D.fter the Chanel traveling shows, in Montecarlo, e Louis Vuitton, in San Diegolast night the wait went on stage Gucci fashion showdedicated to the season Resort 2023in the heart of the Pugliain the evocative setting of Castel del Monte. A medieval setting, one of a kind, was the backdrop to a layered and complex collection, full of references and quotes, but with very Instagram-friendly.
The inspirations behind the Gucci show
Nothing was left to chance, neither in the choice of location, nor in the date set for the fashion show. In fact, May 16 coincided with an astronomical phenomenon known as the Superluna di Sangue, atotal lunar eclipse that tinges the moon red, the one that last night illuminated the Gucci catwalk in Puglia. For a collection entitled Cosmogoniesannounced by the invitation to the show in which the brand announced that it had “adopted” a star for each guest, the reference to constellations and ai celestial bodies could not miss.
The look that closed the Gucci show, a velvet dress depicting the celestial constellations
«The idea of Cosmogony was born at the same time as the choice of the place. Before thinking about the collection, a Gucci bag that belonged to came to my office Greta Garbo – small, with Persian-inspired jacquard designs. A signal: it meant something … And it occurred to me that in everyday conversations I am told that when I speak I build constellations … In a moment the idea of the collection arrived and at the same time the choice of Frederick’s castle “, about the creative director of the maison Alessandro Michele.
Castel del Monte, between past and future
In the Gucci fashion show, the Cosmogonies, the constellationswhich animate Michele’s thought and creative work, have ranged between references and quotations that are also distant from each other. Castel del Montefor example, a construction of the thirteenth century commissioned by Frederick II of Swabia hides an esoteric and deeply symbolic soul, enclosed in the peculiar shape of its structure, on an octagonal base, in the recurrence of the number 8 inside, and in the rooms, all in the shape of a trapezoid.
The final release of the models had the illuminated castle as a background, depicting the star constellations
This stellar universe also becomes the bridge, the link between the Italian designer and the German philosopher and writer Walter Benjamin. Of this intellectual Alessandro Michele especially appreciates the ability to unite “yesterday and today”: “it is not that the past sheds light on the present or the present sheds light on the past, but the image is that in which what has been unites in a flash with the now in a constellation, ”wrote Benjamin. The same path taken by this Gucci collection, capable of harmoniously condensing different references, distant in time and space, but which take on a uniform character if translated into the aesthetic universe of this maison. 1940s silhouette, cruissardes Leather, latex gloveslogoed hats, and more, medieval surplice revisited in the form of hoods and hoods, ruff transformed into cuffs or large necklaces to frame the visa, the Resort 2023 collection is a melting pot of eras, aesthetics, inspirations that speak to a global audience.
The impalpable dress is worn with the leather cruissardes and the XL gorget, in the necklace version
Gucci Resort 2023: transparencies, shimmers and black & white
«I always do shine clothes, if I can. Things that shine make shapes ambiguous. The collection has turned into one party: the shapes come from the Thirties and Forties… Then while I was composing a rave of clothesfrom the multitudes and people who try to be something. Bodies that become clothes and clothes that become bodies. ” Alessandro Michele summed up the collection in this way Resort 2023in which sensual cut-out dresses alternate with tailored suits in psychedelic prints, in which jeans, a reference to the Tom Ford era, follow a look with a Seventies flavor, while a series of creations in which leather, velvet, lace and feathers tell of intellectual opulence.
The cut-out velvet dress reveals the navel, a contemporary twist on a silhouette with a classic flavor
Among the accessories the very long ones stand out pearl necklaces worn as a choker, the earrings that decorate the face, inspired by Berber weddings, the bag by Greta Garbo, the jewels, worn on the wrist or hidden under double-breasted jackets, the Seventies sunglasses, the spotted berets but with a riding soul , the tiaras with embedded earrings that recall the surplice of the knights. And again, the ballet flats tied around the ankle, the biker boots, the platform sandals with straps that reach mid-calf, everything is variegated, multiform.
For Gucci Resort 2023 the strings of pearls must be voluminous, almost forming a top, to be worn on the skin
The Måneskin in the front row of Gucci
Gucci shows have always recalled a parterre de roi first-rate and the fashion show in Puglia was no exception. The brand has indeed welcomed Emma Marrone, Alessandro Borghi, Dakota Johnson, Lana del Rey, Elle Fanningand especially i Måneskin, who performed during the after party. In recent months the Italian band has established a very fruitful creative collaboration with Gucci, including campaigns and outfits created specifically for their concerts.
Thus the fashion show in Puglia Gucci brought to the stage a real showevocative, dreamy, as only great fashion can do.
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