From barges to BarConi: the stories of migrants who became ice cream makers in Ballarò

Lo spirit of the place is already understood from the name. “BarConi is a word that refers to the desperate journeys of migrants but that transforms, becomes a Bar that makes ice cream cones, and is filled with hope»Says Giovanni Zinna. He is the coordinator of the BarConi project for Many many, a social enterprise active in the heart of Ballarò that manages the restaurant of the same name. The restaurant opens today, Saturday 11 June, in the colorful and famous market of Palermo: overlooking the Mediterranean square, a place torn from neglect and “adopted” by the neighborhood, in the bustle of tourists and Palermo, right next to the “panellaro”.

The story of Malick, who arrived from Libya on a boat

There are four very young boys who manage it: how Malick Elagie, 22, originally from Gambia. «Until recently the boat was for me the one with which I arrived in Italy 5 years ago, from Libya. A boat of which I remember little, apart from the departure, at midnight: I was so sick that I was unconscious most of the time. Today it is wonderful to work in this BarConi ».

Malick had already been “recruited” by Moltivolti as a tourist broker: from 2018, thanks to the project Through my eyes, told Ballarò, his Ballarò, to those interested in listening. «When I arrived I dreamed of leaving immediately for Rome but then Palermo convinced me to stay. Now this neighborhood is familiar to me, I’m fine“. He is also a photographer and lives in a community but dreams of renting a house of his own, near the market: «It costs a little, we’ll see!», He says.

Cristine: “I am a brave woman aboard this … BarConi”

Behind the counter with Malick there will also be Egla, from Ghana, and Leslie, from the Ivory Coast, who are currently studying for their final exams. Cristine is older, but not too big either. “I don’t know how to make ice cream, but yesam a brave woman, I can learn, ”she says. «So I convinced Giovanni to let me get on this BarConi.

Twenty-six years and 3 children aged 6, 4 and 2, she “arrived in Italy in 2013. Pushed by my mother, who wanted to give me a future,” she says. “I tried, to study, but when I got pregnant with my husband, I had to give up and I became a housewife. I thought my life would end like this. But now I have this beautiful future ahead of me ».

The target? A fleet of BarCons

The BarConi’s bartenders and ice cream makers therefore come from Central Africa and the Maghreb. They are and will be involved in a training and apprenticeship path that will gradually lead them to independently manage the ice cream parlor, from production to sale.

Zinna explains: «This is the challenge: who are no longer employees but entrepreneurs in a year’s time. So that, starting from this experience, a huge fleet of BarCones can be born: similar places throughout Sicily and throughout Italyplaces where the diversity of those behind the counter is a value, as it is ».

Leslie, Egla, Malik and two other guys from the Barconi staff.

Leslie, Egla, Malik and two other guys from the staff of the BarConi ice cream parlor in Palermo (press office photo).

The ice creams are signature, with a Mediterranean flavor

The project, realized thanks to the support of Fred Foundation and of Haiku Lugano Swiss Foundationmakes use of the technical support of Antonio Cappadonia. One of the best known ice cream masters in Italywinner of countless prizes and awards who has recently developed his format of artisan ice cream parlors in Palermo.

Dedicated to the new opening, the Moltivolti taste, a taste that tells the Mediterranean. It is in fact an ice cream al peanut butter“A condiment much loved by the community of Ballarò as well as a fundamental ingredient for the preparation of many African recipes”, says Campo.

With a variegation of rice puffed, «cereal that unites all food cultures of the world» and zeist di lemon «Which brings us back to the scents of our land: the Mediterranean», concludes the master ice cream maker.

From the fire to the rebirth: “We raised 140 thousand euros in 5 days”

How much migrants and the community of people that revolve around Moltivolti are part of the social fabric of Palermo is evident. «You will have heard of the fire that completely destroyed our restaurant in January», recalls Giovanni Zinna: «In just 5 days, thanks to the Libera association, we collected 140 thousand euros and rebuilt everything. Here, I would like to say this: people certainly didn’t give us money out of guilt. But out of a sense of belonging“.

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