TOwrinkles, anti-dark spots, plumping, lifting: the face serum it can have a thousand objectives and purposes, until it becomes the key element of one truly effective skincare routine.
But what is serum, and is it really as essential as cream? We asked the cosmetologist Marilisa Franchini, who just published the book Skincare: truths and myths (Red editions) precisely to answer these doubts.
Face serum vs cream: what are the differences
“On a scientific level, there is actually no real definition that describes what a ‘serum’ is”.
“We could define them as cosmetics with a lighter texture than that of a cream, characterized by a much more marked concentration of active ingredients that allow him to act specifically on various skin problems»The cosmetologist begins to explain, Marilisa Franchini.
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Can the serum replace the cream?
It has therefore been ascertained that its peculiarity lies in the ability to convey more concentrated active ingredients into the skinone wonders if it cannot replace the traditional cream.
“Being normally meant for not to be used alone but before the cream, they can be characterized only by a watery or only fatty part. For this reason it is good to use them in combination with a moisturizer “.
“However, there are also some serums which, as they contain both a watery and greasy part, can also be used alone, especially in summer, on combination or oily skin which, in the heat and humidity, can not stand even the lightest creams”.
Formulas rich in active ingredients for every skin need
Using a face serum therefore allows you to achieve a sort of upgrade for your skincare routine.
«The addition of an intermediate step (such as that of a serum) can prune additional benefits on the skin, which could hardly be obtained with the use of a single product» comments Marilisa Franchini.
“The serums allow formulators to insert a higher number of active ingredients within them which, working in synergy, can improve the appearance of the skin.
Yet this is not the only reason why an ad hoc formulated product can be used: some active ingredients are, for example, really effective only at very high percentagesthat they would hardly find space within a much more structured formula than a cream. Still others require quite extreme pH, very far from those of a normal face cream (a typical example is Ascorbic Acid, the most active form of Vitamin C) ».
How to choose the most suitable face serum
Finding your way around the jungle of offers by opting for the face serum that best suits your needs can be difficult. How can you be sure you are making the right choice for your skin?
“First of all it certainly must work in synergy with the cream that will be applied immediately afterwards and must contain the most suitable active ingredients to solve the problems of our skin. It might be an idea to integrate the own cream with different serums, depending on the time of year, time of day or changing needs.
Retinol for the evening and Vitamin C for waking up
If in winter we can opt for a serum that contains retinolto use the eveningto be combined perhaps with a serum with Vitamin C to apply in the morning, we can instead choose a soothing serum rich in antioxidants in summer, when the skin is stressed by increased exposure to sunlight.
Or again, a serum rich in lipids and substances that restore the skin barrier when the winter cold makes our skin feel much drier.
The essential rule therefore is to start from a careful knowledge of one’s skin and its needs.
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