Diversity is an indispensable part of any discussion that deals with the topic of sustainability. This was a focus of the panel discussion “How to Clothe 10 Billion People Sustainably,” held at this year’s COP28 and moderated by Muchaneta ten Napel. The founder of fashion consultancy Shape Innovate said she intentionally brought together people from all parts of the supply chain to decipher and consider “actionable solutions” that contribute every step of the way.
These included Ganni co-founder and designer Nicolaj Reffstrup, Fashion Revolution Brazil managing director Fernanda Simon and Sophie Aujean, head of social advocacy at Fairtrade International in Belgium. Other participants included Partnership Advisor at Ghana-based The Or Foundation, Neesha-Ann Longdon, and Head of Sustainability at supplier PT Pan Brothers Tbk, Boadi Satrio, who rounded out the wide-ranging panel.
While Ten Napel explained that she doesn’t want to focus too much on problems, she acknowledged that this is an inevitable starting point for breaking down solutions. This topic ultimately formed the basis for further discussion, in which all participants were asked what problems they faced in their own work area in connection with the introduction of more sustainability. From deforestation to increasing textile waste to financial incentives, a variety of setbacks were cited, but one cause was addressed by Fairtrade employee Aujean.
When asked for her opinion, she said: “For us, the biggest problem is that the fashion industry is driven by buyers, which means there is a huge power imbalance between them and suppliers. This is the cause of many chains of human rights violations afterwards. If suppliers don’t feel like they have a say, they’re in a situation where they can’t really ensure that human rights are respected, and that puts a lot of pressure on them, and that in turn puts a lot of pressure on the workers Cotton farmers and cotton farmers are under great pressure.”
Politics and Finance
While the discussion about policy and regulations is currently widespread, particularly among European Union member states – as demonstrated by the organization’s recent framework for revising and creating policy to enforce circular economy and sustainability – panelists emphasized the need for a multi stakeholder approach to formulate effective means of change and bring to light a broader range of regulations that are currently missing. The participants agreed that the measures taken are not only suitable for larger companies and areas, but also for smaller companies. At the same time, a deeper understanding of international and monetary realities should be created in order to create more inclusive and accessible opportunities.
The last of these realities – money – was of course at the forefront of the discussion. Speaking about scalable innovations that help brands comply with legislation, Ganni’s Reffstrup, known for integrating next-gen materials into the core of the Danish brand, said that problems arise when no one is ready ” to take over the bill.” The designer pointed out that while there are many startups inventing and developing new technologies, they are struggling to establish themselves because they are dealing with a system that has been perfected for hundreds of years. “Many companies are happy to have a collaboration or marketing partnership with these startups, but if you don’t commit to integrating them into the core of your business, it won’t have any impact,” he said.
Reffstrup continued that the financial costs of implementing sustainable solutions into a brand’s operations should not be passed on to consumers, pointing to alternatives such as tax-deductible incentives that would directly impact how a brand operates company is run. Or’s Longdon reiterated Reffstrup’s arguments, adding: “Compensation needs to change. This doesn’t just apply to the fashion industry. That’s why we’re all at the COP, because we’re trying to achieve a more sustainable future. But the truth is that the incentives are not where they need to be for this to happen.”
Price also came up in other parts of the conversation. From the perspective of PT’s Satrio, for example, such costs, including the costs of ensuring labor rights, cannot be borne by manufacturing companies alone. “A brand cannot be one-sided,” he noted, “it has to understand the entire supply chain. I think manufacturers should be vocal about that [ein bestimmter] Price is not possible. The brand should take manufacturers into consideration so that the industry can grow together. There’s always someone who has somehow paid the price.”
So how do you clothe 10 billion people sustainably?
There was similar concern about the certifications required to demonstrate such efforts. One person in the audience pointed out that obtaining a Fairtrade certificate can be costly, especially for smaller companies. The organization’s Aujean linked these costs to the sustainability and due diligence systems that must be put in place to ensure the necessary credibility. She added: “We are really trying to support businesses in setting up these systems. And I think the key to this is that governments create the framework in terms of incentives to ensure that prices remain affordable for customers.
It is clear that monetary incentives were one of the key solutions agreed upon by the panel, but the issue of accountability and responsibility was also at the forefront of participants’ minds. Or’s Longdon said it’s important to move away from the concept of “blame,” which often leads to defensiveness, and move toward the question, “Who is my product responsible for when it reaches end of life?” she added added that lack of time was a barrier to getting more consumers on board and informed, noting: “Instead [Verbraucher:innen] To convince people with arguments, I advise people above all to invest in quality instead of quantity.”
She later explained that producing quality for all is a key element in bringing stakeholders and representatives together, and that environmental and social issues are very much linked, as shown by increasing clothing poverty in the UK people struggle to afford access to appropriate clothing. Gannis Reffstrup took a similar stance, shifting responsibility even further away from the consumer. The designer said brands shouldn’t expect these people to have in-depth knowledge of impact or certifications. Answering the key question of the panel discussion, the designer brought the solutions back to both technology and people.
Satrio also shared this view and concluded: “It’s about the people. The ‘people’ are very important because we have a very labor intensive industry. We also care about the climate, but the most important thing is the people. People need to be resilient. Then they can adapt over time and become part of the community along with the rest of the global team.”
This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.uk. Translated and edited by Simone Preuss.