Hard and delicate – Prada’s new collection moves between these two poles. The contrasting looks were presented on Thursday afternoon at Milan Fashion Week. The trends for the spring/summer 2024 season can be seen there until Monday.
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, the creative duo of the Milanese trend label, offered elegant organza dresses in pastel tones that were surrounded by a transparent layer of gauze. Then they changed to black leather with silver rivets and crystal embroidery. A key element of her collection is fringes – initially used as a decorative detail, they eventually become a skirt element worn over shorts. Traditionally, masculine elements flow into Prada’s new women’s fashion with sturdy pea coats and derby shoes.
Etro in “Nowhere”
The new collection from Etro is located in “nowhere”. Creative director Marco De Vincenzo sees it as a place that is only made possible through imagination. He outlined his concept in the press release. This is what it looked like on the catwalk on Wednesday evening: brocade meets western, terry cloth meets denim. Jackets and blazers with protective volume are layered over body-hugging items of clothing. An ancient octopus symbol is the decorative leitmotif, which is accompanied by complex, opulent patterns.
A “women’s army” at Max Mara
Max Mara, on the other hand, sent an “army of women” down the catwalk on Thursday morning. The starting point for the show was the “Women’s Land Army”, an English organization that maintained supplies to the country during World War II while the men fought at the front. Many elements from workers’ clothing such as overalls or shirts and jackets with patch pockets were transferred to the collection and interpreted in a feminine way. But there were also crisp shorts, delicate silk tops, wide, casual coats and lots of knitwear. And all in the colors of nature.
Aigner brings Munich to Milan
Aigner returned to the Milan catwalk after four years. Christian Alexander Beck, the creative director of the Munich-based label, was influenced by the British art and design movement Arts and Crafts from the late 19th century for this collection. Its central motif is a floral pattern, inspired by the work of William Morris, one of the founders of this style. For example, it was implemented as a tattoo effect on a body made of tulle. Another highlight were garments made of transparent silk decorated with silicone flowers.
In the coming days, other greats of Italian fashion will be on the program at Milan Fashion Week. Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci and Giorgio Armani, among others, will present their latest women’s collections. (dpa)