The Pitti Immagine Uomo trade fair in Milan marks the traditional start of the European men’s fashion ordering season. Then they followed Milan men’s fashion shows
and Paris men’s fashion week. Here are four trends to keep in mind when shopping.
Sport meets street
The latest collections of men’s fashion for resort 23
took up the look that was popular in the 1990s, combining sportswear and streetwear. At Dior Homme, Kim Jones presented a ‘California Couture Collection’ that included a chevron stripe knit top and corduroy trousers, which were paired with skater sneakers and a key chain, just like the ’90s street kids of Orange County years.
‘Dark Goth Surfers’ was the title of Dsquared2’s Resort 23 collection. The Caten twins sported a mix of looks, also influenced by surf, skate and street culture.
At Louis Vuitton, Virgil Abloh’s legacy lived on in the men’s Resort 23 collection. From the first look, a short-sleeved shirt over a cartoon tee with matching pants, a bucket hat and skater sneakers, Abloh’s signature streetwear style was evident. This trend should clearly prevail in men’s fashion for SS23.
Autumn colors in summer
In addition to the inevitable light and pastel tones, brown tones mixed with contrasting colors are the trend for SS23. A recent example from the Resort 23 shows was a darker color palette at Dior Homme. Kim Jones strayed from his ‘So-Cal cool’ pastel palette and sported a slouchy T-shirt with the iconic Dior newspaper print and pants in shades of cream and brown, paired with fuchsia sneakers and a gray and pink ombré ‘sock hat’ that was accented with was sequined.
At Gucci, brown high-waisted pants were paired with a chiffon shirt embroidered with red sequin flowers. The accessories consisted of red sunglasses and two-tone shoes with a contrasting toe.
At Moschino, a look by Jeremy Scott included a geometric print for a windbreaker and matching bag in brown, white, orange and yellow. Tan slacks and yellow mules completed the look.
Double denim
A denim jacket paired with a pair of matching jeans was a popular outfit of the 1980s/1990s, nicknamed the ‘Canadian Tuxedo’. It also formed a striking look during the F/W22 men’s collections and seems to continue into the S/S23 season as well.
For Resort 23, Jeremy Scott sported a jacket and jeans combo for Moschino. The collection featured a racer-style jacket in light blue denim, decorated with stripes and quilted patches.
During his first collection for Kenzo FW22, Nigo took the concept to a whole new level, sporting a look that was layered in dark denim from head to toe.
Soft suits
Contrasting with the precise tailoring of recent seasons, relaxed suiting has recently appeared in several men’s collections. Dries Van Noten went for this look for S/S22.
As does Glenn Martens for Y/Project. For the Resort 23 collection by Dior Homme, Kim Jones presented numerous casual suits in a variety of softly falling materials.
This article was previously published on FashionUnited.uk. Translation and editing: Barbara Russ