Sulla Milan Fashion Week the curtain has officially fallen. Having identified the trends for next season and admired the most anticipated debuts, it is time to take stock, also in terms of size inclusiveness. With the fashion shows dedicated toAutumn-Winter 2024/25the movement of body positivity recorded a sharp slowdown. The proof of this is the number of famous curvy models catwalk present: fewer and fewer. A clear decline compared to the September shows which seems to demonstrate a certain disinterest – especially on the part of the most prestigious and historic fashion houses – towards a pressing topical issue.
The names that symbolize change in fashion have been removed plus sizethe small number of famous curvy models on the Milan catwalks is not good news.
A negative trend
-17%. This is the data, clear and unequivocal, published by Tagwalk, search engine for the fashion industry. Almost 20% fewer models plus size in the shows of the recently concluded Milan Fashion Week, compared to the September edition. There is no shortage of virtuous examples, such as Marco Rambaldi or Febenso the body positivity it adheres perfectly to the inclusive and contemporary vision of the brand. In many cases, however, the presence of a curvy top model is the exception within a cast devoted to traditional beauty of the same size. Among the fashion houses that had at least one curvy model on the catwalk, they stand out Etro, Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini, Ferragamo, Marni, MSGM And Max Mara.
Famous curvy models: is one enough?
Choosing to wear only one plus-size top can be a way to demonstrate your support for the movement body positivity. But it can also become the practical demonstration of how much a “non-conforming” body can express the aesthetics of a fashion house. He is an example of this Paloma Elsesser, perhaps the most famous curvy model of recent years. In Milan Elsesser modeled for Ferragamo And Marni, two fashion houses to which she is linked through her friendship with their respective creative directors, Maximilian Davis and Francesco Risso. In this sense Elsesser represents an exception, being the only size plus size on the catwalk, but its presence is proof of how even a non-sample size can reflect a designer’s vision.
Paloma Elsesser on the Ferragamo FW24/25 catwalk (Spotlight Launchmetrics)
From Etro there were two curvy models, Ajok Daing And Arnelle Slots. From Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini the fifth release was a look plus sizewhile from MSGM oversized coats and coordinated suits enhanced all types of shapes. As Marco Rambaldi And Febenalso the Swedish brand Rave Review relied on a cast of models of all sizes, ethnicities and ages, portraying a varied and eclectic female universe.
Ajok Daing on the Etro FW24/25 catwalk (Spotlight Launchmetrics)
A slow change
That the movement of body positivity it was clear for some time that he was experiencing a moment of stalemate. When last December, for example, the aforementioned Elsesser won the prize of Model of the Year at the Fashion Awards, the hateful comments and insults online were so numerous that the model decided to close her social accounts. Recently interviewed by the American magazine The Cut, Elsesser expressed some frustration in finding herself always being the first (and only) curvy model to achieve goals and victories. Especially when her example doesn’t help open doors to other professionals plus size.
Never before has the fashion industry been called upon to deal with not only aesthetic but also social issues, which range from environmental sustainability to political commitment, without forgetting the queer community. It is therefore physiological that other themes remain in the background, placed at the center of attention for some seasons, completely forgotten for others. Returning happily to old habits.
Waiting for the inclusive vision of sizes and bodies to become the norm and not the exception.
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