uabout ten years ago Fabrizio Fiorani, volcanic master pastry chef, has a mother who works around the corner of via Liguria, in Rome. But he, curious and very young, thinks well of leaving the capital for the world by choosing Japanexotic destination, because sugar is sugar everywhere, but textures, proportions, details change, while the taste is refined. Works in Tokyo alongside Heinz Beck and with Bulgari and he stayed there until, in 2019, he was elected best pastry chef in Asia.
Instead of exploiting his rank, Fiorani packs his bags and returns to Italy. First at the Ragusa Cathedral of the starred chef Ciccio Sultanothen with him, in 21, she returned home, or rather to the shop, in the luxury ofHotel W Rome in via Liguria 26practically via Veneto, where Sultano has his Sicilian/Roman restaurant, Janus. But Fabrizio’s mother “protests”: in the meantime, she has retired and rarely comes here.
Fabrizio Fiorani: glamor & design
And here we meet Fabrizio, in this very glamorous hotel which indeed houses the world with a eclectic design which is the New York reworking (the interior is the work of Meyer Davis study) than is expected of one Contemporary Rome: the joy of colors, from antique pinks to blues, the references to classic architectural motifs such as the ubiquitous arch, but in a pop key, even a wink at the Palazzo della Civiltà in Eur (from the windows overlooking the courtyard).
A world of sweetness
The pastel boutique of Fiorani, which is rightly called Sugaris inside and out, interconnected with the revisited Sicilian cuisine of Giano, the restaurant of W Rome where the executive chef Nicola Zamperetti is Sultano’s alter ego (“but when there is less salt and more sugar on Ciccio’s menu, it’s up to me” says the pastry chef with engaging enthusiasm), yet also a mouth-watering showcase, irresistible for passers-by who stop abruptly, continuously, to contemplate the raspberries, the almonds, the peanuts, all amusing designer fakes, made of chocolate. To drink a coffee with accompaniment of citrus scented husband at the “social” table, choose one A little Japanese Venetian given that the very shiny and extra light custard here is prepared « with rice starch and pectin », and maybe have a slice of cake delivered in the box with the logo Ricotta and sour cherries, that of the Ghetto, which however reinvents itself with sour cherries and without gluten, «because working without it is always a challenge». At the end of the chat, and the endless tasting of sweets, Fabrizio gives us Maritozzo’s recipe. Here she is.
The recipe for Maritozzo di Zucchero x Fabrizio Fiorani
Ingredients for 1.5 kg of Maritozzi
(net of whipped cream, with which to fill generously). Consider that the doses are from established pastry shops, in short, think of them for a “breakfast party”. And that the precision of the doses, with a common analogue scale, will not be guaranteed. However, put yourself to the test.
Pre dough:
124 g flour 320 W
6 g brewer’s yeast
124g water.
Dough:
68 g sugar
12g honey
155 g fresh eggs
217 g fresh milk
9 g brewer’s yeast
497 g flour 320 W
93 g extra virgin olive oil
12 g salt
6 g organic orange peel
62g pine nuts
112 g raisins
Plenty of whipped cream
Method:
In a glass bowl mix the first three ingredients with a silicone marisa. Cover with plastic wrap and leave to rise in a warm place for 2 hours. In a stand mixer fitted with a hook, mix the second dose of flour, the eggs, the milk, the second dose of yeast, the sugar, the honey and the orange peel. When the compound begins to form, add the leavened pre-dough. Knead for about 6/7 minutes then gradually add the oil, raisins and pine nuts.
Ferment for 3 hours well covered in a lightly greased boule, then form balls of 50 grams. Place on a tray with a silicone mat and let it rise for an hour. Brush with a mix of equal weights of egg and cream, then bake at 190°C for 7-8 minutes. Leave to cool on a rack. Fill generously with whipped cream.
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