In the era of specialization, gastronomy is not left out, on the contrary: there are many proposals that seek to focus on a product, enhance its value and maximize the experience. And just like coffee shops, breweries and wine-bars, grills also find a way to differentiate themselves.
To the delight of carnivores, today we find true “meat restaurants” that ensure the traceability of their cuts, that use special aging or cooking techniques, that take care of every detail of the menu (vegetables and artisanal preparations included) and that They seek to provide a comprehensive proposal where the setting and the service are equally important. Where to go?:
-If we talk about modern concepts, we must highlight to Rufino (Av. Pres. Manuel Quintana 465, Recoleta), a kind of speakeasy in the basement of the boutique hotel My Buenos Aires, whose fires give meat and vegetables equal prominence. The menu designed by Leo Lanussol and Ariel Argomaniz pays homage to traditional Argentine cuisine, but with a twist. “Adding an unexpected detail, a seasoning, a final touch that generates surprise, made us fall in love with the classics again,” confesses Martín Serrano, one of the partners. The menu tempts with a humita with green, feta cheese and spicy tomato sauce; some sweetbreads with cauliflower puree and red cabbage sauerkraut; a center rib cooked for six hours (served in two ribs of 1kg in total); and roasted cauliflower with yogurt, capers and herbs. Its atmosphere is relaxed, but with many details of sophistication. Ideal for a date or to surprise.
-For demanding palates it is Old Pattern (Av. Larrazábal 502, Liniers), managed by one of the 25 meat sommeliers in the country. Julio Gagliano proposes to taste cuts of animals raised in the open field and fed on pasture. “When working with heavy steers of the Aberdeen Angus breed, we find a special flavour, tenderness and juiciness,” he explains. Highlights of his proposal include the entrails, the rib eye and the chorizo steak that he always carries as a flag in the championships of those who participate. These and more cuts can be ordered at the point of preference: almost raw, juicy, ready or well cooked. “We also produce our own artisan chorizo and a Creole sausage with a blend of spices”. To share in ffamily or with friends on your deckits elegant living room or its heated terrace.
-If you want to try really different flavors you can resort to Maiky (Gorriti 5806, Palermo), a Palermo restaurant dedicated to perfecting the smoking technique and applying it to meats, offal and even cocktails. They use chips from fruit trees such as the apple tree (the most subtle and least invasive), the olive tree (the middle ground) and the walnut tree (with the most intense and notorious flavor). Its owner, Andrés Mazer, recommends “starting with the smoked sweetbreads with apple chips, which accentuate their flavor, or with the hickory-smoked chorizo, because pork is one of the best meats to smoke.” As a main, the olive-smoked entrails is “a unique experience” accompanied by mashed potatoes, salad and homemade dips. Among other options there is no shortage of classic ribs, hamburgers and sandwiches.
– For a special outing, the appointment can be in Iron (Bv. del Mirador 220 in Nordelta and Costa Rica 5602 in Palermo) as it fuses several trends in one place: a modern and attractive setting, an interesting wine and cocktail list, an innovative and inclusive menu – with a focus on meats, but also in vegetables and 100% handmade preparations– and Angus Black pieces matured indoors. “This process is different for each cut, seeking to add flavor, tenderness and juiciness,” says the Chef Rodrigo Macchi. The cuts come out of an imposing open grill, cooked with charcoal and red quebracho. The most acclaimed are the ribeye (350gr), the asado banderita, the bone-in chorizo steak (800gr) and the Wagyu ribeye. “You can’t fail to mention the chauchas a la chapa (with portobellos, garlic oil, ground chili and lemon) and the lamb ravioli with smoked cabutia sauce, the house’s flagship”.
–in barn (Olivares 190, Rincón de Milberg, Tigre), the experience is immersive. You arrive at a huge property surrounded by greenery with a large room with a rural setting –but “chic“– where a kitchen is offered that combines a clay oven, pasta fatta in house and an excellent grill. Their meats are from steer and Angus from producers that guarantee their traceability, and they mature for 10 to 15 days in their own chamber so that their fibers are broken and they are much more tender. They are very meticulous with the way of cooking: their premise is to serve everything “ready”, but the diner can also request a bleu point, juicy, cooked or well cooked. And what to order? The board of offal with pure pork chorizo, black pudding, heart gizzards, cured kidneys and cow chitterlings; the ribeye rib eye of 800 grams; the center roast with five ribs and the herb-spiced tenderloin.
-walking around Tigre also stands out Canta El Gallo (Av. de los Lagos 7010, Nordelta Shopping Center) a beautiful country house that serves classic cuts of selected steers and dry-aged pieces. “For dry aging, we use bone-in meats that are hung in a special chamber and rest for 15 to 45 days (depending on their size) in order to concentrate juices and flavors,” says its owner, Francis Pidal. The T Bone It is the house suggestion, a bone-in cut that brings together part of the narrow steak and part of the loin, served with two side dishes of your choice. In turn, they have a special section of pieces per kilo – designed to share – and the vacuum is the absolute star. It is left in brine, cooked over low heat for 4 hours and served with two companions. Due to its large outdoor deck, it is an ideal coordinate for the warm season.
-Another novelty in the city is the opening of gastronomic patios that bring together haute cuisine establishments to eat on the spot and markets to take products Gourmet home. One of them is Gourmand Food Hall (inside the Patio Bullrich), where its Gourmand Grill offers exclusive cuts of Ohra Pampa – from animals raised in the open field and fed naturally – served at the desired point. There is narrow chorizo steak, strip roast, veal entrails and more, but the Tomahawk (1,200 gr) is the cut highlighted by grill chef Rodrigo Sueldo, for its visual impact and its perfect proportion of inter and intramuscular fat. Another great space is bowl (inside the Campo Argentino de Polo) with food & drink stands curated by Narda Lepes, such as Pepe Parrilla al Polo by chef Juan Carlino. It is presented as “a contemporary minute grill” that offers quality offal and Angus & Hereford breed meats cooked at the moment –without pre-cooking– with a good grill and sea salt. To accompany it there are creative garnishes such as the Andean potato salad with wings tail, olive oil and charqui.
by RN
