«Genova is like a mother to me. It’s where I learned to live,” he wrote Faber, the nickname that Paolo Villaggio gave to Fabrizio De André, who passed away 25 years ago. Was a absolute love between him and the city, inseparable, viscerala feeling that will be reciprocated by big concert scheduled for the beginning of the summer, it is not yet known whether at the Ferraris stadium in Marassi or in Piazza della Vittoria.
«With his music he was able to bring the world of the most disadvantaged, the marginalized, the prostitutes and the rebels who animated the historic center to the center of attention, even if he was very shy» recalls his friend Tonino Bozzi, of the group of the same name historic Bozzi bookshop in via Cairoli and via S. Siro. «A true poet without being aware of it. He was certainly much loved by all his friends, even if he never played football with us. Our greatest fun was meeting and singing” continues Bozzi.
Fabrizio De André’s last, precious guitar
It all began between the end of the 1950s and the beginning of the 1960s, with a group of young people who lived in the Foce neighbourhood. They wrote lyrics and music out of passion, and thus gave life to what was later defined the Genoese school of singer-songwriters, including Luigi Tenco, Bruno Lauzi, Umberto Bindi, Gino Paoli and De André. Wanting to hypothesize a tour of Genoaon foot or by bicycle (treecycle.eu), dedicated to its songwriters, primarily Faber, we could start from the legendary via del Campo, made famous by the song of the same name released in his first album Vol. 1 from 1967.
It is in this alley a stop in Viadelcampo29rosso, the museum space, is a must (where Giovanni Tassio’s historic record shop was) full of memorabilia of the songwriting, original vinyls, photos and authentic treasures, such as the Esteve ’97, one of De André’s guitars, who accompanied him on his last tour 1997/1998. The soul of this outpost of singer-songwriter music is Laura Monferdini, author of the book Word of Faber. Speeches on tour by Fabrizio De André (Arcana), in which he talks about his 23 years of concerts. Every month here they organize a two-hour tour of the places that inspired him (by reservation: 010.2474064, 12 euros).
Among the stages of the singer-songwriter itinerary there is Piazza dell’Agnello, home to the ancient residence of the Cicala family, where a plaque mentions Lanfranco Cicala, consul and poet. Delving deeper into the history of the family, De André discovers Scipione Cicala’s military role in the Ottoman Empire and tells it in the song Sinàn Capudàn Pasha in the album Crêuza de mä (1984). The itinerary passes via via al Mare Fabrizio De André, between the Biosphere and the Aquarium, under which the new City of Children and Teens has reopened (cittadeibambini.net) dedicated to the discovery of the five senses, then Piazza Banchi and the Loggia della Mercanzia, where the City Museum is about to open. The tour ends in front of the Romeo Viganotti chocolate shop, in Vico Castagna.
The beach of Boccadasse, a seaside village in Genoa.
Fried small fish in notes
The flavors and aromas of Genoese cuisine also belong to De André’s poetic world. The opportunity to take a break is to try some of the dishes praised in Crêuza de mämoving on to Antica Friggitoria Carega (via Sottoripa, 113r, in front of the Porto Antico marina) for “things to eat fried pigneu giancu de Purtufin“, that is, fried small fish, white Portofino. To the historian shamadda (between the fryer’s and the bakery) Sà Pesta, in via dei Giustiniani, you can taste the classic Genoese green cakes, with chard and prescinsêua, (a typical curd from Genoa halfway between yoghurt and ricotta), the legendary farinata described in Mégu megúnand the stuffed top reported in the song ‘Â çimma.
Palazzo Rosso, house-museum with art collections and historical furnishings.
Genoa, the city of the Doges and that of the people
Genoa is the city of contrasts, of the Rolli (the superb noble palaces, palazzideirolli.it) next to the maze of alleys «where the sun of the good God/does not give its rays» (The old Town). And where it happens that poor fish becomes an ingredient of haute cuisine at Il Marin (at Eataly in Calata Cattaneo) thanks to chef Marco Visciola, who has just received the Michelin star. The great early summer concert for De André is not (only) nostalgia for an unrepeatable musical season and for a Genoa “photographed” by the singer-songwriter’s memories. Young people know his songs, the same ones their parents listened to, and they sing them with their peers.
Portrait of Fabrizio De André in via del Campo, Genoa.
A curiosity: Faber’s vintage vinyls play on designer turntables in a sumptuous showroom in one of the Rolli buildings: the concept store Via Garibaldi 12 (viagaribaldi12.com), mecca for lovers of trendy objects. Towards the sea, in the Foce area (mentioned by Faber in Anchovies make the ball), the Levante Waterfront is being born (waterfrontdilevante.com), the futuristic residential project designed by Renzo Piano.
The Anita Garibaldi walk, in Nervi.
Fabrizio De André’s Genoa: on the benches of songwriters
After passing the gardens of via Cecchi with the benches dedicated to the singer-songwriters who frequented the Cinema Aurora, now Teatro Instabile, you arrive in Corso Italia, the seafront. Here it is pleasant to take the cycle path parallel to the sea up to Boccadasse, passing in front of buildings in different styles, from Coppedè to the 70s buildings, such as the rounded one at number 22, while at number 10, for a short period, Fabrizio De André lived.
You pass the Baretto di Albaro, a meeting place for the Genoese elite, once frequented by the singer-songwriter’s clique, the Bagni Lido, and then, after the Belvedere Firpo, go down the brick road of Via Aurora which leads to Piazza Nettuno in Boccadasse. Opposite is the red building with a beautiful terrace, where Gino Paoli lived together with Ciacola, the cat to whom he dedicated the 1960 song of the same name. Here it was easy to meet Paolo Villaggio, perhaps while going to the Amedeo ice cream shop. Along the sea, pass Priaruggia, Quarto and the monument of the Thousand, and Quinto, you arrive to the small port of Nervi where you take the Anita Garibaldi promenade overlooked by pastel-coloured houses and the parks of Nervi. In Capolungo, take Via Bonanno to arrive at the former Sant’Ilario station, now a private home, where De André imagined Bocca di Rosa got off “and everyone realized with a glance / that it wasn’t a missionary”.
The room dedicated to the view of the City of Children and Teens.
Where to sleep in Genoa
Le Nuvole period residence
Piazza delle Vigne 6. Charming hotel on the main floor (the fourth) of Palazzo Lamba Doria, in the Maddalena district, one of the sestieri of the historic center. Double room from 120 euros. hotellenuvole.it
Palazzo Durazzo Suites
Via del Campo 12. Twelve suites (one dedicated to De André) different from each other, with eighteenth-century frescoes, in a sixteenth-century Rolli palace: these are palaces chosen by the Maggior Consiglio, in 1576, to welcome illustrious guests of the Republic. The atrium preludes the sumptuousness of the rooms. Suite from 300 euros. palazzodurazzo.com
Where to eat
Crunchy Village
Piazza Nettuno, Boccadasse. In front of the pebble beach of Boccadasse they stuff the freshly baked focaccia with cured meats and cheeses of quality, the platter served as an aperitif with still wines or local sparkling wines, such as Lumassina, is also valid.
Il Genovese restaurant
Via Galata 35R. A place where you can taste traditional dishes, from pesto served in various variations, gnocchi, trofie, trenette minestrone to ravioli with tuccu made from Cabannina cow meat, stockfish and cod and finally local cheeses. Excellent selection of local wines. ilgenovese.com
Ostaietta
Via Canevari 280R. Small environment, welcoming that recalls the old Genoese taverns. Excellent fish and good value for money.
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