As customers have an increasing need for long-lasting and sustainable products that embody wellbeing, performance and responsibility, the fashion industry is working on new fabrics that meet the high expectations of consumers. We’ve seen a number of innovations in the collections over the last few years and months, but a bigger change is still needed. The FW 2022/23 season is already emerging as the most innovative season to date. Newly developed fabrics, yarns and various technologies are presented at trade fairs and events. FashionUnited takes a look at the most promising changes for the next winter season.
While it’s true that new technologies are slowly entering the industry, there are some fabrics that have been around longer that have now been revised to be more environmentally friendly. The Première Vision has highlighted the importance of linen in the FW 2022/23 collections – it has many sustainable properties that match what customers are looking for. It is 80 percent manufactured in Western Europe and is free of genetically modified material. Also, linen requires little watering, making it a much more responsible option than cotton. It is valued by designers because it is made from the flax plant and is thermo-regulating, durable and versatile. Tencel will also continue to exist – it’s a simple alternative to cotton that uses much less water and is 50 percent more absorbent.
Brands like Hermès and Stella McCartney also rely on mushroom leather. Brunello Cucinelli has already released boots made from this low-emission material. But proven innovations continue to be used in the FW 2022/23 collections: Stone Island uses Econyl for its outerwear, a recycled material that uses synthetic waste such as fishing nets and plastics. Italian company Aquafil is a pioneer in this area – it recycles and regenerates waste while using less water to produce durable Econyl.
We’ll also see Piñatex, an alternative to leather made from fibers from pineapple leaves, and Parblex, a textured fabric made from McCain’s potato waste that embodies the concept of the circular economy. Mylo, a material imitating leather made from mushroom roots, will also be used for clothing and accessories.
For FW 2022/23, however, some new fabrics are taking the lead. ISPO Textrends award winner ECOSENSOR™ by Asahi Kasei has just launched his collection that combines high performance and technology. With the aim of protecting nature, body and spirit, the company has developed a range of materials that are made from certified ingredients, are traceable and come from a transparent production process and supply chain.
Most of the yarns are certified according to the Global Recycled Standard (GRS) and both the dyeing and finishing techniques have been awarded labels such as Bluesign® and Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX®. Consisting of 36 fabrics that represent a mix of outerwear, sportswear and innerwear, the collections feature Asahi Kasei’s ROICA™ EF, a recycled stretch yarn made from pre-consumer waste, and Asahi Kasei’s Bemberg™, a high-tech yarn -Yarn resulting from the transformation of cotton linters.
The Illuna Group, which specializes in material research and high-tech developments, presented new yarns at Première Vision Paris, which will focus on the theme of responsibility in the FW 2022/23 season. She has expanded the GRS category to include recycled yarns that come in new designs and with unique performances. Featured was the corduroy yarn, which is made from ROICA™ EF Premium Stretch and has a uniquely textured hand.
