Ukrainian couture-to-wear brand Frolov, founded by Ivan Frolov, presented its first standalone show at London Fashion Week over the weekend. The Kiev-based designer uses his creations to highlight the pride and resilience of his homeland and the challenges the country faces due to the ongoing war with Russia.
Frolov, who has become known in recent years for creating bespoke looks for stars such as Beyoncé, Dua Lipa, Gwen Stefani and Sam Smith, presented a poignant and heartfelt salon show at the Bulgari Hotel’s cinema hall, showcasing his signature sexy women’s fashion combined with videos and music from the archive showing Ukrainian culture and his hometown of Kiev.
For Spring/Summer 2024, Frolov was inspired by themes of youthfulness, playfulness and freedom for a collection titled “Moloda,” which means “young girl” in Ukrainian. This was reflected in sculptural silhouettes decorated with roses inspired by Ukrainian artist Zhanna Kadyrova. Likewise in the brand’s characteristic hearts, which were incorporated into silk robe dresses in the form of an ultrasound print.
The collection also featured a number of Frolov bestsellers, including corsets with heart details and dresses and stockings embellished with Swarovski crystals. Another homage to the Ukrainian capital was the gold lace on dresses with chestnuts, the symbolic tree of Kiev.
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Ahead of his LFW show, FashionUnited chatted with Ivan Frolov via email about the inspiration for his SS24 collection, the impact of the war on him and his team, and his plans to establish the brand in Europe, the US and the Middle East.
Can you tell us a little about yourself and the story of your brand?
I can still vividly remember my first sketch, which I drew on the packaging of a chocolate bar as a 4-year-old child. From that moment on I knew I wanted to be a designer. What has always fascinated me most about this path is not just the creation of fashion items themselves, but rather their role in expressing the messages I want to convey.
That’s why, almost ten years ago, when I founded my brand, our mission was clear: to use fashion as a platform to address provocative and sensitive topics. We explored various topics such as transsexual culture, the ethics and aesthetics of BDSM, fetishism, LGBTQ+ rights and the objectification of women.
Each of our collections begins with thorough research and an understanding of the messages we want to convey. We see fashion as a powerful medium to convey these messages to a wider audience, spark meaningful conversations and challenge societal norms.
How does it feel to have a standalone show at LFW?
We are extremely honored to present our first solo show and to be on the official program of London Fashion Week this season. This recognition is of particular importance to us as Ukrainians, as we continue to face challenges in view of the war with Russia that is being waged against us. We see ourselves as culture warriors determined to keep the conversation about Ukraine alive on all possible fronts.
The British Fashion Council and London Fashion Week have generously supported our vision and enabled us to use this platform to showcase our creations to a global audience. It is an opportunity for us to convey our unwavering commitment to our core mission, regardless of the circumstances.
What was the inspiration for your Spring/Summer 2024 collection?
Her name is Moloda (Ukrainian for “young girl”) because it is our tradition to give our collections names. But for me it’s not about age. It’s about the feeling of youthfulness, blossom, energy, freedom and metamorphoses.
We use different elements to show this, for example some roses in gray color inspired by stone and cement sculptures by Ukrainian artist Zhanna Kadyrova. These artworks gave me the idea of sculpture-like silhouettes decorated with roses. The collection also includes Frolov’s all-time bestsellers, such as corsets and corset dresses decorated with Swarovski crystals, which the brand had specially designed by crystal masters.
The work on the collection and the show were also accompanied by songs from the Ukrainian variety music scene of the 70s. “A Red Rose” and “Chestnuts are falling” by Yulia Pashkovska; “My love” by Lina Prohorova; “Fog in the valley” by Mykola Kondratiuk. They all convey the spirit of the collection – youthfulness, playfulness, inspiration and freedom.
How does the war in Ukraine affect your business?
Despite the unique challenges we face, which many international brands do not face, our commitment to our craft remains undiminished. These challenges range from the lack of reliable air connections, leading to logistical complications, to the ever-present fear of missile attacks. We have endured one of the harshest winters in living memory, marked by severe power outages, and it is likely that the coming winter will bring similar hardships.
It remains of utmost importance for us to maintain our production here in Kyiv, establish and expand our business in this city and contribute as much as possible to our country.
How do you implement sustainable practices in your designs?
We are proud to source our high-quality fabrics from companies that prioritize sustainability by using cutting-edge technologies to monitor and reduce waste and pollution in their production processes. Our commitment to sustainability extends not only to our sourcing of materials, but also to our manufacturing practices.
Our commitment to sustainability is not only limited to the way we produce our fashion, but also to the way we convey our values and how we strive to leave a lasting impression. We strive to create the best working conditions for our employees. Even in difficult times, we consider responsibility, ethics, resilience and consideration for people and the environment as essential principles that we uphold and nurture in the Frolov ethos.
You’ve designed looks for Beyonce, Dua Lipa and Sam Smith – who would you like to dress and why?
We have a new release coming very, very soon and for me personally it’s a dream come true! So I won’t reveal our secret, but just to pique your curiosity, I will say that a world-famous superstar will be wearing Frolov very soon!
What’s next for your brand?
Our main strategy revolves around the global expansion of Frolov, where we want to create a new fashion ecosystem that transcends geographical boundaries. This ambitious vision goes hand in hand with the dream of being present in key regions in Europe, the United States and the Middle East.
However, we must be clear that our primary goal right now is to win Russia’s war against Ukraine. Only when our country is free and safe can we wholeheartedly pursue the dreams and plans we have envisioned for Frolov.
What advice would you give to aspiring fashion designers?
Stay true to your unique vision and persevere even when the world around you seems to be falling apart.
This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.uk. Translated and edited by Simone Preuss.