performances to the drag show by Not Enof Words Dearlife, in which artist Bori pulled off his wig at the end. #whysocerealz! made the whole presentation a performance with dance and drama – including various everyday situations such as scenes at school, in the gym and with a homeless person.
You can see the whole spectacle in the following video.
But there was also a grand finale at the end of the fashion week, in which all the collections were shown again in an extra show. The spectacle was accompanied by a singer.