In a palm grove north of Baghdad, Iraqi shepherds watch in bewilderment as models parade second-hand clothes on a makeshift catwalk to raise awareness of the fashion industry’s environmental impact.
Haute couture has given way to upcycled outfits and models on the catwalk are strutting around in creations made entirely from second-hand clothing – a sign of the growing popularity of chic, eco-friendly vintage clothing among young Iraqis.
“We don’t want to overproduce clothes, we have to reuse them,” says Mohamed Qassem, 25, a hairdresser and organizer of the fashion show near the village of Al-Hussainiya.
According to the World Resources Institute, the fashion industry was responsible for two percent of global greenhouse gas emissions in 2019.
Campaigns and a growing number of climate-conscious social media influencers have made a push towards sustainable fashion, including many youngsters in climate-stressed Iraq, like Qassem, who are passionate about vintage clothing.
Fluorescent green puffer jackets, long black leather coats, roomy double-breasted blazers and modern takes on traditional attire were all showcased at the event in the palm grove.
In many parts of Iraq marred by decades of conflict, peaceful rhythms are beginning to return to everyday life, and second-hand clothing offers budding fashionistas an affordable way to express themselves.
climate threats
As more and more ‘fast fashion’ and imported brands take to the streets of Baghdad, the outfits at the Al Hussainiya event feature predominantly green elements – a nod to the show’s environmental message.
Synonymous with date production, Iraq is seeing its iconic date palms come under pressure from the effects of climate change and years of conflict.
“The goal is not only to focus on clothes, but also on abandoned orchards and palm trees that are disappearing every day,” says Qassem.
According to the United Nations, oil-rich Iraq is among the five countries most vulnerable to the effects of climate change. It already suffers from extreme summer heat, frequent droughts, desertification, and regular dust storms, all of which will worsen as the planet warms.
The creations presented at the fashion show are not offered for sale. Above all, the organizers hope that the symbolic parade will raise awareness.
Ahmed Taher, a 22-year-old stylist who put together the sets for the runway show, says the second-hand garments are “of excellent quality.” “When you wear them, you have the impression of wearing luxury clothing. It’s different than what you find in stores.”
Business student Taher offers vintage clothing to Baghdad’s hipsters on Instagram – where he has around 47,000 followers – and sells pieces for around US$20. “We want to wear unique clothes and not look like everyone else,” he explains.
Lasts a lifetime
Safaa Haidar, a student-turned-model-for-a-day, says she’s drawn to vintage clothing because it allows her to shop “according to my personality.”
But in Iraq, where the United Nations estimates that almost a third of the 42 million inhabitants live in poverty, many wear second-hand clothes out of necessity.
In the winding lanes of the second-hand clothing market in central Baghdad, stalls overflow with shirts, shoes and jeans every Friday, and shoppers check sizes in full view of sellers.
Here, a shirt can barely cost 2 US dollars (around 1.83 euros), while other pieces are sold for 60 (around 55 euros) or even 200 US dollars (around 183 euros).
Mohamed Ali, a 20-year-old engineering student, came to buy shoes. “It’s not that we can’t afford to buy new ones, but here we find better quality and unique pieces,” he says.
Ali shared his parents’ stories of life in the 1990s, when Western sanctions on Iraq caused them to wear their clothes “to the point of wearing their clothes inside out and until they wore out because they couldn’t afford new ones could”. Today, according to Ali, most of his friends and he buy vintage clothes for their durability and style.
Trader Hassan Refaat, 22, sells imported second-hand clothing that is finding new life in Iraqi wardrobes. He also imports goods from northern Iraq’s autonomous region of Kurdistan, which borders major textile producer Turkey.
“Thrifted clothes are of better quality than the new clothes that are on the market,” he says. “Very often it is branded goods, and the brands last a lifetime.” (AFP)
This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.uk. Translated and edited by Simone Preuss.